Travels with my Wife

Holidays and Other Excursions

La Gomera 2.1.26 – 9.1.26

Mount Teide Tenerife 9.1.26

Mount Teide Tenerife 9.1.26

Unusually this is a second consecutive foreign holiday (ignoring the short excursions to Cornwall and Brighton) where we intend to do very little.  La Gomera is an island situated a little way away from Tenerife and it was visible from Playa San Juan when we stayed there some 20+ years ago.  In those days the ferry sailed across from Playa San Juan to the island but these days the ferry link is to and from Los Christianos.  We are travelling with Tui and our destination is Hotel Jardin Tecina which is situated above the small town of Playa Santiago on the south coast of the island.

The outward journey requires an early start to Gatwick and the usual wait at the airport.  A decent flight down to Tenerife South airport, passing Mount Teide on our way) and then a coach to the Los Christianos port where there is a lack of information.  We follow others obtaining tickets from Armas ferry – which is awaiting departure.  We hand cases over to white van man and have to hope they will be at the other end.  50 minutes later we are on the island and further guesswork is needed to reach the terminal building where we are re-united with our cases.

Volcán de Teno Ferry 9.1.26

Volcán de Teno Ferry 9.1.26

A minibus and trailer are then loaded and a fifty minute run along the mountain tops enables arrival at our destination.

The hotel has a number of restaurants and the second best meal of the week is in La Tasca which has friendly staff and good service.

Hotel Jardin Tecina 10.1.26

Hotel Jardin Tecina 10.1.26

Our daytimes – when the weather permits – which is most days I can report were spent on one of the Bali beds adjacent to the pool area outside our room.

Our room is a slight understatement.  The ground floor has a bedroom and bathroom and opens onto the beds surrounding the pool area.  On the floor above is a lounge area (both are equipped with televisions) where typically we take lunch and a toilet plus a “front” door which opens to the main path at the front.  Up another flight of stairs there is a large circular bed – if the Bali beds were being used this might be a nice alternative but we did not use it during our stay.

On the second evening we negotiated our way down the steps, lift and more steps to sea level.  If it seemed a long way down it seemed further when going up later!  We wander around the town – quiet but we eat as early as we can in Kuffs which was notable for some excellent prawns.

Cave and carrier basket 11.1.26

Cave and carrier basket 11.1.26

Come Sunday evening we had the most wonderful experience in The Cave.  We are escorted up the steps to a remote (but warm) cave and the waiter takes an order for alcohol as the menu is largely fixed.  He then vanishes and to a timetable they have a “zip wire” type cage which brings the food up from the kitchen and into which we load the plates after each course.  It is probably the best meal of the week with some superb veal as the main course.  Veal simply does not get served enough in the UK but is on just about every menu here.  The cave contains a bed – but we are unable to avail ourselves of its comforts as we find we are both in need of the toilets after completing the meal – which requires descent back to the facilities – not by zip wire for us – we have to use the steps.

Bed in a cave 11.1.26

Bed in a cave 11.1.26

The hotel does not seem exceptionally busy – we have no trouble finding a table outside at breakfast (there are two restaurants serving breakfast – La Gara has a large outside area) so it consumes a few calories walking to and from the buffet areas.  In our area the most number of beds occupied was I think 4 and on later days of the holiday we would choose one for sun in the morning and then occupy a different one in the afternoon to maximise the sun available.

Two of the hotel’s restaurants are also down at sea level – Club Laurel which we use on Monday evening and La Trattoria on Wednesday evening.  In the latter we are disappointed that the lasagne (an essential Italian dish) was vegetarian only.  In both cases it was my perception that the attention to detail and service was lacking.

On the final evening we visited a recommended restaurant in the town, we had visited it on the second evening to secure a booking and it seems to be full every evening.  An excellent salad to open but the follow up was not perhaps as good as we had been led to expect – it is probably the best in town but I am not sure it quite deserved the hype we experienced – however it was exceptionally busy.

