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Bangkok and the final journey

6 April 2016 / admin

Saturday 2 April – Tuesday 5 April 2016

We arrive in Bangkok in the dark in the early hours of Saturday morning. Huge metropolis and you can but hope that the taxi driver is going to the right place. Book in and tumble into bed. That will not really help with the time changes – Sydney was a bit of an anomaly! Auckland is 11 hours ahead of the UK, Sydney is 9 hours ahead of the UK whilst Bangkok is 6 hours ahead. So in one day we have moved 5 hours – which is similar to the UK to New York difference.

So well into Saturday morning we rise for breakfast. After such a busy period we had predetermined that we were not doing much today, so retired to the sun deck and pool – which is way up in the sky. Had a couple of swims. It is hot and humid. We are staying at the Centara Grand at Central World which surprisingly is in the centre of the city.

In the evening we went into the adjacent shopping centre and wandered around looking at the various restaurants eventually settling on one where you effectively cook your own dinner. All the ingredients were fresh and it was quite tasty.

Sunday we had booked a half day tour in the afternoon but had a free morning. So we took the Skytrain from adjacent to our hotel to one end of the line at Mo Chit – which is adjacent to an absolutely huge market. We walked along to the market but could only investigate a small portion before feeling overcome with the heat. As the Skytrain is air-conditioned Jackie agreed to continue riding the Skytrain, so we returned to Siam, briefly visited the National Stadium and we then went to Bang Wa and watched the train reverse.

The Skytrain photos can be found here.

In the afternoon our guided tour took us to the Palace – which was absolutely heaving. We were meant to go for a river cruise – but the transition to the boat was looking dangerous and so we aid we could not do it, signed a disclaimer for the guide and he took us to the reclining Buddha instead. Many, many photos from this afternoon can be found here.

In the evening we dined in the restaurant on the roof of the hotel. When we arrived I asked for the music to be turned down so that I had a chance of hearing Jackie talk. On the other tables the other diners were by and large consulting their phones rather than each other – no doubt driven that way by the usual volume of the music.

The Monday comes around all too quickly. We have another couple of hours in the sun before we finish our packing and get ready for the long flight back.

We leave Bangkok in the middle of Monday initially for Dubai where this time we have time in the lounge in the early hours of the morning. Food is on offer in the lounge but it does not match our body clocks in any shape or form! Wifi working so pick up some more downloads.

Roll into Heathrow at breakfast time and find our taxi driver. Then the longest delay of the entire trip – the M3 is rock solid just after we join it and we are stuck for a good hour before coming off at J3 and come round via Frimley Hospital. Apparently the M3 was flooded between 3 and 4 so if we had stayed on we might have returned sooner. We have ended our longest and probably most expensive holiday ever.

Auckland and Homeward

3 April 2016 / admin

Thursday 31 March and Friday 1 April 2016

Our holiday is heading towards an end, but we have a long way to go yet in terms of mileage!

On the Thursday we took one of the gentler options this morning – a harbour tour which took us out past a lighthouse, Brown’s island; then along past the Rangitoto Island Scenic Reserve and then past Devonport which is on the opposite side of the harbour. We then pass briefly under the Auckland Harbour bridge before returning to port.

Some of the photos seem to be wrongly dated 30 March 216 – which I do not understand as it was definitely the Thursday. Tracking back dates to prove this has not been easy. As ever the right sequence is justified by Jackie’s posts on Facebook which are of course incontrovertible.

Having returned to land we wander up into the shopping area. It is really hot this afternoon. Jackie had seen some shoes as we passed through Sydney airport and was rather hoping to track down the same brand in New Zealand – but we did not manage it.

Farewell dinner this evening and the entire party comes together for a final time. Onward journies are complex. Some remain in NZ to visit family. Others will be with us to Sydney – but then will go to see family in Australia. Others are stopping off in Dubai on the return journey, we, I think uniquely, are stopping in Bangkok.

A fine old evening – although some moving around to avoid sitting to close to Stevie as she is not liked by various people. Perhaps not as good as the group in India but generally we have had a good time together.

The following morning (Friday) we are all drifting through breakfast and then awaiting our separate departure times. We are one of the last groups to depart so have some time in the lounge area of the hotel awaiting our taxi.

First flight is the hop over to Sydney once again. And a meander between terminals for our flight to Bangkok. Back in business class, so at least it is comfortable.

On a holiday of this length and with limited wifi accessing the pc in the UK and getting downloads of the various music programmes would seem a magical thing to do maybe 10 years ago; now it is almost second nature!

