Category: Holidays (Page 1 of 2)

Italy / Austria Homeward

4 January 2025 / admin

OBB 1116-267 2.1.25

This actually covers three days after the action previously recorded. The first day was entirely free in Innsbruck and we largely stayed in our room reading and resting – we had a pizza one day when we were out and about but generally had seen nothing we wanted to revisit in the cold. However the opportunity existed.

The second day is traversing Austria and Germany. DB Rail is at the moment reckoned to be poorly performing and we are subjected to this. Our first train to Munich is not a problem although a little late if I recall correctly and we can watch the countryside pass by. In Munich the train is in the platform but like some UK operators getting passengers boarded gently and steadily is not accepted and we have a last minute dash – which with heavy suitcases is not welcome. The service onwards to Cologne is soon being undertaken in the dark (so reading and listening time) until we come to a halt. The driver on a previous train had seen something on the track and so we halt whilst an investigation is undertaken. Inevitably this takes quite a bit of time and as the report may have been a person the caution is understandable. There is no opportunity to recover the time.

The final day is a service from Cologne to Brussels which also runs late – so we are a little worried over our connection time given the Eurostar approach to travellers. No need to worry as the inward train to Brussels was also late and so we get through security and are penned up in an area without enough seats for those travelling for ages. The train is there but we are not allowed to board it. Then they undertake loading the priority passengers – understandable but we spend ages in a queue and it seems like they are already letting in passengers for the following service (at least so it is implied). I regret to say that once again this is not the way that anyone should be treating international rail passengers. These days I am not sure cattle would be allowed to travel like this. Eurostar really need to take a step back and find a better way of ensuring that passengers are respected.

Inevitably a late departure means a late arrival and I thought that we would have a nice simple connection into the service home from Waterloo (which is only hourly because of the poor service on our local line). I make my way to the right entrance at Kings Cross for the Underground – this means going right to the front of the old station entrance which was swept away a couple of decades ago and taking the lift down (plus a few steps). The escalator delivers us to the right platform and it is across on the level from Victoria line to Bakerloo at Oxford Circus. The watch is ticking.

We head up the escalators at Waterloo and although it is almost on the hour our train is on the other side of the barrier with the doors open – we dive through and onto the first coach. The train departs about three late. The guard comes through and I thank him and explain that we are lucky to catch it. He had to deal with a late arriving disabled passenger further forward and so was loading a wheelchair when he should have been signalling departure. Our driver however is up to the challenge and observing limits is able to recover the time dropped at Waterloo by the time we roll into Woking. Once we are at Guildford It is then a normal wander across to another platform for the meander home. Another holiday completed.

Brochure descriptions:

Day 11:

After a delicious hotel breakfast, enjoy a day at leisure to explore Innsbruck, perhaps taking a walk beside the Inn river or past the fountains and pavilion of the Innsbrucker Hofgarten, landscaped royal palace gardens which date from the early 15th century.

Innsbruck is a city of many delightful churches, including the baroque cathedral with its famous Madonna and Child painting by Lukas Cranach the Elder, as well as the gothic Hofkirche.

Another notable architectural wonder in Innsbruck’s Altstadt is the Golden Roof, a glorious copper-tiled roof built in 1500 to mark the occasion of the marriage of Maximilian I to Bianca Maria Sforza.

Day 12:

This morning, we board the train down the Inn valley to Munich, where we change trains and continue to Cologne.

Passing through the historic cities of Augsburg and Ulm, and fairy-tale towns such as Schwäbisch Gmünd and Limberg and der Lahn, we then arrive at our Rhine-side destination of Cologne, dominated by its imposing, twin-spired Gothic cathedral.

Day 13:

After breakfast today our wonderful festive tour concludes as we travel from Cologne to Brussels, before catching our final train, the Eurostar, to London St Pancras.

On arrival at St Pancras we say farewell to our travelling companions and recall the winter wonders we have witnessed in Italy and Austria.

Stubaitalbahn 31 December 2024

1 January 2025 / admin

Church from Stubaitalbahn 31.12.24

We are nearing the end of the holiday today and we are going to travel on the Stubaitalbahn which these days is an 18km tram trip into rural areas. The first section now uses local tram tracks but as we leave the town and commence climbing it is then branch line status running to Fulpmes. The line was opened in 1904 so has seen service now for over 120 years and seems well used with modern stock as it winds its way round and through villages – we see at least three sides on one particular church spire as we travel. The service frequency on the last part of the line is relatively low with some trams turning around at an intermediate stop.