The timing of the return trip is dependent on the ferries.  These leave La Gomera at 7 am (Fred Olsen) and 7:30 am (Armas).  We are booked on the latter which determines an 04:40 alarm call.  Plus we end up with four meals during the day – a light breakfast at the hotel, a Burger King during our five years hours at the airport awaiting our flight, sandwiches on the flight and then battered sausage and chips once we are home.  It is also a long old day.

 

Brighton 31.12.25 – 3.1.26

Brighton Pavilion 1.1.26

Brighton Pavilion 1.1.26

This was a short break intended to spend a few days in Brighton to see in the New Year.  We stayed in Drakes Hotel which has wonderful views of the seafront and the Pier and some pretty steep stairs to the rooms – given the age of the building there is no lift!

The new year celebrations are in the Grand which is a modest walk down hill on our way there.  At 1am it is a far less speedy walk back up the slope (it can hardly be called a hill) to our hotel – but the two flights of stairs nearly do for us when we do get there.

Sleep is broken but we cascade downstairs anticipating a completely different day to the one which happens.  Jackie had booked tickets for the Royal Pavilion this morning – but when we get there it is closed and locked up.  The tickets are checked and definitely say 1 January.  Eventually a disembodied voice tells us that they are closed for the day.

We walk into the Lanes and after a coffee note that Brighton Morris men and women and children are gathering for a display so we get a drink from the adjacent hostelry and await the entertainment – which eventually draws quite a crowd.

Our next destination is the Pier.  The much promised waffle outlet is not open but the Palm Court restaurant at the end of the Pier is and serves an excellent portion of whitebait and chips for a very good price.  Great value for money with an Irish coffee to warm the insides as well.

In the evening we walk along the front again – this time our destination is “The Salt Room” a well regarded restaurant immediately adjacent to the Grand Hotel and therefore easy to find.  We all chose the chicken main course and it was excellent accompanied with some chips and tomato salad.  Very pleasant environment and good food so a great evening.

Brighton Pavilion 2.1.26

Brighton Pavilion 2.1.26

The following morning we head back to the Pavilion and the management sort things out rapidly refunding our tickets and granting free entry.  Whilst the ground floor has not changed since our last visit neither Jackie or I recall being able to go upstairs where some of the restoration story is told.  Queen Victoria felt that Brighton was too busy to be a suitable holiday residence for her growing family so largely removed the interior decoration and sold it to the local council (as then constituted) for initially £53000 but when the empty interiors were discovered they sought a refund – which amounted to £3000!  Restoration to close to late Georgian decoration took the second half of the twentieth century and I would wager cost much more than £3k.  However it is very well done.

Pavilion Music Room 2.1.26

Pavilion Music Room 2.1.26

After a bite of lunch we go the theatre for Sunny Afternoon – the Kinks musical where we are reminded of the song writing of Ray Davies.  It is some years since we saw the original West End production and it is certainly very effective.  A great entertainment.

In the evening we dine at Dilsk – the restaurant in the basement of Drakes Hotel although it is independently operated.  Good but not as outstanding as we had hoped – but still pretty good halibut and I liked the opening mushroom custard – but not to everyone’s taste.

 

Hembal Manor 11 – 15 December 2025

Falmouth Maritime Museum 12.12.25

Falmouth Maritime Museum 12.12.25

11 December

The dear old A303 and then the A30 are covered today as we head to Hembal Manor, an excellent house for a family or similar party.  There are nine of us in total congregating for a pre-Christmas “Christmas” just outside St Austell.

The outward journey is the easiest ever drive on the A303 and as it is dark and grey I decide to drive the entire distance.  Not recommended is the Ilminster service area – despite the actually quite good refreshments from Greggs – the toilets need attention!  Also on the downhill three lane section I am identified as having achieved 72mph in the Tiguan (I would question if it is capable of such speeds so must have been a following wind).  Oddly had I allowed Jackie to drive she would have been behind the wheel on this section.

The Tiguan is also noted for not having a satnav worth using and it so proved again today as the only route it can find into the destination is along a road in need of much repair and which I miss at the first attempt as the road swings left and it does NOT tell me to turn right at the appropriate junction.  Another car coming to the party uses the same route in as I cannot find the road in from the other end (and I have been here before)!