North Island and Rotorua

1 April 2016 / admin

Monday 28 March to Wednesday 30 March 2016

A short coach journey this morning to the airport and then we fly to North Island – Auckland. However we are not going into Auckland just yet. Onto another coach and we are off to Rotorua.

The countryside here is very different to South Island. This could easily be rolling Derbyshire or Nottinghamshire rather than the majestic beauty of a magnified Scotland. Rolling green countryside; an awful lot of cows being farmed in the “New Zealand” style with large numbers in small paddocks. I can easily imagine why the early English settlers felt so at home.

Rotorua again attracts huge numbers of tourists and has many activities available. We believe it is called the “Outdoor capital of New Zealand”.

We wander into the relatively newly built town centre and choose a restaurant, although the quality here is not as good as we enjoyed on South Island.

Our main activity on Tuesday is to go rail cruising. We are taken to a former railway station, Mamaku on the now closed line to Rotarua. I can find no proof of this but the line was I believe 3′ 6″ and I am pretty sure the gauge remains unaltered.

Here we split into groups of four and join our rail cruiser – a four wheel, four seater buggy and the individual cars are set off every few minutes – we were the last and did not see the others until we reached the end of the line at Tarukenga. The powered buggies are petrol-electric hybrids

The outbound journey is at no more than 20 kmph and is largely downhill and so gravity assists the battery power as we descend. There is an audio description of the history of our surroundings – initially farmland but over a longish section some ancient forest which predates the settlers which came here. We are advised that there should be no need to use the brake unless we see another vehicle stopped in front of us or another obstruction and one of our number is officially the “Brake man”. Inevitably the outward trip is trouble free as we are the last buggy to depart. The downhill journey is actually peaceful as there are no motors and it is a warm and pleasant morning.

At Tarukenga there is a small turntable and the cars are turned and the petrol engine started. Then in the same cars and same order we return to Mamaku. The return distance is 19km. There are no level crossings (and little sign of habitation) along much of the route and the cars carry on board sensing equipment to detect other cars nearby presumably via GPS and mobile signals. There is also a radio connection to base in the event of a problem and we do hear a couple of messages. This is a little noisier and there is a need to apply the brake to park the vehicle on return. The uphill journey uses the engine to recharge the battery ahead of the next downhill trip.

A somewhat different approach to using an old railways and with powered vehicles like this it may be unique. In France I have read about using specially adapted cycles which have two wheels on one rail and a third on the other rail – but nothing like this. I understand there were some technical challenges as the petrol – battery hybrid is unique and I note that some vehicles are badged as 3000 and some as 3100 – implying development have been made.

There are plans to offer some form of operation in Rotorua itself in the future but at the time of our visit these did not appear to have come to fruition and there was no obvious sign when we passed what I think was the end of the line.

Certainly the outward downhill journey is very quiet. The steep gradient suffered a couple of serious runaways during its active life. Today certainly felt very safe.

The photo collection is linked here.

Back to Rotorua and for me one of the highlights. From a long time ago I have a memory of a television programme featuring the hot springs at Rotorua – Blue Peter maybe? Anyway these hot spring baths are very close to our hotel and we walk across to them.

Pools are 38 deg C to 41 deg C and we spend a little time in each. We have been getting in and out of aeroplanes, coaches, strange beds and so on for nearly a month and it is noticeable how for some days after this (relatively brief) exposure to the waters the aches (especially in my fingers for example) appear to have been washed away. It does indeed feel magical.

This evening it is time for a trip out to a traditional Maori evening, in a village. They demonstrate their traditional ways – but certainly these Maoris do not live like that I would say. Sadly the photos here suffer from a lack of light!

We are all taught the haka and allegedly our dinner has been cooked in the traditional manner – Hangi. A huge pit is dug and the stones at the bottom are raised to a good temperature and then baskets of food are places above the stones and then covered over trapping the heat, cooking the food slowly.

This is followed by a short show telling one of the traditional Maori stories.

And time for bed!

Wednesday shows us retracing our steps – this time into Auckland itself by coach.

On the way we pass a hobbit house – one reason to return to NZ would be to visit some of the Lord of the Rings / The Hobbit locations – there seem to be trips to various filming locations used in the films in many of the places we have stopped.

For lunch we stop on a true dairy farm and we are told about the “New Zealand” farming method of cows – before promptly setting down to eat (in some glorious weather, so we are outdoors for once) local produce. All very tasty. Due to age the farmer has now sold most of his land and retains the farmhouse and the facilities developed for visitors like us and for use for weddings and other events.