Reaching the destination it looks cold outside and so we choose to sit in the tram until the return journey commences – but there is ice and falls are not a good idea.

Bergisel ski jump 31.12.24

Also visible is the Bergisel ski jump which is the latest of a series of ski jumps – this one was completed in 2003 replacing the version used for the 1976 Winter Olympics. It is one of the major ski jumps in the World being part of the “Four Hills Tournament”.

The best bit of the return journey which I work out as we descend it is that in Innsbruck the trams appear to operate around a one way loop, so that we can leave the tram not very far at all from the hotel and whilst it takes a few minutes to establish bearings (so much easier with maps on mobile phones these days) we can visit a café just across the road from the hotel and consume some warming vittels and then dive straight back into the hotel.

By and large I think we have come to the conclusion that holidays with snow and ice and not suitable for us – the risk / reward ratio does not seem to work well and I am glad that our time in Italy on this trip was not (for us) particularly cold – indeed in Sirmione out of the wind it was pleasant and (unlike the summer) not overcrowded.

And the brochure extract says:

Our New Year celebrations begin with a journey through the wintry scenery of the Stubai Valley aboard the narrow-gauge Stubaitalbahn.

From Innsbruck, it winds up through gentle meadows, providing great views of the city below. Passing sleepy villages, the route then plunges into a landscape of icy forests and alpine meadows laden with snow, before winding its way down to the peaceful valley town of Fulpmes.

The Stubai Valley Railway – Stubaitalbahn, in the native tongue – was opened in 1904 and has grown in passenger numbers ever since, no doubt owed to the beautiful scenery it enjoys on its one hour trip from Fulpmes to Innsbruck. Along the journey, the train passes many spectacular sights including the Mutters and Kreither viaduct.

Innsbruck 30 December 2024

31 December 2024 / admin

Golden Roof Innsbruck 30.12.24

A walking tour of Innsbruck this morning. As with the majority of our trip the sun is shining and therefore it is not as cold as we feared it might be. Indeed it is pleasant weather to be wandering around although equally glad to return to the warm if somewhat small hotel room at the end of the morning.

Innsbruck, essentially due to the Brenner pass immediately to the south, has always been the gateway between northern and southern Europe and was therefore a key point to control over long periods as it was possible to extract money from those passing with goods for trading in both directions.

Originally at the heart of Habsburg Empire the city then came under the Archdukes of Austria. A period as part of Bavaria followed until return to Austria in 1814. However being such an important trade route has led to the city always been prosperous even if owing allegiance to new rulers.

A key sight in the city and indeed its symbol is the “Golden Roof” which was completed to mark the wedding of the Emperor Maximilian I to Bianca Maria Stroza in 1500 with the balcony being used by the Emperor and his new wife to observe the festivals, tournaments and activities in the square below. The Emperor was King of the Romans from 1486 and Holy Roman Emperor from 1508 until his death in 1519. He was a particularly able warlord. This was a period when the ruler has sway over much of what is now Italy and Germany whilst marriages led to his grandson taking the thrones of Castile and Aragon – showing just how far the tentacles of the Hapsburg empire stretched.

Innsbruck Cathedral 30.12.24

We are also able to go inside the Cathedral which was constructed following some earthquakes between 1716 and 1724 when it was dedicated. In December 1944 Innsbruck suffered significant bomb damage which caused destruction of parts of the Cathedral and was restored by 1950 becoming a Cathedral in 1964. Further repair and reconstruction work was undertaken between 1991 and 1993 with a new dedication service in October 1993.

We decide that a trip up in the local ski lift holds little attraction following the heights achieved yesterday. Prior to arrival much has been made of the light show in the gardens but when we pass it on the walking tour we see that it appears mainly geared towards children and so decide against going out in the evening. During the day the snow is melting slightly but after dark it freezes and again and one of the party has a fall when they do visit the illuminations and that proves to us it is better to be safe than sorry – we thought that it might be slightly slippery and bound to be worse if it freezes slightly having thawed during the day. We did not want to come back from the holiday bruised and bandaged. I have no doubt that it is worth seeing – but we would prefer to avoid any accidents.

And for reference here is the brochure description:

We wake up with the wintry mountains looking on to festive Innsbruck. The gentle bustle of picture-perfect streets and the seasonal weather combine to charming effect on this enchanting day full of anticipation.