12 December

Today two of us go to visit the Maritime Museum down in Falmouth and I can heartily recommend it.  Not huge but an amazing collection of different styles of boats from across the world each with a little story to tell.  It also has great views from the top over the adjacent Falmouth Sound and the bibbly bobbly boats (many of which are out of the water at this time of the year).

Heligan Light trail 12.12.25

Heligan Light trail 12.12.25

In the afternoon we drive down to the Lost Gardens of Heligan for the light trail in the grounds.  All excellent and it probably seemed further to walk than was actually the case.  The annoying thing was that for some reason we were parked away from the main car park which added to the distance covered for no obvious reason.

Dinner was booked for the Tartan Fox at Carvynick Holiday Park.  However the satnav decided it would take us to Carvinnik Farm – which is close to Mevagissey on the south coast of Cornwall and the Tartan Fox is close to Newquay.  Whoops.  We get there eventually and I decide stern words are needed with the satnav system when we get home.

13 December

Cloud Bridge Eden Project 13.12.25

Cloud Bridge Eden Project 13.12.25

Also close to Hembal Manor is the Eden Project and this is visited in day time.  Since my last visit the entrance has changed dramatically and the parking seems to be a long way away from the entrance.  The two domes themselves are little changed although in the main dome all of the vegetation has reached maturity and is impressive.  In the Mediterranean dome it was largely freshly planted on my previous visit and is now mature.  This is probably not the best time of year to visit this dome.

Up in the air 13.12.25

Up in the air 13.12.25

Not for the faint hearted is a many step climb to the very top of the dome which would have been beyond me – but a number of the party managed it.

Other areas have been added – externally there has been a lot of planting and further landscaping.  A pair of zip wires stretch across the entire site (although are seeing little use this afternoon) and another major area has been added (Core) which is purposed at the moment to provide entertainment for children.

It remains an amazing development and again there are lights in the evening – but we decided not to do a second extravaganza.

14 December

We spend most of the day watching television apart from a lunchtime excursion to the Polgooth Inn where I enjoyed a turkey roast (well it is all part of Christmas this year) and a gentle drive back to the Manor.  Two of our party left us this morning so it was first farewells as they departed.  We then watched a selection of Christmas and other movies.  We tried the Polar Express which has been such a success in recent years but neither of us like the story line and decide after about 30 minutes to revert to other content – an episode of a comedy programme which Jackie has been enjoying was shown so that we know all about liking circuses!

15 December

Time to brave the A30 and the A303 back home.  The journey is punctuated by two main events.  Firstly a stop at The Hub a small but very welcoming restaurant at Tintinhull where we had excellent coffees and carrot cake and could not stop for one of their grander offerings.  Heartily recommended and one to remember.

Less welcome was the traffic jam on a single track section (but we were on a dual carriageway) following an accident.  For a while we only move as cars use a cut through to return on the other carriageway but the diversion was lengthy trip through some villages but it is uncertain if it would have been quicker than staying with the queue which we did.

 

Paphos 28.11.25 – 5.12.25

View from Hotel room Paphos 28.11.25

View from Hotel room Paphos 28.11.25

We have been to Paphos before – but not since I retired so it was well over 10 years ago.  Last time we hired a car and toured along the coast and also visited the Troodos Mountains.  This time we were going with the hope (subject to the weather) of seeing some winter sun and getting away from the domestic cold and those slate grey skies which have been prevalent throughout 2025.

A particularly early flight out of Gatwick was offset by using valet parking.  Take the car into the right car park, hand over the keys and walk across into the departures area to drop cases and then go through security.  On this Friday morning it is pretty quiet and apart from the usual need to inspect my carry on bag we are soon through the other side.  A decent breakfast courtesy of Sonoma and then the usual wait for the plane to be ready.  It is at one of the nearer gates which makes a pleasant change.  The flight is full and it is a 4.5 hour flight to Paphos – earphones in and away we go.