Our onward trip includes a service station shop and Jackie uses it as a shopping opportunity for a wool wrap.

Auckland, the capital has about 1m people (out of a total in NZ of 7m) and we are told the traffic jams can be pretty awful although as we arrive in mid-late afternoon it seems a quite normal city, with our progress being reasonable. Our hotel is in reconstructed docklands in a very modern setting.

In the evening we wander out – being close to regenerated dockland there is actually quite a bit of choice – although the “trams” are not running due to the building work. Eventually we choose a restaurant on the far side where we enjoy a good meal again outdoors.

Milford Sound Excursion

28 March 2016 / admin

Saturday 26 March 2016

We have a longish drive this morning through some of the beautiful South Island scenery from Queenstown to Milford Sound. On a map it does not seem quite so far away – but the route is far from direct as we head along the eastern shore of Lake Wakapitu.

On the way there we stop at Eglinton Valley, then Mirror Lakes and later at the Chasm amongst some of that wonderful scenery.

Milford Sound is a long distance from holiday accommodation so coach firms for travellers have to carefully plan their arrival times as facilities are limited. I suspect there is a limit how early the coach can arrive before the boat departs.

We see some seals basking on rocks towards the end of the journey and pass waterfalls but wildlife is perhaps not as visible today as it is on other days. However the entire area is very wonderful; somehow I do not think the photographs do it justice.

The photographs of the journey and Milford Sound can be found here.

The drive back to Queenstown certainly leads to my usual sleep – but as we near our destination there is again some great views. It all feels like Scotland, but with a magnifier applied to make it all much larger.

Dinner this evening is another highlight. Roaring Meg’s is a recreation of a much earlier establishment which has been lost in the redevelopment of Queenstown but has the internal fittings of the original. The food is very good – probably the second best meal of the trip. As an example here is our lamb:

Food photographs from https://www.facebook.com/jackie.whitbread.3

Roaring Meg and Gentle Annie were allegedly two prostitutes who ran competing houses for the locals in the Nineteenth century. Roaring Meg was allegedly the quiet one whilst Gentle Annie was far more raucous! I bet the food is better today – a Swiss chef is in charge.

A very long and tiring day. But very wonderful.

Visit to a Station – with no trains

28 March 2016 / admin

Sunday 27 March 2016

Treading the waters of Lake Wakapitu is TSS Earnshaw a 1912 built coal fired twin-screw steam ship. She is now the only working coal-fired ship on Lloyd’s Register. She was initially constructed in a shipyard in Dunedin and once built she was disassembled, the pieces brought by roadto the lake edge and then reconstructed in Kingston at the south end of the lake.

There were other vessels on the Lake in earlier days but this is the only one left and it was saved in 1969 through being leased by a holiday company and transferring from providing essential services and connections around the lake to a holiday attraction – one of the oldest in Otago. The need for regular services lessened as off road transport improved!

Now entirely owned by a holiday company she takes people (at least on the day we were there) to and from Walter Peak High Country Farm which is a prodigious operation to handle up to 389 passengers which the steamer can carry. She has carried Royalty and has appeared in Indiana Jones and Kingdom of the Crystal Skull masquerading as an Amazon steam boat.

Passengers can also inspect the steam engines at work. And the stokers. That is hot work. The journey is of the order of 10km and takes over an hour. As we disembark earlier travellers are waiting to board to return to Queenstown – they started very early!

Our destination is Walter Peak which is to the west of Queenstown but on the southern shore. Once ashore we partake of a buffet lunch with the meat having barbecued. It is well laid out and organised and indeed tasty.

After lunch we have a demonstration of some sheep herding followed by the shearing of a sheep to give us some idea of what this farm (or station) does for real revenue. The size of the station is hard to believe but cannot be done on foot alone – the distances are too great. So quad bikes and a helicopter can be used to move people and the inevitable dogs around to move the sheep.

Photos of the TSS Earnshaw and the sheep station are here.

Our return journey on the TSS Earnshaw is balanced by more arriving for afternoon tea. A piano player leads a sing song on our return journey and song sheets have been distributed. A pleasant day.

Dinner in a local restaurant. Time to move on in the morning.

Through South Island to Queenstown

26 March 2016 / admin

Thursday 24 and Friday 25 March 2016

I am not overly keen on coach travel and often spend much of my time on coaches asleep and today is not greatly different from the norm!

However what has been exercising the tour party today are rumours about our next overnight stay.

