Category: UK Holidays (Page 1 of 3)

Crumlin Road Gaol 18.9.24

19 September 2024 / admin

Crumlin Road Gaol Tunnel

This morning we are going down – to the Crumlin Road Gaol – later replaced by the Maze as the main prison – but originating again in Victorian times for the housing of law breakers. So the early years are told as well as the later ones.

We are so early I am not sure it is even open when we arrive! Running to time this morning in contrast to yesterday but we note that the two miscreants are not present some of us would have ensured they were incarcerated!

There is a small introduction and a video and then the first major item is the tunnel which was built under the adjacent road to enable prisoners to be taken directly into the courts and return them to the jail once convicted. The tunnel is allegedly haunted although we saw no sign of a presence. Unlike the jail buildings which have been maintained the courts are in a terrible state and there have been several plans for them to become a hotel but so far there is no evidence of any work being underway.

C Wing

There was a central admin block on the road behind which there was a semi-circular area from which fanned out four wings and C wing has had the cells fitted out to tell the stories of those committed at various times of the prison’s history – with possibly more weight being given to the original Victorian era through the troubles.

At the end of the block there is cell used for those before hanging and then the hanging room itself. Only 17 prisoners were hanged over the life of the prison so it was not a regular event of any form.

Jackie is particularly struck by reference to the Pierrepoints, the family where various members were the official British executioners. There are photographs of various family members who were involved in the hangings.

Westland helicopter

We do not return on the main coach but decide to take the Hop on Hop off bus for a circular tour of the City – this repeats the trip we took on Monday morning – but by choosing the other side of the coach we are able to get pictures of some of the other murals which was not possible earlier in the week. It does not quite visit all of them – but we do manage to get another selection of pictures.

Samson and Goliath

Dominating the Belfast skyline and a reference point for every television series set in the area are the twin cranes of Samson and Goliath which cannot be missed when looking around and so cannot be omitted from this record of our visit.

Dinner tonight is even closer to the hotel – The Muddlers Club – a Michelin star restaurant which has been delivering excellent meals for around 10 years. Whilst last night was tonight just had that star touch with better (well richer) sauces and another fine piece of beef.

Our return journey is not until late on Thursday so we have time for a lunch before we return and settle on Six by Nico – a small chain which changes their menu every month or so – this month is a Japanese based meal and it was excellent.

The return journey is marginally delayed by a late inward flight. We find from fellow travellers that there have been various messages during the day and the flight number has been changed – but we are only a little late once we reach the ground – and I find the two missing luggage belts at T5 – belts 1 and 2 are for domestic flights and they are in a separate hall from the main international arrivals – the last time we came through I noted the belt numbers started at 3 and wondered why that might be – and now I know.

Giant’s Causeway 17.9.24

18 September 2024 / admin

Giant’s Causeway

A full Ulster fry this morning – black and white puddings – to get the day off to a powerful start, well done Ramada.

We are heading up the northern coast this morning to visit the Giant’s Causeway – allegedly a path for the giants between Ireland and Scotland. On arrival we are advised we cannot have the full experience today and I had the thought it was closed – but no – the guide was simply saying that the weather – just about dry but heavily overcast – was a far from typical day as we should normally enjoy rain and winds for the full experience.

The visitor centre is on the top of the hill along way up from the shore but we are blessed with two battery powered buses running up and down the main route between the two points. As we are National Trust members there is no fare – non-members are charged a pound each way. The walk down is probably about 20 minutes and somewhat more coming up.

Although it might not be raining the stones are obviously uneven and can be slippery so care needs to be taken. I decide that I can manage it – and manage to get onto them – but then suddenly find I am falling and hit my back heavily on a stone. More winded than anything so stay still when a kind gentleman offers assistance and I can remove camera and backpack and slowly right myself. And my back is painful! Probably have a nice bruise.

Giant’s Causeway

Once upright I rove around the drier stones taking numerous photographs and hopefully one or two of them will be worthwhile – including the sea breaking on the further stones.

