Gallos Tintagel
Much was made a few years ago when they opened a bridge to replace the long lost land link to the ruins of Tintagel Castle. I visited Tintagel a long time ago and vaguely recall the many steps up and down to obtain access, although I could not recall the finer details – and it was a long time ago. I just understood it was now much easier.
I recall having to park in the village – that has not changed. What I did not recall was an initial steep slope down (which apparently is often covered by vehicular transport but that is not happening at present as the trackway is unsafe – so there is no alternative to walking). There is then a further long stretch to the land side of the new bridge which is uphill but not as steep.
The historic route was to continue downwards from the midway point down to the exhibition centre which is almost down at sea level and then to walk up the numerous steps to the point where the bridge now reaches across from the mainland. Indeed people can still use the old route if they wish. So whilst the bridge makes it much easier than it was Tintagel is not the easiest to access for those less mobile than the average (which is where I suspect I fall these days).
I wander around the site and take a picture of Gallos – a bronze sculpture situated on the furthermost cliff. Gallos means power. It is inspired by the Arthurian legends although the castle itself considers that it was the summer home for the kings of Dumnonia. Dumnonia is a Latinised name for the local Celtic kingdom which probably existed between the 4th and 8th Centuries AD (so commencing around the time the Romans withdrew from England). The tribe emanated from Devon but spread across Cornwall in one direction and parts of Somerset in the other direction.
However the return to the modern village is very tiring and we are in need of sustenance and I am pleased to say that one of the local pubs provided an excellent sandwich and a decent half of bitter.
Stairs to upstairs room Old Post Office
Across the road from the pub is the Tintagel Old Post Office which is preserved less because of its link to the Post Office but far more to do with the internal arrangements and construction – internally there is an explanation of how the building developed over the centuries which although only a few moments in the telling was probably a long period of discovery. The stairs to one of the upstairs room are a real challenge and demonstrative of a somewhat historic view of health and safety.
We then head across part of Bodmin Moor to find Jamaica Inn – which these days is just a little off the A30 itself – but was of course once the staging point between Launceston and Bodmin.
It is also the setting of a famous novel by Daphne du Maurier – Jamaica Inn – a gothic telling of a story of Cornish wreckers and the impact on the local community which Jackie and I have both read in advance of the holiday (well I finished it earlier in the week). Unlike so much modern television it has a beginning, a middle and an end all of them in the expected order which is unlike so much story telling these days.
We are in the Daphne du Maurier suite the best in the building – which is stunning and has magnificent views over Bodmin Moor and of the A30 – which never seems overly busy, although I remember the slow crawl past the Inn when the A30 was an ordinary road.
Dinner here is a different style to many we have had this week – generous portions and well done – even if the kitchen and staffing appears to have capacity problems. Main users of the facilities are bikers staying over as we seen them when we arrive in early afternoon and then dining in the restaurant when we go down in the evening. Even here as elsewhere the food is delivered to the table at a decent temperature – rather than nearly cold which is how it sometimes arrive in London.