On the way south we stop at Hokitika for a lunch break taken at a Jade Factory – the shop is a busy place. There is a camera shop “Photo Corner” at the far end of the town and after a bit of a hunt around I manage to buy a cable for the Canon camera which I had not packed and which they were unable to sell me in a camera shop near Melbourne. So this is a real one up for New Zealand. Well done Photo Corner!

Anyway the rumours continue of flooding at our overnight stop and with poor mobile signals our poor guide is having trouble establishing the facts.

We started the drive in the highlands and then spend the rest of the morning travelling along more or less at sea level with the sea off to our right. In the afternoon the scenery changes and we are travelling through a tropical rainforest. Rainfall levels in this area are very high as the weather comes in from the west and the rain is dumped as the clouds meet the mountains – just like those geography lessons 50 years ago!

However it seems that the staff accommodation at our planned destination has been flooded (all down to heavy rain) so that it cannot take us. A very acceptable alternative is found at the Te Waonui Forest Retreat in Franz Josef, not far from the glacier. After a longish day of travel we decide to wander out to eat at the Indian restaurant along the road we had spotted as we drove into town. Due to the rain we cannot walk to the glacier as the route is treacherous. We do get a good sight of it from the road in the morning. In the light of the rumours we are glad to have somewhere to lay our heads. We have done nothing all day – but still feel tired!

Come the morning it is time for our onward journey to Queenstown. The good news is that the weather has started looking better and we can almost feel the sunshine coming on. As we travel we also see evidence of the reason for the country’s other name as we see evidence of the “long white cloud” hanging at a lower level through the hills. Hopefully some of the photographs here will demonstrate that there is a good reason for the name.

Queenstown is on Lake Wakatipu – actually alongside the Frankton arm (or inlet). However on the opposite side of the lake are some mountain peaks known as “The Remarkables”. We have driven through some very thinly populated areas and Queenstown is not large – but is very clearly thriving.

Rail to Arthur’s Pass

25 March 2016 / admin

Thursday 24 March 2016

This is the NZ Trans Alpine train which we take from Christchurch to Arthur’s Pass.

There is an open coach in the consist – so no glass to get in the way of the cold which soon permeates through if you spend too long in there! It is a grey day and as the hills rise it is hard going for the two locos.

Wikipedia says “The trip is considered one of the world’s great train journeys for the scenery and views.” I hope the photographs here give some idea of the scenery – I bet it looks much better on a bright sunny day. The rail line continues to Greymouth on the west of South Island but we are heading south from here and so join our coach for the continuing journey through South Island.

Christchurch

24 March 2016 / admin

Tuesday 22 to Wednesday 23 March 2016

On the Tuesday morning it is off to the airport and then across the water to New Zealand. We are flying direct to Christchurch on South Island.

The recent history of Christchurch is dominated by the 2011 earthquake. This decimated the centre of the city although as we drive through the suburbs these seem to be largely unimpacted – although no doubt damage was done. For several years the centre was effectively a “no-go” area and the opportunity has been taken to rebuild all of the underground services before redeveloping using techniques which should limit damage in the event of another quake. The worst damage and loss of life was in one office block which had supposedly been constructed to withstand such quakes – but it has later been found that many corners were cut.

Having been empty it is going to take time for the city to return to normal. Businesses moved away and getting them back is no doubt an uphill task. Hard work is being put into getting restaurants and catering facilities open and trading to ensure it looks attractive to employees visiting the area.

Of course instability of some damaged buildings remains so sites are shored up and many walls have been covered with a variety of artistry so that they are less stark reminders of events. The initial shopping area was achieved by using a lot of shipping containers. There are also a variety of other attractions – a basic tramway system and also a variety of sculptures.

The most arresting installation are 185 empty white chairs close to the point of the worst devastation. 185 died and the chairs are intended to represent the individuals, so there are high chairs for children and easy chairs for older people and so on. We were told that there would eventually be a more permanent memorial to the losses but this was particularly poignant.

The photos from the bus tour can be found here.

Parts of Christchurch are now permanently pedestrianised and work is progressing in enhancing the local area along the river. We then went around the town on the local tram – a limited service was running due to the road works but we see more of the decorated walls and also some cute “sheep” which act as blocks to prevent road traffic extending into the quieter areas.