After breakfast, we enjoy a guided walking tour of beautiful Innsbruck, followed by a leisurely afternoon during which we can explore further.

With a remarkably picturesque medieval centre, the town is dotted with impressive buildings, including Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse. Here, a shimmering golden Habsburg roof, the ornate Hölbling house and the imposing 14th-century watchtower look out over buildings with arched arcaded frontages.

When it goes dark, LUMAGICA Innsbruck invites you to take a literally illuminating walk in the Hofgarten – for the fifth time in a row. Rainbow (colours), flowers and butterflies as well as abstract elements and interactive light installations line the approximately one kilometre long circular path.

Zillertalbahn 29 December 2024

30 December 2024 / admin

Zillertalbahn train 29.12.24

There is a decent breakfast available so that gets the day off to a good start. Innsbruck is quiet this morning with few people around. We have a reasonable walk to the station, slightly uphill and carefully identifying landmarks to ensure we can achieve the return journey without getting lost. The walk takes us through the main town centre and at the station we catch a train to Jenbach.

Here we can cross under the tracks to the separate Zillertalbahn which departs from an adjacent platform. Having read the time table I know that they now only run one steam return trip a day, for about three months, in high summer and it is no surprise to me that our journey today on the outward trip is behind a diesel locomotive. The return was with a self-powered diesel unit. There is a wait before departure which luckily enables a toilet stop. Our guide thought we would go immediately but in fact the timetable appears to have been amended since he was given the timings.

In the light of the haulage I am pleased therefore to be able to record that I travelled behind a Zillertal locomotive when we visited the Welshpool and Llanfair Railway back in June 2024 on our North Wales extravaganza. However the chances of steam haulage in Austria on this line is now heavily limited and far more is it a conveyance for local residents – the entire area seems to have far more modern adjacent buildings than older ones and no doubt the line has had to adapt to meet the demand.

The line winds through a white landscape as snow has fallen recently and it makes it a pleasant journey through the wintry wonderland. There are quite a few stops along the way with reasonable numbers joining to go skiing or for other purposes – so it is well used – at least at this time of year.

The far end of the Zillertalbahn line is Mayrhofen. Here we leave the train behind and walk up through the village gently. Obviously it is slightly more slippery than at times due to the recent snow, although the walking routes are generally well gritted, the previous falls are thawing as we are above zero when in the sun (which continues to shine brightly as it has generally throughout the holiday).

Near the top of the town is a cable car which exists primarily to take the many skiers up to the ski area (which is above the snow line and can therefore be used throughout the year) but also enables us to ascend to appreciate the views and the sunshine. Once at the top xx we can see that the various ski slopes are heavily populated and we can see the surrounding white tops of the mountain ranges.

The main building at the top has a sun deck which catches the sun nicely and I walk up to it to take some photos of the people actually skiing and use various ski lifts – there is another lift to a much higher point. We then return to the town below.

On the upwards walk through Mayrhofen a sign for apfelstrudel had been seen and that guaranteed a stop on the return journey; I chose the local soup with cheese scone within it, simple but warming given that there is snow everywhere outside.

The return train journeys are a reverse of the outward trip and the walk back down to the hotel remembering to turn left at the cannabis shop. Luckily with the sun shining it has not felt that cold apart from the wait at Mayrhofen for the train to arrive.

The brochure text is linked to a photo of a steam locomotive – hence the comments above:

Travelling on the Zillertalbahn today, we step aboard heritage carriages for an atmospheric journey through the delightful Ziller Valley.

The railway’s distinctive red engine stands out against the snow-clad landscapes as we marvel at sights such as rushing Ziller river, enchanting Tyrolean towns that look as if they belong on a Christmas card and meadows blanketed in thick, fresh snow.

Our outstanding journey on the Zillertalbahn (or the Ziller Valley Railway) takes us on a 19-mile route from Jenbach through the grandiose mountain scenery to Mayrhofen at the other end of the valley.

In the heart of the breath taking Tyrol region of Austria, the Zillertalbahn wends its way across the shimmering meadows, along the valleys and under the mountains. Cheerful red carriages and engine are easy to spot, as the Zillertalbahn crawls like a bright caterpillar across the Ziller valley floor offering a glimpse into the distinct charm of Austria’s verdant countryside.

