Month: September 2024

Crumlin Road Gaol 18.9.24

19 September 2024 / admin

Crumlin Road Gaol Tunnel

This morning we are going down – to the Crumlin Road Gaol – later replaced by the Maze as the main prison – but originating again in Victorian times for the housing of law breakers. So the early years are told as well as the later ones.

We are so early I am not sure it is even open when we arrive! Running to time this morning in contrast to yesterday but we note that the two miscreants are not present some of us would have ensured they were incarcerated!

There is a small introduction and a video and then the first major item is the tunnel which was built under the adjacent road to enable prisoners to be taken directly into the courts and return them to the jail once convicted. The tunnel is allegedly haunted although we saw no sign of a presence. Unlike the jail buildings which have been maintained the courts are in a terrible state and there have been several plans for them to become a hotel but so far there is no evidence of any work being underway.

C Wing

There was a central admin block on the road behind which there was a semi-circular area from which fanned out four wings and C wing has had the cells fitted out to tell the stories of those committed at various times of the prison’s history – with possibly more weight being given to the original Victorian era through the troubles.

At the end of the block there is cell used for those before hanging and then the hanging room itself. Only 17 prisoners were hanged over the life of the prison so it was not a regular event of any form.

Jackie is particularly struck by reference to the Pierrepoints, the family where various members were the official British executioners. There are photographs of various family members who were involved in the hangings.

Westland helicopter

We do not return on the main coach but decide to take the Hop on Hop off bus for a circular tour of the City – this repeats the trip we took on Monday morning – but by choosing the other side of the coach we are able to get pictures of some of the other murals which was not possible earlier in the week. It does not quite visit all of them – but we do manage to get another selection of pictures.

Samson and Goliath

Dominating the Belfast skyline and a reference point for every television series set in the area are the twin cranes of Samson and Goliath which cannot be missed when looking around and so cannot be omitted from this record of our visit.

Dinner tonight is even closer to the hotel – The Muddlers Club – a Michelin star restaurant which has been delivering excellent meals for around 10 years. Whilst last night was tonight just had that star touch with better (well richer) sauces and another fine piece of beef.

Our return journey is not until late on Thursday so we have time for a lunch before we return and settle on Six by Nico – a small chain which changes their menu every month or so – this month is a Japanese based meal and it was excellent.

The return journey is marginally delayed by a late inward flight. We find from fellow travellers that there have been various messages during the day and the flight number has been changed – but we are only a little late once we reach the ground – and I find the two missing luggage belts at T5 – belts 1 and 2 are for domestic flights and they are in a separate hall from the main international arrivals – the last time we came through I noted the belt numbers started at 3 and wondered why that might be – and now I know.

Giant’s Causeway 17.9.24

18 September 2024 / admin

Giant’s Causeway

A full Ulster fry this morning – black and white puddings – to get the day off to a powerful start, well done Ramada.

We are heading up the northern coast this morning to visit the Giant’s Causeway – allegedly a path for the giants between Ireland and Scotland. On arrival we are advised we cannot have the full experience today and I had the thought it was closed – but no – the guide was simply saying that the weather – just about dry but heavily overcast – was a far from typical day as we should normally enjoy rain and winds for the full experience.

The visitor centre is on the top of the hill along way up from the shore but we are blessed with two battery powered buses running up and down the main route between the two points. As we are National Trust members there is no fare – non-members are charged a pound each way. The walk down is probably about 20 minutes and somewhat more coming up.

Although it might not be raining the stones are obviously uneven and can be slippery so care needs to be taken. I decide that I can manage it – and manage to get onto them – but then suddenly find I am falling and hit my back heavily on a stone. More winded than anything so stay still when a kind gentleman offers assistance and I can remove camera and backpack and slowly right myself. And my back is painful! Probably have a nice bruise.

Giant’s Causeway

Once upright I rove around the drier stones taking numerous photographs and hopefully one or two of them will be worthwhile – including the sea breaking on the further stones.

Our journey today is disrupted as two of the party are nearly 30 minutes late to rejoin the coach for the return journey – which cuts the time available and is completely disrespectful of the tour team and the other passengers. We had returned to the top and consumed a tasty sausage roll and still made the coach before the appointed time – so you can only wonder what they were doing.

However it did provide time to inspect this rather fine example of a Victorian post box.

Victoria Post Box

Our return journey is via the coast road and we have the opportunity of seeing a number of small villages and some minor remnants of some industrial railway lines used for transporting limestone from various quarries to waiting ships – another industry which has vanished.

Four Swans Ballycastle

I must admit that the countryside is devoid of much evidence of disruption and looks like it is dedicated to high quality dairy farming with cows and sheep everywhere. It is attractive rolling countryside and the little towns around the various bays each seem to have a sandy beach and attractive outlook. We are unable to visit the rope bridge (it was never on the published list – but might have been possible with a little more time). There is time for some refreshment in Ballycastle where I manage to consume some Guinness and admire the Four Swans.

When we reach Larne which is now the ferry port and I can see a lighthouse in the sea – but it is too close to be on the Scottish coast which we have seen in the very far murky distance earlier – possibly it is the East Maidens lighthouse. We head back past Carrickfergus into Belfast more or less on time, despite the earlier delay.

Dinner this evening is in the Great Room which is within the Merchant Hotel, allegedly the most expensive hotel in town. This was originally the banking hall for the Ulster Bank and the room has been beautifully restored a few years ago. The quality of the food matches those of the surroundings and we enjoy an excellent meal. I am particularly taken by the desert combining cherry and goat’s cheese – the latter cutting through the sweetness of the former, plus too much chocolate.

