Holidays and Other Excursions

Tag: Innsbruck

Italy / Austria Homeward

OBB 1116-267 2.1.25

OBB 1116-267 2.1.25

This actually covers three days after the action previously recorded.  The first day was entirely free in Innsbruck and we largely stayed in our room reading and resting – we had a pizza one day when we were out and about but generally had seen nothing we wanted to revisit in the cold.  However the opportunity existed.

The second day is traversing Austria and Germany.  DB Rail is at the moment reckoned to be poorly performing and we are subjected to this.  Our first train to Munich is not a problem although a little late if I recall correctly and we can watch the countryside pass by.  In Munich the train is in the platform but like some UK operators getting passengers boarded gently and steadily is not accepted and we have a last minute dash – which with heavy suitcases is not welcome.  The service onwards to Cologne is soon being undertaken in the dark (so reading and listening time) until we come to a halt.  The driver on a previous train had seen something on the track and so we halt whilst an investigation is undertaken.  Inevitably this takes quite a bit of time and as the report may have been a person the caution is understandable.  There is no opportunity to recover the time.

The final day is a service from Cologne to Brussels which also runs late – so we are a little worried over our connection time given the Eurostar approach to travellers.  No need to worry as the inward train to Brussels was also late and so we get through security and are penned up in an area without enough seats for those travelling for ages.  The train is there but we are not allowed to board it.  Then they undertake loading the priority passengers – understandable but we spend ages in a queue and it seems like they are already letting in passengers for the following service (at least so it is implied).  I regret to say that once again this is not the way that anyone should be treating international rail passengers.  These days I am not sure cattle would be allowed to travel like this.  Eurostar really need to take a step back and find a better way of ensuring that passengers are respected.

Inevitably a late departure means a late arrival and I thought that we would have a nice simple connection into the service home from Waterloo (which is only hourly because of the poor service on our local line).  I make my way to the right entrance at Kings Cross for the Underground – this means going right to the front of the old station entrance which was swept away a couple of decades ago and taking the lift down (plus a few steps).  The escalator delivers us to the right platform and it is across on the level from Victoria line to Bakerloo at Oxford Circus.  The watch is ticking.

We head up the escalators at Waterloo and although it is almost on the hour our train is on the other side of the barrier with the doors open – we dive through and onto the first coach.  The train departs about three late.  The guard comes through and I thank him and explain that we are lucky to catch it.  He had to deal with a late arriving disabled passenger further forward and so was loading a wheelchair when he should have been signalling departure.  Our driver however is up to the challenge and observing limits is able to recover the time dropped at Waterloo by the time we roll into Woking.  Once we are at Guildford It is then a normal wander across to another platform for the meander home.  Another holiday completed.

Brochure descriptions:

Day 11:

After a delicious hotel breakfast, enjoy a day at leisure to explore Innsbruck, perhaps taking a walk beside the Inn river or past the fountains and pavilion of the Innsbrucker Hofgarten, landscaped royal palace gardens which date from the early 15th century.

Innsbruck is a city of many delightful churches, including the baroque cathedral with its famous Madonna and Child painting by Lukas Cranach the Elder, as well as the gothic Hofkirche.

Another notable architectural wonder in Innsbruck’s Altstadt is the Golden Roof, a glorious copper-tiled roof built in 1500 to mark the occasion of the marriage of Maximilian I to Bianca Maria Sforza.

Day 12:

This morning, we board the train down the Inn valley to Munich, where we change trains and continue to Cologne.

Passing through the historic cities of Augsburg and Ulm, and fairy-tale towns such as Schwäbisch Gmünd and Limberg and der Lahn, we then arrive at our Rhine-side destination of Cologne, dominated by its imposing, twin-spired Gothic cathedral.

Day 13:

After breakfast today our wonderful festive tour concludes as we travel from Cologne to Brussels, before catching our final train, the Eurostar, to London St Pancras.

On arrival at St Pancras we say farewell to our travelling companions and recall the winter wonders we have witnessed in Italy and Austria.

 

Stubaitalbahn 31 December 2024

Church from Stubaitalbahn 31.12.24

Church from Stubaitalbahn 31.12.24

We are nearing the end of the holiday today and we are going to travel on the Stubaitalbahn which these days is an 18km tram trip into rural areas.  The first section now uses local tram tracks but as we leave the town and commence climbing it is then branch line status running to Fulpmes.  The line was opened in 1904 so has seen service now for over 120 years and seems well used with modern stock as it winds its way round and through villages – we see at least three sides on one particular church spire as we travel.  The service frequency on the last part of the line is relatively low with some trams turning around at an intermediate stop.