The train line was officially opened in 1902, mainly operating as a passenger service for residents of the Ziller valley and the rest of the Tyrol region. The line has expanded to take on freight services, and the line actually owns a series of steam engines which are put on occasionally to take passengers and tourists back in time. Beginning at the jolly market town of Jenbach near the shimmering Achen Lake, the Zillertalbahn snakes its way through the enchanting small Tyrolean towns and villages on its way to the ski resort of Mayrhofen.

We arrive in Mayrhofen where you have free time to ride to the summit of Penken via a gondola cable car, walk the cobbled streets or visit the Ahorn Eagle’s Stage, an observation point for alpine birds of prey.

Verona and onto Innsbruck 28 December 2024

29 December 2024 / admin

Juliet Balcony Verona 28.12.24

With our luggage on its way to Austria we still have another trip in Italy. Our coach takes us to Verona and again the weather is bright and certainly not cold. The coach takes about an hour before we have a few minutes going round in a circle to find the local guide. The coach then perambulates around the outer part of the town showing us the walls before dropping us alongside the river Adige which we cross into the town centre.

The centre of Verona is small and has a some attractive architecture with a main market square which is very busy and an adjacent square in the centre of which is a statue of Dante. The entire town appears quite attractive to wander around. It seems pretty busy today.

The main purpose for us to visit Verona (and likewise for many large numbers) is the balcony attributed to Juliet. Of course the reality is vastly different with the balcony itself only dating back to the early 20th Century. Shakespeare’s story appears to derive from a poem published in 1562 written by Arthur Brooke which was using stories from Italian writers who used the enmity between the Cappelletti and Montecchi families. The house dates back to the 13th century and has been long known as Juliet’s house. However there is no truth in the stories – or is there?

From Verona we catch a train which will ascend over the Brenner pass and take us to Innsbruck. One day (and I am not sure it will be in my lifetime) there will be a huge tunnel under the Alps which will take the trains but until then our ascent is not particularly rapid as it is steep and although electrified the other services dictate the pace. Similar restrictions apply to the descent. Given the time of year the latter part of the journey is in the dark but even we can tell that there has been a significant snow fall in the recent past and the hills at least will be white when we can see them on the morrow.

Our new hotel is situated in the centre of Innsbruck adjacent to the market and the river. Hotel reception is however not briefed. The receptionist asks us to hand over our passports – fair enough – and then asks us to select our dinner – and yet we did that some time ago and it has been sent through already. Then she sends us away from the desk and refuses to hand over the room keys – which is mismanagement of the highest order – they have our names on the passports and should exchange one for the other. Eventually sense is seen and we ascend to our room where our cases have safely arrived but the room itself is regrettably less impressive – no view and one of those rooms where I sit still whilst Jackie unpacks and vice versa. The quality of dinner is an improvement despite the need to make choices and so we are on the swings and roundabouts again.

The brochure description of the day:

Leaving Lake Garda behind, we take the coach to Verona, where we enjoy a guided tour of a city filled with Roman ruins, medieval buildings, Italian culture and romance, and famous as the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet.

In a UNESCO World Heritage-listed city centre, we visit Juliet’s iconic balcony and the Roman arena, an open-air venue still used for performances today, where some free time could lend itself to indulging in lunch in one of the many restaurants around Piazza Brà.

In mid-afternoon, we board the train for a direct journey to Innsbruck in Austria. This spectacular route through the Alps reveals some magical wintry scenes as we leave Italy by the Brenner Pass.

Located in the Inn Valley, beneath the unique backdrop of the Alps, Innsbruck is known for its Imperial buildings and quaint Old Town, which reflects the city’s historic and cultural past through its wonderful Renaissance, Baroque and traditional Tyrolean architecture. At this time of year though, it’s a winter wonderland of snow-frosted mountains, cosy cafés and sugar-dusted trees.

Our hotel in central Innsbruck looks out to the majestic snow-capped peaks of the Austrian Alps. We will be staying at The Hotel Innsbruck, situated in the heart of the Old Town, within walking distance of many of the sights and attractions of Innsbruck.

Venice 27 December 2024

28 December 2024 / admin

Leaning Tower Venice 27.12.24

This morning we are off to Venice by train from Pesicheria del Garda to Venice. The train is a little late although the reasons are announced we are not too bothered. In Venice from the station we have a motor boat ride around to St Mark’s Square – repeating our visit from about 30 years ago. As it is a motor boat it is not permitted down the Grand Canal so we wander around another route. This morning we have a guided tour which walks us around some of the back canals which we did not visit last time and gives us an opportunity to see a little more of the city and be told of some of the history.