Our journey today is disrupted as two of the party are nearly 30 minutes late to rejoin the coach for the return journey – which cuts the time available and is completely disrespectful of the tour team and the other passengers. We had returned to the top and consumed a tasty sausage roll and still made the coach before the appointed time – so you can only wonder what they were doing.

However it did provide time to inspect this rather fine example of a Victorian post box.

Victoria Post Box

Our return journey is via the coast road and we have the opportunity of seeing a number of small villages and some minor remnants of some industrial railway lines used for transporting limestone from various quarries to waiting ships – another industry which has vanished.

Four Swans Ballycastle

I must admit that the countryside is devoid of much evidence of disruption and looks like it is dedicated to high quality dairy farming with cows and sheep everywhere. It is attractive rolling countryside and the little towns around the various bays each seem to have a sandy beach and attractive outlook. We are unable to visit the rope bridge (it was never on the published list – but might have been possible with a little more time). There is time for some refreshment in Ballycastle where I manage to consume some Guinness and admire the Four Swans.

When we reach Larne which is now the ferry port and I can see a lighthouse in the sea – but it is too close to be on the Scottish coast which we have seen in the very far murky distance earlier – possibly it is the East Maidens lighthouse. We head back past Carrickfergus into Belfast more or less on time, despite the earlier delay.

Dinner this evening is in the Great Room which is within the Merchant Hotel, allegedly the most expensive hotel in town. This was originally the banking hall for the Ulster Bank and the room has been beautifully restored a few years ago. The quality of the food matches those of the surroundings and we enjoy an excellent meal. I am particularly taken by the desert combining cherry and goat’s cheese – the latter cutting through the sweetness of the former, plus too much chocolate.

An inspection in the mirror shows no bruise on my back – just a continuing pain. I shall hope it recovers soon.

Belfast 16.9.24

17 September 2024 / admin

Stormont

This should be day 2 of our holiday in Belfast waking in our hotel room followed by a full Irish. However air traffic control said no to our flight yesterday and so we left home at 4 am. We are soon through security and depart on time.

At Belfast City Airport we are met by the local Newmarket representative and we are soon at the hotel and can check in, lose our cases and we are ready to head off for a City tour as part of a group of 48 most of whom did make it yesterday one way or another.

Belfast is a Victorian city and contains some impressive buildings. The City enjoyed huge prosperity during late Victoria times riding the benefits of the linen industry and then ship building with the construction of the White Star ocean liners among many others driving the rises in finances.

The subsequent history of the area was dominated by the religious alignments of the residents plus the steady decay of those two industries, even whilst we are in Belfast it is announced that once again that the Harland and Wolff holding company is going into administration, although the yard itself has orders for at least three warships so may well survive under new owners following a period of administration.

However the last 25 years have brought marked change. The Blair government’s greatest legacy is probably the Good Friday agreement which set forth a devolved coalition administration – both sides have to at least work together and the agreement allows the voters to eventually choose to join the rest of Ireland which since Brexit seems even more likely, particularly as the voter demographics have changed over recent years.

The tour opens with a visit to Stormont where, as part of the reforms and opening up, visitors now have access to the area immediately in front of the Parliament building as can be seen above. One matter which I find disappointing – as a child I was taken by my parents to see the front door of No 10. Now that is denied to the children of today and it is a shame that the openness in NI cannot be reflected in London.

Our journey around the City continues with the former shipyards which have seen the construction of a new Arena, the Titanic museum, conversion of the former paint shops into film studios responsible (amongst much else) for Game of Thrones and so on.

Alongside this new the old has been revitalised. We are staying the Cathedral Quarter and even on a Monday night there is music emanating from at least one bar close by – and other bars on other nights as if someone has planned a rota on different evenings. There are many magnificent Victorian buildings. Within City Hall there is a series of displays telling the history of the City, plus a café, although the quality of scones is not as good as the exhibits.

Titanic Museum

The afternoon is dedicated to the Titanic Museum telling her history through construction, sailing, destruction, discovery and how to have enough lifeboats for those on board. They try hard to convey the shipyard during construction using a “ride” which was no doubt the subject of much planning – but little can convey the reality and I am not sure it succeeds. Such environments no longer really exist and indeed that way working no longer exists.