An inspection in the mirror shows no bruise on my back – just a continuing pain. I shall hope it recovers soon.

Belfast 16.9.24

17 September 2024 / admin

Stormont

This should be day 2 of our holiday in Belfast waking in our hotel room followed by a full Irish. However air traffic control said no to our flight yesterday and so we left home at 4 am. We are soon through security and depart on time.

At Belfast City Airport we are met by the local Newmarket representative and we are soon at the hotel and can check in, lose our cases and we are ready to head off for a City tour as part of a group of 48 most of whom did make it yesterday one way or another.

Belfast is a Victorian city and contains some impressive buildings. The City enjoyed huge prosperity during late Victoria times riding the benefits of the linen industry and then ship building with the construction of the White Star ocean liners among many others driving the rises in finances.

The subsequent history of the area was dominated by the religious alignments of the residents plus the steady decay of those two industries, even whilst we are in Belfast it is announced that once again that the Harland and Wolff holding company is going into administration, although the yard itself has orders for at least three warships so may well survive under new owners following a period of administration.

However the last 25 years have brought marked change. The Blair government’s greatest legacy is probably the Good Friday agreement which set forth a devolved coalition administration – both sides have to at least work together and the agreement allows the voters to eventually choose to join the rest of Ireland which since Brexit seems even more likely, particularly as the voter demographics have changed over recent years.

The tour opens with a visit to Stormont where, as part of the reforms and opening up, visitors now have access to the area immediately in front of the Parliament building as can be seen above. One matter which I find disappointing – as a child I was taken by my parents to see the front door of No 10. Now that is denied to the children of today and it is a shame that the openness in NI cannot be reflected in London.

Our journey around the City continues with the former shipyards which have seen the construction of a new Arena, the Titanic museum, conversion of the former paint shops into film studios responsible (amongst much else) for Game of Thrones and so on.

Alongside this new the old has been revitalised. We are staying the Cathedral Quarter and even on a Monday night there is music emanating from at least one bar close by – and other bars on other nights as if someone has planned a rota on different evenings. There are many magnificent Victorian buildings. Within City Hall there is a series of displays telling the history of the City, plus a café, although the quality of scones is not as good as the exhibits.

Titanic Museum

The afternoon is dedicated to the Titanic Museum telling her history through construction, sailing, destruction, discovery and how to have enough lifeboats for those on board. They try hard to convey the shipyard during construction using a “ride” which was no doubt the subject of much planning – but little can convey the reality and I am not sure it succeeds. Such environments no longer really exist and indeed that way working no longer exists.

Albert Memorial

Being a Victorian City also meant Albert and the Albert Clock is the local memorial to him. It does in fact lean slightly – it is not just my photography!

Dinner this evening is at Taylor and Clay – a steak restaurant along from where we are staying and we have an excellent steak each. The chateaubriand were all large cuts and would need three or four people to do justice to them but the steaks were all excellently cooked and it was a simple walk back via the Albert Clock to our hotel.

Queen Anne 31.8.24

1 September 2024 / admin

DFDS Cross Channel Ferry

Today we are at sea – all day with docking in Southampton due in the early hours of Sunday morning. If anything looking out of the windows at time are progress not only seems glacial – more like non-existent. I assume we are moving forwards but we really are moving very gingerly – the average will be under 10 knots for this journey.

To ensure we are au fait with the dining options we go to the Artisans Foodhall for breakfast – it is of course simply a renamed buffet and here I sense a real design problem. The counters are set high and plates are all passed over it with all food being served by the chefs. Fine – except that the plates are pretty warm and we have seen a lot of people this week on board using walkers and wheelchairs who simply cannot reach that high (and can probably not so easily manage a hot plate). I assume the high level design emanates post-covid – but to me it feels like a step backwards. However I do get both black and white pudding – which is rare anywhere else – so well done Cunard.

White Cliffs Dover

Regrettably the fine weather has vanished and it is grey and overcast outside; if it were not for the excessive number of windmills on the various horizons it is similar to being mid-Pacific – although as the day progresses we get views of coast lines and indeed intermittent 4G signals enabling a partial football score – until the signal is lost!

We have not previously visited the Observation Deck so head up there – it is open air and as we soon find it is the only location onboard where smoking is permitted – well there has to be somewhere! We do some reading but head elsewhere in favour of fresh air after a while. I think we have seen most of the ship on our various peregrinations around the boat. We did plan a burger on the Pavilion Deck – which is the main pool area – but it is both busy and noisy so decide on a light lunch up in the Grills restaurant.

Appealing activities were limited this morning but we have a busy afternoon. Jackie does her packing and then heads off to Bingo. I make use of the balcony – the seats are comfortable and I can listen to some podcasts and also observe the white cliffs of Dover as we are proceeding (still pretty slowly) along past Dover and Folkestone – with cross channel ferries crossing in front of us at one stage.

I then attend to some of my packing and then I attempt to find out progress in Brentford of the Southampton team – once we go 1-0 down I am fed up and almost glad that we lose the signal. I then join Jackie for some music in the Queen’s Room before attending most of the evening performance in the Royal Court theatre – but it is not as enthralling as “Brief Encounter” so depart for dinner.

Come Sunday morning we are docked and an early breakfast beckons before we can disembark, find our suitcases and car and return home.