Our guide explains how the water system used to work with the squares having drains for rain water which then filter through the sand underneath to gather at the bottom of wells in each small square with each of the squares having one or two wells. In the base stone of each well there is a small dip to act as a drinking bowl for domestic animals which can be easily refilled from the well. This system is no longer used with all housing now connected to a mains system but this provided local water for many centuries.

We are taken through the former Greek area and visit the Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci which is a Greek Orthodox church. In view of its history which has an ornate interior, although photographs are not permitted within. Externally there is a leaning tower – providing you are looking from the right direction.

Gondolier 27.12.24

Our guide also explains that the famous gondolas are not symmetrical. The owner stands on one side of the boat and consequently were it to be the same on both sides they would not easily be able to proceed in a straight line. So the gondola is designed to counter the weight of the owner and is therefore shaped to offset his weight. The guide implies that the gondoliers therefore have to maintain their weight quite tightly until the gondola is replaced although I suspect that there is a tolerance of 10% or so. And the work keeps them fit I suppose.

We eventually return to St Mark’s Square where the tour ends. I had noted that down one of the streets there was a confluence of small restaurants and as before we only need something light – however the one we choose turned out not to be a good choice and lunch is disappointing. On our previous visit to Venice we did go to Harry’s bar and even that was disappointing – so our views of Venice have not really changed. Or we are just poor at choosing restaurants! We decamp to take a coffee along the main front and to watch people pass by before gathering to take a boat back to the rail station and return to Bardolino. Time to pack as tomorrow we move on.

There seems to be a real mix of operators into Venice with Italo seeming to have quite a few trains around – the local Open Access operator. It strikes me that perhaps the route simply cannot cope with the additional trains so everything runs late. I just do not understand why people should be allowed to make money using state assets – if the state owns something it should be entitled to all the commercial returns which are generated.

The official description for the day:

This morning is yet another highlight of our festive holiday. After breakfast we take a train to the magical floating city of Venice.

On arrival we enjoy a private boat transfer that takes us straight to the heart of Venice, St Mark’s Square, for a guided walking tour of Venice’s sumptuous attractions, including the Doge’s Palace, the Bridge of Sighs, and the Rialto Bridge.

With some free time after our tour, we could take a traditional gondola ride through the winding network of canals or catch a water taxi to the island of Murano, famed for its age-old glass-blowing techniques.

However, we may choose to simply walk beside the enchanting waterways, over tiny arched bridges and past Venetian palaces, soaking up the unique atmosphere of this timeless city.

We could also warm up in a cosy café overlooking St Mark’s Square, or along one of the streets which radiate out from here, with a cup of delicious cioccolata calda.

Franciacorta Winery 26 December 2024

27 December 2024 / admin

Al Rocol Winery 26.12.24

You may be asking what happened to day 4? It was Christmas Day and despite the bright weather outside we both decided to retire to our room for the day to catch up on some reading and resting as we have had some busy days so far.

I take a walk along the lake frontage this morning to the next door village of Cisano and observe some bird life on the lake, plus a church and the views across the lake. Our hotel is just in Bardolino but the Cisano village centre is actually closer as it is a few minutes walk whilst Bardolino is probably five minutes or so in the coach, let alone walking!

A little later our coach arrives for a trip of about an hour back westwards to the area of Franciacorta. Whilst this was always a vine growing area in about 1957 an entrepreneur investigated the classico method (Methode Champenoise) for producing a sparkling white wine following that classical method very closely – including the same grape varieties and subsequently pursuing formal DOGC approval which was achieved in 1996. With such accreditation there was rapid growth as more and more vineyards joined the arrangement and it now underpins much of the region’s activities.

At the Al Rocol vineyard the secondary fermentation in the bottle is still undertaken by turning the bottles in the racks manually to allow the sediment to gather in the neck of the bottle – I think it was implied that some places now have machines for this turning activity. Even more impressive sounding (although not seen) are the machines used at the end of the fermentation process. The bottles are inverted, the content of the neck is frozen and is then rapidly expelled by the gases in the wine. The bottles then have a small amount of wine added and the bottles are resealed for sale – that must move very quickly to prevent losses of the precious liquid contained therein. It is amazing how technology makes progress.