Among the facts we learned is that New Zealand was the first country to give votes to women – achieved in 1893; most countries did noting until after 1918. It is also clear that the Maori population has been treated far better than the indigenous populations in other countries – they were granted property rights in 1840 and were respected by the European settlers. Those organising the settlers were not dependent on prisoners (eg Australia) or slaves (USA) – they were trying to build communities and sought to bring all the skills to the country. So from the outset the people who came were perhaps willing to experiment, to try new ideas and pursue an honest life. And whilst I have often heard descriptions of the country being England but set in the past it strikes me over the next few days that we see a very modern country.

Photographs of that tram tour can be found here.

In the evening we have what probably turns out to be the best meal of the trip in Australia and New Zealand. We found, almost by accident a restaurant called 27 Steps.

http://www.twentysevensteps.co.nz/

The ground floor entrance is not overly prepossessing – but take the stairs to the first floor! Nice room, warm welcome and excellent meal.

I had some very nice tongue:

Followed by the venison:

And then the cheese of course:

Food photographs from https://www.facebook.com/jackie.whitbread.3

Plus earlier we had visited a small bar and I had some whisky. A very nice place, pity it is so far from home.

Sydney

23 March 2016 / admin

Saturday 19 to Monday 21 March

Sydney was the first point of landing by the British and is the world’s most magnificent harbour. It is dominated by two iconic pieces of engineering and construction – the Harbour Bridge and the more recent Opera House. Our time here is a little limited in relation to the size of the city and throughout this part of our journey the rain feels almost incessant. Rain at this time of year in this part of Australia we discover is not uncommon as it often interferes with some open air performances which are planned for Autumn – so this might have been predicted.

We arrive in the late afternoon and the coach rapidly manages the journey into the City Centre to a Sofitel which is just walking distance to Circular Quay, which is where we head a little later to wander along and to take in the two iconic landmarks previously mentioned. Walking back along the Quay we note a number of people eating at Searock where we eat as well; some excellent starters – chilli prawns and crab on tostada; simpler main courses – Wagyu beef burger for me and some salmon for Jackie. Then back up the hill to the hotel.

The following day is not too bright but we decide to risk the two bus tours to see as much of the City as possible – first to Bondi which on a coldish day does not seem quite as welcoming as I am sure it does on a bright sunny day. There are a few people in the surf but like the similar Melbourne suburbs seen previously it does look a little run down. The bay itself is not large; somehow I had always imagined miles of sand but in reality there is probably a bigger beach at Bournemouth. The return journey passes through some more attractive places, Rose Bay, Double Bay and Wooloomooloo (I hope I have spelt that correctly) where the old “Finger Wharves” have undergone much work and now appear to house a great selection of restaurants. Once back in the City Centre we switch back to the other tour to see the city itself. (we had used it briefly to get to the Bondi service from the hotel). Our progress is slow due to the time spent waiting for buses at one point or another and towards the end of our journey we get a little wet as the rain arrives, so we retire to the hotel.

Here are photos of the bus tour.

It brightens briefly but by the time we head out for the evening cruise with Captain Cook Tours it is not looking so good and our trip round the harbour hardly allows any sights to be seen as the rain buckets down. A good supply of wine does enable a cheerful evening to proceed and our table seems to lead the noise generating activities. The Harbour Bridge looks severely distorted through the windows and others go to lengths to take photos of the Bridge.

Monday comes and there is little improvement in the weather as we wander back down to the Opera House for our formal tour of the building. Designed in the late fifties built in the sixties it opened in 1973. In some respects therefore it is noticeably not modern with a lack of lifts. It also took much longer and cost a lot more than originally anticipated. We are shown into the newer area that has been developed partially underneath the two original main auditoria as part of more recent developments and also into the two main halls. These are separate structures from the external sails but throughout there is a harmony of design and careful thought to make the buildings as sympathetic to productions and to be associated with the external harbour. Our tour guide is clearly keen on the building and the productions and makes a great impression on all of us. The shape of the sails are derived from sections of a sphere and they are not cleaned; rainwater does the job and channels the water into built in drains which take the water down into the harbour.

Photographs for the visit are here

Lunch in the food court area is luckily under cover as the rain pours down only easing a little towards the end of the afternoon when we head out to go and find the area known as “The Rocks” which is past the end of Circular Quay. This area has been restored from being extremely run down to an area of restaurants and shops on a some steeply inclined hills. Although better visited at the weekend when there are also small markets there is clearly a vibrancy no doubt achieved by being immediately adjacent to the point at which the major liners dock when visiting the port and, due to their size, are unable to pass below the Harbour Bridge. The approach to construction is very similar to Devon and Cornwall with steps up to front doors from the street with the next house being built further up or down the slope as appropriate. And there is a German Oompah band playing outside “Munich” where the staff are suitably attired for a German bier Keller.