Reaching the destination it looks cold outside and so we choose to sit in the tram until the return journey commences – but there is ice and falls are not a good idea.

Bergisel ski jump 31.12.24

Bergisel ski jump 31.12.24

Also visible is the Bergisel ski jump which is the latest of a series of ski jumps – this one was completed in 2003 replacing the version used for the 1976 Winter Olympics.  It is one of the major ski jumps in the World being part of the “Four Hills Tournament”.

The best bit of the return journey which I work out as we descend it is that in Innsbruck the trams appear to operate around a one way loop, so that we can leave the tram not very far at all from the hotel and whilst it takes a few minutes to establish bearings (so much easier with maps on mobile phones these days) we can visit a café just across the road from the hotel and consume some warming vittels and then dive straight back into the hotel.

By and large I think we have come to the conclusion that holidays with snow and ice and not suitable for us – the risk / reward ratio does not seem to work well and I am glad that our time in Italy on this trip was not (for us) particularly cold – indeed in Sirmione out of the wind it was pleasant and (unlike the summer) not overcrowded.

And the brochure extract says:

Our New Year celebrations begin with a journey through the wintry scenery of the Stubai Valley aboard the narrow-gauge Stubaitalbahn.

From Innsbruck, it winds up through gentle meadows, providing great views of the city below. Passing sleepy villages, the route then plunges into a landscape of icy forests and alpine meadows laden with snow, before winding its way down to the peaceful valley town of Fulpmes.

The Stubai Valley Railway – Stubaitalbahn, in the native tongue – was opened in 1904 and has grown in passenger numbers ever since, no doubt owed to the beautiful scenery it enjoys on its one hour trip from Fulpmes to Innsbruck. Along the journey, the train passes many spectacular sights including the Mutters and Kreither viaduct.

Innsbruck 30 December 2024

Golden Roof Innsbruck 30.12.24

Golden Roof Innsbruck 30.12.24

A walking tour of Innsbruck this morning.  As with the majority of our trip the sun is shining and therefore it is not as cold as we feared it might be.  Indeed it is pleasant weather to be wandering around although equally glad to return to the warm if somewhat small hotel room at the end of the morning.

Innsbruck, essentially due to the Brenner pass immediately to the south, has always been the gateway between northern and southern Europe and was therefore a key point to control over long periods as it was possible to extract money from those passing with goods for trading in both directions.

Originally at the heart of Habsburg Empire the city then came under the Archdukes of Austria.  A period as part of Bavaria followed until return to Austria in 1814.    However being such an important trade route has led to the city always been prosperous even if owing allegiance to new rulers.

A key sight in the city and indeed its symbol is the “Golden Roof” which was completed to mark the wedding of the Emperor Maximilian I to Bianca Maria Stroza in 1500 with the balcony being used by the Emperor and his new wife to observe the festivals, tournaments and activities in the square below.  The Emperor was King of the Romans from 1486 and Holy Roman Emperor from 1508 until his death in 1519.  He was a particularly able warlord.  This was a period when the ruler has sway over much of what is now Italy and Germany whilst marriages led to his grandson taking the thrones of Castile and Aragon – showing just how far the tentacles of the Hapsburg empire stretched.

Innsbruck Cathedral 30.12.24

Innsbruck Cathedral 30.12.24

We are also able to go inside the Cathedral which was constructed following some earthquakes between 1716 and 1724 when it was dedicated.  In December 1944 Innsbruck suffered significant bomb damage which caused destruction of parts of the Cathedral and was restored by 1950 becoming a Cathedral in 1964.  Further repair and reconstruction work was undertaken between 1991 and 1993 with a new dedication service in October 1993.

We decide that a trip up in the local ski lift holds little attraction following the heights achieved yesterday.   Prior to arrival much has been made of the light show in the gardens but when we pass it on the walking tour we see that it appears mainly geared towards children and so decide against going out in the evening.  During the day the snow is melting slightly but after dark it freezes and again and one of the party has a fall when they do visit the illuminations and that proves to us it is better to be safe than sorry – we thought that it might be slightly slippery and bound to be worse if it freezes slightly having thawed during the day.  We did not want to come back from the holiday bruised and bandaged.  I have no doubt that it is worth seeing – but we would prefer to avoid any accidents.