The vineyard also produces a range of other wines. The prime product, the sparkling Franciacorta is very clean and the one we tasted does not have the “biscuity” flavour which I often associate with champagne – I quite like it. The other wines are also good. This individual winery no longer ships to the UK (although they will ship to the USA) as a side effect of our leaving the EU they are not prepared for paper mountain needed. One of our party resides in Sweden and is able to place a significant order.

It is a family run business and we gather that “Mother” is in the kitchen preparing the excellent snacks which accompany our wine tasting whilst most of the full time employees are family members, with other staff being part time. This provision of decent snacks also brings to me the winery on the slopes of Mount Etna which provided a decent repast whilst wine tasting.

Unlike most vineyard visits we do not get to see the vines themselves, but at this time of year they would look pretty dead. We understand that there are about three large producers of Franciacorta wines and then a very large number of small producers all of a similar size to this one and all working to the same DOCG standards to ensure a consistent output between the wineries.

In mid-afternoon we return to Bardolino – again a quieter day – there is more free time on this tour than on others.

Adding the brochure description of the day:

Following a relaxed breakfast, we enjoy an excursion by coach to the Franciacorta wine region.

Here, we stop at a local winery for a tour that teaches us all about the production process followed by an expert-led tasting of the vineyard’s different vintages accompanied by local specialities.

Franciacorta is a small wine-producing area in Lombardy, northern Italy. It is famous for its high-quality sparkling wines, which are made very much in the image of Champagne. The Franciacorta wine region is located in the Brescia province, in the hills immediately south-east of the foot of Lake Iseo.

On the return to our hotel, tea and coffee and a selection of small pastries and cakes awaits, before we enjoy a gala dinner in the evening.

Sirmione 24 December 2024

26 December 2024 / admin

Lake Garda 24.12.24

The good news is that after the slightly dull weather so far the sun is shining this morning and the sky is blue. Additionally it is not cold so no woolly needed – and no special socks which can wait until later in the trip.

Our tour now moves to a slower pace as the initial outward journey has been completed. The small coach returns to take us to our destination today which is the other side of the lake – Sirmione. On arrival we have an additional boat trip around the town – it is disconnected from the remaining land by the former castle defences which we navigate at the end of the journey – our captain implies that the clearances are limited on either side – but experience is in his favour and we slide through without touching anything at all.

Our trip around the headland enables the captain to tell us a little of this history of the town and the somewhat astronomical prices for the residences as they are now. Maria Callas was a long term resident occupying a villa with some superb views over the lake. We are also shown bubbles rising from lake bed. We are told this is the source of prosecco – sadly not true – but in fact the supply of hot thermal waters which is one of the main draws for the tourists.

Once back on dry land we wander into town and make use of the shops for some supplies. Sirmione is a pretty little town. The Romans under Catullus had a construction at the northern end of the island/promontory whilst the more modern castle is at the other end of the island with a tiny land bridge. Sirmione is apparently Italy’s fourth largest tourist destination and I think I am pleased that we have come here at a time when it is much quieter than normal – it is pleasantly busy but not crowded.

Castle Sirmione 24.12.24

When we set out on the boat tour there was no wind as we had been warned that it might not happen. Whilst we were walking around the town centre we were not troubled by the wind but wanting some other photos I ventured to the eastern side of the island adjacent to the castle walls to find that there is now a cold wind whipping along that side – but from which we are completely protected by a small ridge in the town itself. We go into an attractive pottery shop but we are worried about transport home so do not indulge in any purchases – the cases will get thrown about.

Retracing our steps we sit down in a small café and enjoy some sunshine on our backs plus a pizza and salad – welcome sustenance but if anything it is nice to see a bright and sunny sky after the months of grey clouds at home.

After lunch we rejoin the coach for the return trip – I know we take a slightly different route than the one on which we came and it is noticeable that there an awful lot of vineyards on both sides of the road. Not surprisingly I soon doze off – some light exercise, food, warm sun and coach travel – all the ingredients for a quick snooze so it feels we are soon back at the hotel. The rest of the afternoon is free time, so a welcome rest and some reading.

Continuing with the Great Rail brochure description:

On Christmas Eve morning we travel to the enchanting lakeside town of Sirmione where there’s free time to look around.