We are staying at the Amavi which is one of about four major hotels along the sea front and I can heartily recommend it – after all at reception we are offered an upgrade and end up in an impressive fourth floor suite which has a balcony with loungers, table and chairs and is completely protected from the prevailing wind – meaning we can enjoy fresh air all the way through the week.

The hotel has extensive grounds and allocates residents a pair of sunbeds for the week – it is relatively quiet this time of year but in the busy times it means there are no towels reserving sunbeds or similar.  It is also quiet.  We do not see anyone in the outdoor pools as they are probably simply too cold.  We do not use the indoor one as we prefer the open air.  We only use the sunbeds a couple times – but the weather is warm enough to mean we can return with some tan rather than none.

In the peak the hotel has three special restaurants.  At the time we visited the outside ones are closed but the inside one operates in two different formats – half the time serving European food and on other nights it is a Japanese menu as it seems this is in favour in Cyprus at present – it seems to be on offer elsewhere.

Paphos Wine Tasting 4.12.25

Paphos Wine Tasting 4.12.25

On the first day we were supposed to go on a local tour with wine tasting but regrettably (and without being told) it was cancelled – all funds re-imbursed.  We had expected it to go ahead having had an email the previous day and quite why no-one managed to let us know it was cancelled we did not understand.  (Autogenerated emails from Trip Advisor are not to be trusted it seems).  Later in the week the hotel organised a small wine tasting and I can confirm that there are some excellent local wines available with the Persephone being local to Paphos apparently – and from a winery we should have visited!

During our stay we wandered into central Paphos and since our last visit the main front has been pedestrianised and therefore it all looks a little different.  It no doubt makes it far safer but it seems quieter – but that may just be the time of year.  It is obvious that there has been some development away from the main front and this includes “The Lodge” a newish restaurant serving South African barbecue food where we dine one evening.  Recommended even if the service is just a little rapid.

On the main front we stopped in Aphrodite’s Secret and selected some excellent supplies – so many nuts that we brought a lot home and some wines.  They also told us that one of the wineries we had been due to visit was not actually that good (no names) so we may have had a lucky escape!

A restful week and the temperatures were around 20 deg C – slightly warmer on some days too – which makes it pleasant.  We had thought about visiting the Roman remains and the Old Town but decided to save those delights for a return visit at some future date.

However a decent week away despite the high winds one one day and I am told we ended up under budget.

 

Spanish Paradors 14.9.25

Our homeward journey is multi stage.  Our coach returns us to Bilbao Airport.  We traverse what I believe to be Rioja country and we do see some vines but not on the scale I was anticipating.

At the airport where we have the usual wait for the Vueling aeroplane to return us to London Gatwick.  They disembark by row numbers – five at a time.  I am not sure it makes things better as people are still not ready to move once their rows are called.

Then a transfer bus to the long term parking where the car awaits at the far end of a car park and the rain is pouring down from the sky in vast quantities.  We rarely resort to remote parking – justified as it came as part of the package to stay at the hotel on the outward journey which brings back memories of the excellent meal at Sorrel unmatched during our sojourn abroad.

Northern Spain – potentially damper than would have been ideal.  The Paradors I felt were a little lacking from the expectations we had of them, although we saw some others along the way.  The rooms are inevitably standardised I suppose but the service levels I had anticipated to be higher than we experienced – are they suffering the same recruitment difficulties as the UK or as it feels is it deliberate to manage with as few as possible.

Some of the scenery was magnificent.  Away from the towns on the Camino Way it felt that the English were far from welcome (Oviedo I am looking at you), however another day it might be another story.  We have now seen places we might not have seen, I would like to come back and visit some of the Rioja wineries and Bilbao.  There is also an interesting looking narrow gauge rail network – but I suspect the frequency and speed of trains might be on the low side!

Spanish Paradors 13.9.25

Santo Domingo de la Calzada 13.9.25

Santo Domingo de la Calzada 13.9.25

There is an optional trip into nearby Burgos today which most travellers take.  We always felt that we would need a rest day (even if we had not already had one) today so we are staying put.  Santo Domingo de la Calzada is dead on the Camino Way which runs through the town centre and so when we go out for a wander around we can actually see some of the travellers making their way (or actually lunching in most cases).