This evening we are due to meet Graham and Lorna in the Bar Blu on 36th floor of the Shangrila Hotel – their suggestion and this provides an absolutely stunning view over the City and of course of the harbour area. We then go on to dinner at the Customs House on the fifth floor, under cover but with a feeling of the open air. Again a great view of the Bridge and the best food of the holiday – another chance for a Moreton Bay Bugs and then some salmon in a light tandoori sauce.

Photographs from the viewing point are here.

We are so late back to the hotel that the front door is locked and gaining entrance takes a couple of minutes. A short night ensues.

Uluru

20 March 2016 / admin

Friday 18 and Saturday 19 March 2016

So a Qantas hop to Uluru which is really in the middle of nowhere, as well as the middle of Australia! And when we arrive the sun is shining and the obvious place to go whilst we wait for our room to become available is the pool. Watches change this time by only 30 minutes. I am not sure I understand Australian time management. Apparently and a little unusually for this part of Australia it had rained overnight so the outdoor seats are generally wet and when Jackie tries to inspect one cushion she is completely unnerved by the sight of a cockroach scuttling away. And there are insects everywhere and they are not small either! We decide to head back indoors and find a seat to wait until the rooms are ready.

Qantas by the way originally stood for Queensland and Northern Territory Aerial Services, although the airline has been through many subsequent mergers and changes. But at least it explains missing “U”.

Once the room is ready we then spend the early part of the afternoon there having a bit of sleep to catch up on the sleep lost the previous night.

Late afternoon and we board the coach to visit the “Sounds of Silence”. Effectively a buffet dinner in the desert, so we can watch the sunset on both Uluru and Kata Tjuta. As the sky is not completely clear there are also some clouds to add some different aspects to the surroundings. The infamous fly nets on our hats are needed by most (but not all) until sundown at which time the need largely disappears. Some people seem unbothered by flies; whilst others are under constant attack.

Uluru we are later told is where the female Aboriginal Australians tend to gather for their purposes. Kata Tjuta is for the males of the species – and it is not perhaps as spectacular for the visitors such as ourselves and indeed perhaps the Aboriginal Australians were able to maintain better control of it.

Once the sun has set it is time for dinner, a performance by Aboriginal Australian dancers and a talk of some of the stars. We do manage to see the entire Southern Cross but little else. However the food is good and well prepared – and all is helped along by good quantities of alcohol. Jackie raises the subject of myrtle with the chef which is used in several dishes and he also shows her a picture of a quandoo. (No I have no idea either). Myrtle has a strong aniseed flavour.

The photographs that evening are linked here.

Throughout the evening there have been flashes of lightning in the far distance on the horizon to the north west and these are becoming more frequent, so the evening is brought to a quick end by recall of the coaches and a return to the hotel.

A very early start in the morning is arranged to take us to a viewing spot for sunrise. Over the last 30 years since the historical significance of the site was properly acknowledged the camping and semi-residential sites adjacent to the rock have been moved a considerable distance away and access is generally far more limited. We also visit a waterhole and adjacent cave with painting, drive around the rock and visit the cultural centre. The Aboriginal Australians do not reveal their stories to non-tribe members and consequently there is little of the culture which can be told – the most seems to be a story told by the tribe to children and non-tribe members can be told that story. The secrets are maintained.

Whilst there is one point at which it is still possible to walk up the rock, our guide is of the view that slowly such access will be eroded by various limits and probably will become closed within a few years. Whilst it was not cold when we woke up it is soon getting a lot warmer.

We circumnavigate the entire Rock. I would say there is a special feeling about the place and it must be a good thing that the former camp and small town immediately adjacent to the Rock have been removed to a distance. No doubt the walk up the Rock will be closed within a few years – already the numbers climbing are only a small proportion of the overall visitors.

And the morning photographs are here.

Once back at the hotel we secure our cases and place them outside our room. Only now do we finally get breakfast and I have to hand it to the team – probably the best breakfast underpinned by an excellent omelette. And a couple of pieces of fruit in the hand luggage as we are travelling JetStar next – the local no-frills operator. Despite the weight limits no-one appears to be charged for being over weight. Apparently Jet Star is owned by Qantas so I am not sure why we do not get air miles for this leg.

Jackie and I have the benefit of a row of three seats for the two of us and we both manage to recover some of our lost sleep before we are flying over the suburbs of Sydney for the next stop on this journey.