Located at the southern end of Lake Garda, where the lakefront is almost sea-like, this medieval town is a pleasure to discover, bursting with history and charm. The town is entered via a drawbridge, over a water-filled moat, which surrounds the imposing Rocca Scaligera, a beautifully preserved 13th-century castle.

We may like to visit the castle for a view from its ramparts, or take a stroll through the lovely old quarter – where we could enjoy a coffee, a glass of wine and a light lunch at one of the characterful cafés or trattorias.

Alternatively, we may like to visit the Grotte di Catullo, the remains of one of the largest Roman villas in Italy.

We return to our hotel in Bardolino in the afternoon, where there is time to relax and maybe enjoy the superb facilities, before we celebrate Christmas Eve with a gala dinner at our hotel in the evening.

Turin to Lake Garda 23 December 2024

24 December 2024 / admin

Turin Xmas Calendar

Following breakfast, which included an unexpected assignment with a kettle to obtain a cup of tea, I take the metro to Porto Nuovo (which is the main station) and then walk to the main squares. Some attractive architecture along the way and an Advent calendar alongside the Cathedral.

The expectation of the squares being dressed for Christmas proved unfounded – I assume that they all finished at the weekend but at least this gave an opportunity to see and appreciate those buildings which were not clad in scaffolding of which there also seemed to be a lot in evidence. Turin has a famous shroud which is now believed to a creation of the Middle Ages and it is only on display from time to time so do not try and find it.

Turin decorated car

And amazingly some Italians decorate their cars as well.

The metro is €2 for a single journey with a flat fare and a ticket is needed to enter the station but on exit you simply approach the barrier gates and they open. There is only the one metro line but not enough time to travel to the extremities this morning. The line opened in 2006 and is a 750v dc third rail operation but photos prove impossible.

The group leave the hotel by coach for the trip to Porto Nuovo for the train to Milan and some of us are desperate to pick up food before the train’s departure. This becomes slightly farcical as we are travelling on a group ticket so we need to be checked through the barrier line together, we do manage it but then struggle to get all the bags stored out of the way of the eventual trolley with an unexpected snack, including wine, as we are travelling first class. So double rations!

We traverse the Northern Italian plains running at just under 300 km/h (around 186mph) when they can be bothered to display information between numerous adverts as we head to Milan. We reach a junction, possibly early, and are there so long that eventually there is an announcement explaining that we are awaiting a proceed signal. I believe that most of our journey was on the new 125km of line which opened back in 2009 some 7 years after construction commenced, amazingly speedy compared with HS2 on which I doubt I shall ever travel. I think the junction was where we returned to the historic network. Just think if we could build high speed rail that quickly. I wonder what their view is on bats in Italy?

Italian rail passenger management is even more stupid in Milan where we change trains. The exit from the inner concourse to the outer concourse has no ticket machines implying you can simply come and go apart from the numerous “heavies” who suddenly appear once you have exited and then refuse re-entry, which has to be via the ticket gates, which is not possible when travelling on a group ticket. Simply put gates on the exit so the ticket is scanned (making it obvious to non-ticket holders that you cannot leave the inner concourse) and sack the “heavies”.

After the excitement on the first journey we are much slower as we proceed from Milan Central to Peschiera del Garda, losing time continuously through the journey. Peschiera del Garda is situated at the southern end of Lake Garda with onward transit to our hotel in Bardolino using a small coach. There are Open Access operators on this section and I wonder if there are simply too many trains. On the small coach we pass Gardaland Park which is Italy’s premier amusement report and can be reached by a free shuttle bus service from the station. The southern end of Lake Garda is reportedly Italy’s fourth largest tourist area (after Venice, Rome and Florence).

Hotel Caesius has, on one side, views over the Lake – which are no doubt very attractive but on our side we have the car park which is somewhat less prepossessing! Never mind perhaps we will strike lucky in Innsbruck. (Perhaps we need a new surname so we get our room allocated first). We are here for five nights and need to preselect our meal choices for main course for dinner each night. I accept it is to control waste but this feels disappointing compared with our experience in Puglia earlier this year where there was an extensive buffet choice on a Rail Discoveries trip.

At least as we are here for a few days we can unpack 50% of our clothes and the room is a decent size and we can relax easily. Effectively two days of travelling can be tiring.

Once again I append the Great Rail brochure description:

After breakfast at our hotel, there’s a full morning and time over lunch to explore handsome Turin at leisure. This dignified city is an important centre of business, finance and technology, and is also a showcase of Baroque, Renaissance and modern architecture.