Parador 13.9.25

Parador 13.9.25

The sun does shine in this part of the world after all and we have it today so the wander around is very pleasant.  The outside of the Parador looks modern but hidden inside is a former hospital building dating from the 12th century.  Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada has various magnificent lounges, plus a modest bar where drinks can be obtained.

Having been a little unhappy at dinner last night the same group of six dined together in a little restaurant just across the way from the hotel and had possibly the best meal of the week here.  We were not quite the last to leave the restaurant – but almost last which I suspect speaks for itself.  Well looked after by the staff this evening and a decent end to the week, apart from the journey home.

Spanish Paradors 12.9.25

Lugo Roman Wall 12.9.25

Lugo Roman Wall 12.9.25

We are now moving on after three nights in Vilalba and we are now heading east having largely been heading west until now.  Our first stop today is the town of Lugo which is the only town to retain a complete encircling Roman wall.  So once we are there we head to an easy to access section with ramps as one or two of our number are not as agile as once was the case.

Lugo Wall 12.9.25

Lugo Wall 12.9.25

The town is quite attractive and our meander back is enhanced by a visit to an excavation of Roman remains under the town centre.

Lugo Excavations 12.9.25

Lugo Excavations 12.9.25

On our outward journey the route was along the coast with the Picos Mountains on our left hand side.  Today, making use of the excellent roads, we actually head up and up and up and over the mountains seeing an entirely different countryside.  Very green because of the rain but also very thinly populated as tehre are simply few people living in this area.

Once we drop down onto a plateau this is mainly grain and sunflower growing, no doubt getting good rainfall but again not that heavily inhabited about the towns we pass.  Much of our route is tracked by the local rail network, however I cannot recall seeing many services so they cannot be particularly frequent.

Leon Cathedral 12.9.25

Leon Cathedral 12.9.25

Our second stop is Leon and one of our party has checked the local Dotto service and we almost run down the hill to ensure we catch the last trip around the town before the long lunch time break – by the end of which our coach will be on its way.  So we have a gentle trip around the town.

Parador de Leon 12.9.25

Parador de Leon 12.9.25

We did pass the above Parador which looks spectacular and I hope the inside lives up to the external promise – in itself it might be tempting to plot a return!

We then mosey back up the main drag and find a a quiet looking restaurant in a side street.  We do not venture inside until we have eaten and find that it is actually quite busy.  Nothing special – but a reasonable meal.

The rest of the day rather reminds me of why I am never overly keen on coach holidays as it is a long schlep to the final parador – Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada.   I cannot blame the coach driver – he was driving along at all times at a decent speed – but there are some distances to cover on this trip.

Dinner this evening is a little awkward.  The staff here are again overloaded or ill prepared.  There are two dining rooms and it is not obvious that they are being treated equally as finding anyone in ours seems rare.  One of our travellers is treated in what seems to be a rude manner and another demands that an apology should be offered – but I am not sure it crosses the language barrier but it leaves a sour taste.  The underlying problem is that the paradors have clearly cut staff to the minimum and they are over worked.

Spanish Paradors 11.9.25

We take one look out of the window this morning and we confirm that not going to La Coruna is absolutely brilliant idea – the rain is pouring and the forecasts do not indicate any let up all day.

Breakfast here is not as great as it was at the first Parador; the best solution is ordering an omelette.  So they may operate to the same decor but the standards for breakfast do vary (both are four star).

We have visited La Coruna previously on a cruise we took in around 2012/3 on one of the Cunard Queens so we feel we would see no more today and get very wet.

At lunchtime we take a stroll down the hill as I had spotted another restaurant and we book a table this evening for six of the group as we want to ensure we do not have difficulties finding somewhere to eat.

The rest of the day is spent reading, catching up on various magazines.

In the evening we have a good evening at the restaurant and wine bar – Jackie goes for a very expensive bottle of wine but it is very good.  Just nice to have  a chat with different people and whilst the food is not outstanding I suspect it is better than the hotel.