Albert Memorial

Being a Victorian City also meant Albert and the Albert Clock is the local memorial to him. It does in fact lean slightly – it is not just my photography!

Dinner this evening is at Taylor and Clay – a steak restaurant along from where we are staying and we have an excellent steak each. The chateaubriand were all large cuts and would need three or four people to do justice to them but the steaks were all excellently cooked and it was a simple walk back via the Albert Clock to our hotel.

Welshpool and Llanfair 29.6.24

30 June 2024 / admin

ZB.2 ‘Zillertal’ footplate

Following another excellent breakfast it is time to start our homeward journey. Having found the right way out of the hotel by decent roads yesterday I follow the same route today and then we head towards Llanfair Caerinion which is the base of the Welshpool and Llanfair Railway.

My last visit here was in 1978 with Geoff – and whilst parts of the railway have improved the gentle rolling scenery remains unchanged. Indeed the biggest improvements are at Welshpool where there is now a proper station building and facilities and an exhibition building which we do not have time to visit.

The staff are all very friendly and despite threatening rain we manage to stay dry. I was kindly invited onto the footplate of ZB.2 ‘Zillertal’ which is our locomotive today – by someone who was probably not born when I last visited. The highlight of the trip is the climb out of Welshpool on the return as the loco has to work hard ascending Golfa Bank. Traffic all appears end to end today – brief pauses at some of the intermediate stations do not seem to have any traffic.

ZB.2 ‘Zillertal’

Our onward journey is to Ettington Park near Stratford upon Avon which we have visited before. Aspects of the bar and drinks service are a little disappointing but the surroundings are very nice. On the way the M6 signs are being poorly managed causing delays and inconsistencies – I also get flashed but no penalty notice ever turned up.

Finally on the Sunday we head onwards to home.

Llangollen Railway & Meanderings 28.6.24

29 June 2024 / admin

Hellfire Pass

Jackie decides not to move far today and I set off first to drive around Lake Vyrnwy which takes 35 or 40 minutes. My next task is to find the way out without using that narrow little road we used on the inward journey and I find that the signposted route consists of fairly normal roads. Ignore the satnav folks!

My plans for today had originally been quite extensive – but given recent driving I know that the AA times simply are not possible and so visiting both the Talyllyn and Llangollen railways was going to be an almost impossible ask as the traffic simply does not travel fast enough (well to ensure I managed both trains and not wanting too long a day).

My first target is the Bwlch-y-Groes pass, also known as the Hellfire Pass with the uphill section from the south having historic uses as a test climb for new Austin cars before WWII. I find the route and I am pleased that I can see to near the summit and there is nothing coming the other way so I am able to reach the top without any problems.

The descent towards Bala is less spectacular – but had the drawbacks of numerous (well 5) vehicles coming the other way. For 4 of these I am the one to have to find space to pull over – the first being most threatening – a tractor with mowers mounted being wider than normal – but I actually find a pull off and can watch it advancing up the hillside and can stay well off the road until it has passed.

Regrettably the Bala Lake Railway is not operating today and so cannot be visited on this tour and must await a future visit.

When we visited the Llangollen Railway 10 years ago they told us they were on the brink of opening the line into Corwen but were then terminating at Carrog. So today I drive to Carrog to park and then do the journey over the now opened line into Corwen – where I eventually buy a ticket before returning. Buying a simple ticket is so difficult – nothing as simple as an Edmondson card ticket these days – I understand the till and computer records – but there was a queue and I missed the loco running around whilst waiting to be served. Annoying.

Carrog – 47+5

In common with other railways these days off peak services are noted as diesel hauled so I am somewhat surprised to find a long train hauled by a class 47 – I was expecting a small multiple unit. However the loadings seem to justify the length of train and the loco duly runs around the coaches to return me to Carrog and everyone else to Llangollen I assume.

I return by a slightly more direct route to Lake Vyrnwy – although not quite the route I had planned as I miss a turning at one point, but return much earlier than if I had tried my somewhat more complex outing today.