And for reference here is the brochure description:

We wake up with the wintry mountains looking on to festive Innsbruck. The gentle bustle of picture-perfect streets and the seasonal weather combine to charming effect on this enchanting day full of anticipation.

After breakfast, we enjoy a guided walking tour of beautiful Innsbruck, followed by a leisurely afternoon during which we can explore further.

With a remarkably picturesque medieval centre, the town is dotted with impressive buildings, including Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse. Here, a shimmering golden Habsburg roof, the ornate Hölbling house and the imposing 14th-century watchtower look out over buildings with arched arcaded frontages.

When it goes dark, LUMAGICA Innsbruck invites you to take a literally illuminating walk in the Hofgarten – for the fifth time in a row. Rainbow (colours), flowers and butterflies as well as abstract elements and interactive light installations line the approximately one kilometre long circular path.

Verona and onto Innsbruck 28 December 2024

Juliet Balcony Verona 28.12.24

Juliet Balcony Verona 28.12.24

With our luggage on its way to Austria we still have another trip in Italy.  Our coach takes us to Verona and again the weather is bright and certainly not cold.  The coach takes about an hour before we have a few minutes going round in a circle to find the local guide.  The coach then perambulates around the outer part of the town showing us the walls before dropping us alongside the river Adige which we cross into the town centre.

The centre of Verona is small and has a some attractive architecture with a main market square which is very busy and an adjacent square in the centre of which is a statue of Dante.  The entire town appears quite attractive to wander around.  It seems pretty busy today.

The main purpose for us to visit Verona (and likewise for many large numbers) is the balcony attributed to Juliet.  Of course the reality is vastly different with the balcony itself only dating back to the early 20th Century.  Shakespeare’s story appears to derive from a poem published in 1562 written by Arthur Brooke which was using stories from Italian writers who used the enmity between the Cappelletti and Montecchi families.  The house dates back to the 13th century and has been long known as Juliet’s house.  However there is no truth in the stories – or is there?

From Verona we catch a train which will ascend over the Brenner pass and take us to Innsbruck.  One day (and I am not sure it will be in my lifetime) there will be a huge tunnel under the Alps which will take the trains but until then our ascent is not particularly rapid as it is steep and although electrified the other services dictate the pace.  Similar restrictions apply to the descent.  Given the time of year the latter part of the journey is in the dark but even we can tell that there has been a significant snow fall in the recent past and the hills at least will be white when we can see them on the morrow.

Our new hotel is situated in the centre of Innsbruck adjacent to the market and the river.  Hotel reception is however not briefed.  The receptionist asks us to hand over our passports – fair enough – and then asks us to select our dinner – and yet we did that some time ago and it has been sent through already.  Then she sends us away from the desk and refuses to hand over the room keys – which is mismanagement of the highest order – they have our names on the passports and should exchange one for the other.  Eventually sense is seen and we ascend to our room where our cases have safely arrived but the room itself is regrettably less impressive – no view and one of those rooms where I sit still whilst Jackie unpacks and vice versa.  The quality of dinner is an improvement despite the need to make choices and so we are on the swings and roundabouts again.

The brochure description of the day:

Leaving Lake Garda behind, we take the coach to Verona, where we enjoy a guided tour of a city filled with Roman ruins, medieval buildings, Italian culture and romance, and famous as the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet.

In a UNESCO World Heritage-listed city centre, we visit Juliet’s iconic balcony and the Roman arena, an open-air venue still used for performances today, where some free time could lend itself to indulging in lunch in one of the many restaurants around Piazza Brà.

In mid-afternoon, we board the train for a direct journey to Innsbruck in Austria. This spectacular route through the Alps reveals some magical wintry scenes as we leave Italy by the Brenner Pass.

Located in the Inn Valley, beneath the unique backdrop of the Alps, Innsbruck is known for its Imperial buildings and quaint Old Town, which reflects the city’s historic and cultural past through its wonderful Renaissance, Baroque and traditional Tyrolean architecture. At this time of year though, it’s a winter wonderland of snow-frosted mountains, cosy cafés and sugar-dusted trees.

Our hotel in central Innsbruck looks out to the majestic snow-capped peaks of the Austrian Alps. We will be staying at The Hotel Innsbruck, situated in the heart of the Old Town, within walking distance of many of the sights and attractions of Innsbruck.