Spanish Paradors 10.9.25

Santiago de Compostela 10.9.25

Santiago de Compostela 10.9.25

We technically reach the end of the Camino Way today – we are not walking it and I believe these days it is not compulsory to walk the entire distance at one go.

The city centre is largely far free and so we are dropped a walk away from there.  All well and good but one of our number slightly overdoes it and the return journey is a little more fraught.

We arrive in time to join the daily service which marks the end of the journey and the place is packed.  Most of our fellow travellers do not stay but we wish to see the experience – a full Catholic Mass plus the swinging of an immense incense burner.  It probably looks more dangerous than it actually is and getting photos proves none too easy.

Santiago Cathedral 10.9.25

Santiago Cathedral 10.9.25

The incense burner can just be seen in the photograph.

Knowing that this evening we will be eating in a small establishment close to the Parador we visit the Parador just off the square and enjoy a light lunch coming across a somewhat Spanish phenomenon.  At an adjacent table an individual takes a seat and orders.  He proceeds to read the newspaper whilst having a radio on the table turned up enough to be annoying.  The experience repeats later in the week with a sole diner so assume it is socially acceptable – something which in the UK would bring all sorts of frowns and complaints.

In the evening we walk around the back of the Parador and visit a small bar which we just about fill.  We are served the local tapas, all very simple and local home cooked food and a different way to spend the evening and very cheap to assist the holiday budget stay in balance.

We largely avoided the rain today but we note that tomorrow is intended to be very wet.  We decide that we will stay in the hotel and have a rest day.

 

Spanish Paradors 9.9.25

Oviedo Cathedral 9.9.25

Oviedo Cathedral 9.9.25

Having had two nights in Limpias this morning we also take our cases with us as we head down and out as we are moving along the northern coast.  Excellent roads would make local driving very simple.

Our initial destination is the town of Oviedo and the guide had been talking expansively about it being the capital of the local cider industry.  As a Spanish town it has a large church and a square.

La Regenta 9.9.25

La Regenta 9.9.25

 

The statue of La Regenta is a pictorial recognition of the heroine of a book which has become recognised belatedly as a classic of Spanish literature who lived and wrote in Oviedo and the books are set in the city.

After visiting these we walk to the market and I acquire a new belt as my existing ones have all given up the unenviable task of restraining my gut from wandering around.

Cheeses Oviedo 9.9.25

Cheeses Oviedo 9.9.25

In the market there was cheese for sale.  Regrettably the UK government currently prevents import of European cheese because there was a small foot and mouth outbreak in the Spring  – soon brought under control – the continuance of the ban is unfathomable.

We then wander back and, based on the recommendation, decide that the place to get some lunch is the Calle Gascona – with about 15 bars serving food and cider.  We cannot recommend it.  I think we try four different establishments.  We struggle to attract interest from the staff, to find anything in English as a menu (and at this point do not get me started on Google translate which appears to struggle with the menus here).  When we do get seated relatively comfortable and with a menu of which we can make sense we probably both make poor choices.  I went for the dish described in terms of being as “grandmother used to make” (paraphrasing) and I had forgotten just how poor the area once was and consequently the nature of the available foods.

Other people may have different experiences but interestingly one commentator suffered equally badly in this street and then ate elsewhere and did remarkably well.  If only he had been before us and not after!!

After lunch we went onto Gijon a pleasant coastal town.  The coach rolled to a stop outside an unexpected and unplanned treasure – a railway museum which has a neat collection of trains – standard gauge, narrow gauge and industrial on display and kept me happily occupied for quite some time.

Rail Museum Gijon 9.9.25

Rail Museum Gijon 9.9.25

I could add numerous photos and direct you elsewhere for an in depth review.  This is a former mine locomotive built I believe by Dufel.  However there is a lot in a small space and in an adjacent yard much more waiting restoration.

We did find time to visit the beach before moving on to Parador de Vilalba where we have three nights.  Walking into the room was a touch of deja vu as it is fitted out almost identically to the previous Parador – which was a slight surprise but once over the shock at least we can soon find everything!

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