Vale of Rheidol 27.6.24

28 June 2024 / admin

No 7 VoR

We travel further down the coast this morning, again with the top down, to Aberystwyth and the terminus of the Vale of Rheidol railway. This has been transformed in recent years. Since my last visit (undocumented) a couple of years ago they have opened a museum which I wander around. There is a mixed collection of locomotives and other stock – at the time of my visit it includes the Dukedog from the Bluebell, a WHR Garratt plus other locos – but it is an interesting collection and well housed.

The floor is notable as it is made of small wooden blocks which are removable and it means that tracks can be laid to take rails which can then be any gauge allowing a huge and varied range of exhibits over the years – in a light and spacious environment. Externally there is a small segment from London Bridge which was moved here for preservation when the station was rebuilt. It is all a long way from the BR owned line I first visited in 1976.

Whilst the first part of the line remains unexciting further up the closed in nature was eased many years ago by some tree clearance and there are still some great views plus the hard work of the locomotive as it ascends the gradients and tight curves is very obvious as we wind up to Devil’s Bridge. Less has changed here – although far more exists than in 1976 – but then it is not long since my last visit.

On the return trip we have a discussion with other passengers who are relatively local residents as far as we can gather.

Our onward journey is to Lake Vyrnwy in mid-Wales and is uneventful until the sat nav decides to make use of a very narrow road with grass growing in the centre of the single track with not much in the way of passing places. We emerge to quite a major road and the hotel tells us that all the satnavs follow that route – whilst the road signs take a far better route as I will discover tomorrow.

Lake Vyrnwy

The hotel at Lake Vyrnwy has a high location overlooking the lake – which is in fact a reservoir – and faces west with the sun setting over the hills on the far side of the lake as we eat dinner. The main drawback is that it feels like a huge hike from our room to the reception and the dining room but even so I like it. It is very quiet and even though the hotel is busy the dining all seems to run smoothly.

Ffestiniog Railway 26.6.24

27 June 2024 / admin

Merddin Emrys

We retrace our steps slightly this morning into Porthmadog and one major improvement is that the Ffestiniog Railway have implemented a parking area in a near by car park which is a few minutes walk – but obviates all the previous difficulties. I am not sure how I did not know about this as I do not recall it from the last visit 10 years ago – but we were then staying close by so walked to the station.

Jackie takes our seats in the rear observation car and I walk out to the front and onto the Cob to take photographs of trains moving around the railways. I just about see the departure of a Welsh Highland service to Caenarfon. However the railway seems busy this morning and again it is very warm. it is nice to be able to traverse the line about which I read far more than I ever see.

The journey to and from Blaenau Ffestiniog behind Merddin Emrys appears pretty trouble free – uphill we are a long way back to hear how hard the locomotive is working and of course the return journey is downhill. At Blaenau the sun is beating down and shade is limited. I manage to get some photographs of the locomotive before we return.

Merddin Emrys at Blaenau Ffestiniog

On our last trip (as mentioned 10 years ago) I was struck by the wide open spaces as there had been a lot of tree clearance, Views now are much less as the trees (or new ones) have grown back and so like many other trips these days the views do not seem as good – I particularly noticed this on the Heart of Wales line recently.

Once re-united with the car it is great to have the top down and finding the new much improved road bridge at Pont Briwet which is a complete transformation. I decide to take the coast road and almost miss one turning – it looked like we were supposed to go straight on and so we pass Harlech Castle – I have never previously driven down this route.

Further down the coast we use the unimproved Penmaenpool Toll Bridge as we are heading to Aberdyfi. The satnav does not think much of the cut off as it seems to neither reduce the distance or time for the journey. Our accommodation for the night is the Dovey Arms with dinner at Seabreeze which is a few minutes walk away. Dovey Arms is a Marston house and the rooms in this case seem great value for money – with an excellent breakfast the following morning. Dinner is reasonable too.