Fringed by the Italian Alps, the city’s wide boulevards and grand public squares are lined with enticing cafés and bars. Just a short walk from our hotel is a stylish pedestrianised shopping district.

In the mid-afternoon we continue our journey by rail into northern Italy, passing through Milan on our way south to Peschiera del Garda then by coach to the lakeside town of Bardolino, on beautiful Lake Garda, where we check into our 4-Star lakefront hotel for five nights. We are welcomed with a glass of prosecco before sitting down to a three-course dinner. 

Whilst in Bardolino, we stay in the gorgeous 4-Star Hotel Caesius Spa Resort.

Offering comfortable and bright rooms, 2 restaurants, 2 bars, a wine cellar, and a spa, this is truly a wonderful place to relax after a day of festivities.

This evening we enjoy a three-course dinner at the hotel.

London to Turin 22 December 2024

23 December 2024 / admin

Inevitably a long day but very little walking. After a 5:30 alarm call we descend to the hotel receptionist who kindly makes us a cup of coffee each before letting us out onto the St Pancras concourse where we join our fellow travellers before a quick shopping diversion to obtain some lunch.

The usual demonstration of how not to manage passengers is demonstrated by Eurostar at St Pancras, queuing for check in which could be open but is not; sending luggage, coats, belts through a scanning machine and humans too – yet this does not protect anyone as it is just a train and travellers going through similar tunnels in Japan or Europe are not subject to such scans. Borders do not require such scans – airports do to protect planes possibly – but not a train. Then keep everyone penned up with the train sat in the platform with both imminent departures then using the same platform access rather than spreading the load between platforms – simply wrong headed. This is so far from train travel as to be completely wrong. Once we depart Eurostar then serve the worst excuse for breakfast offered by anyone – Eurostar seem to think that 1/10th of a baguette is a generous breakfast portion. This is really parsimonious – is it any wonder that they have not eliminated flight travel by simply providing a proper rail service?

For reported security reasons we halt at Calais Frethun and lose even more minutes before arriving in Paris about 20 minutes late. The coach connection to Gare de Lyon appears to encounter just about every red light possible during the trip across Paris but the coach driver gets very close to the entrance and the onward TGV is berthed at the nearest platform to where we leave the coach. Once all heads are counted we are able to board, all making it to our seats with a few minutes to spare.

As we head further south the skies become greyer and eventually it starts to rain. Our train pauses once at a station – Macon – and then operationally before taking the single track section which comprises the last section of the route into Chambery, where our train terminates as the onward route suffered a rock fall over a year ago and the remedial work has not yet been completed so we will not go through the rail tunnel at Frejus. It has since re-opened.

Once we have transferred to a coach it gets steadily darker but we are obviously climbing up in the mountains and I wake from a snooze to see snow on the ground and more falling. Unlike rail our driver needs a 30 minute break once we are back in Italy which slows our onward progress to Turin. It is shame that the break was not scheduled during the inevitable wait over in Chambery.

We have managed to pass through France without eating a French meal having consumed nothing of substance for breakfast and an M&S chicken salad for lunch! By the time we reach Turin I am actually feeling hungry. Dinner takes some time to get organised so it is 9pm local time before we eat, which feels late. We are staying in the Hotel Lingotto which is located within the former Fiat factory with the test track on the roof, however we will be unable to visit it tomorrow as it is closed due to lack of staff.

Time for bed.

On this holiday we are travelling once again with Great Rail Journeys – therefore I feel that it is entirely reasonable to quote their description of this day from the brochure listing:

Today we set off on our magical festive holiday which combines two of Europe’s most delightful destinations – Lake Garda where we stay over Christmas, and the charming city of Innsbruck, a seasonal favourite.

Meeting at the London St Pancras, we travel on the Eurostar to Paris in Standard Premier Class. In Paris we change for the First Class service direct to Turin, on a scenic journey which passes the Alps, as we travel in comfort to the handsome Italian city of Turin. Here we spend the night in our hotel, the NH Lingotto Congress, has a surprising history which reflects the city’s heritage. Housed in the old Fiat Factory the hotel still has the Fiat test track on its roof.

The city has a dignified ambience and an artistic, cultural and epicurean heritage. We enjoy our first dinner together at our hotel restaurant this evening.