Puffins and more 25.6.24

26 June 2024 / admin

Puffin in flight

Today we head a little way along the Menai Strait to Beaumaris where we are going to catch a boat courtesy of Seacoast Safaris for a trip up to Priestholm (Ynys Lannog/Glannog in Welsh) but which now seems to be known by just about everyone as Puffin island. The island is uninhabited by humans but the numbers of birds are enormous. Careful management has ensured that bird numbers have been steadily growing for many years. It is situated off the north east corner of Anglesey, just at the end of the Menai Straits and the journey there takes about 20 minutes with entire trip planned to take around 90 minutes.

Luckily it is extremely calm as we head along the Strait and a little further so that we can slowly circumnavigate Puffin Island. There are birds everywhere and some seals on the far side of the island although we are too late to see them basking, largely shapes moving under the surface. Although named Puffin Island and we see a few they are heavily outnumbered by all of the other species.

We have an extended session as they ensure we see everything we can so it is early afternoon and we head over the Britannia Bridge and then along the coast to Portmeirion where we are staying tonight, arriving at Castell Deudraeth in time for a late sandwich for lunch.

Portmeirion was built over a period of nearly 50 years to the design of Clough Williams-Ellis in an Italianate style. We are staying in the main hotel on one of the hottest days of the year. We wander around most of the village and I take a large number of photos. I then decide to go and walk around the wooded area to see a little more of the estate heading down to the lighthouse. It first came to my attention with “The Prisoner”.

An excellent dinner is taken later in the dining room and tomorrow we will enjoy an excellent breakfast. There are many villas around the estate which can also be rented – and certainly our night here was very nice.

Snowdon Mountain & Llanberis Lake 24.6.24

25 June 2024 / admin

Snowdon Mountain Railway

We have had three previous attempts to visit the Snowdon Mountain Railway. 10 years ago the weather forecast for the following day was poor and we then drove past Snowdon in bright sunshine with the peak clearly visible! A couple of years ago we were returning from Ireland and the booked trip was cancelled ten days earlier as the railway had been unable to complete repairs to the track and the visitor centre.

The sunshine bodes well as we drive to Llanberis first thing on a Monday morning. Even the Ringgo app works first time to pay for the parking and we join the 09:30 departure. Like too many other railways the absence of a proper timetable is an annoyance. In particular I had originally wanted to book the afternoon steam train but it was sold out when I did book – which was fine as it was easy enough to book the morning train – as only one engine was in steam and the other workings are diesel.

Which would be well and good but on arrival there is a second steam engine in steam and which took a steam service up the mountain at a time which was not advertised for booking and would have permitted a leisurely breakfast.

We are pushed to the summit by No 5 Moel Siabod, the locomotive dating back to 1896. Along the way the number of walkers seem high – but it is a bright sunny day – and at the summit itself reaching the top is not easy. It is not just the slightly uneven steps but building works continue eliminating some of the route and the numbers at the top soon fill the available space!

From the top the view is pretty good – we can see northwards but to the south of the peak there is cloud – which is impenetrable! I do not envisage another visit – but at least to see some of the scenery is good. It does mean that the route for the trains is fairly clear and so the views can also be enjoyed on the train returning to the base of the mountain.

As already mentioned a second locomotive, No 6 Padarn which is of the later 1922 batch of locomotives, is also in service today. This is the only one of the later batch of steam locomotives now remaining in service with the other two requiring replacement boilers and therefore now laid aside.

These days, unlike a previous visit many years ago, you now simply walk across the road to the Llanberis Lake Railway which extended here some years. It is quite a contrast – the line must be nearly flat as it progresses along the side of the Lake and passenger numbers are nothing like the Mountain Railway.

Llanberis Lake Railway

It runs down the back of the Welsh Slate Museum where it used to terminate in what is now the car parking area and then runs along the lake – the far end is not at a station, just a run round loop before returning to the picnic area – where it did not stop on the outward journey. The only extension since the previous visit is at the start as previously we had to go in via the Slate Museum (I think) rather than it being a stand alone attraction.

We now meander over to Anglesey where our progress is delayed by major work being undertaken on the Thomas Telford designed Menai Suspension Bridge – all of the suspension is being checked for the first time in many years – Michael Portillo mentioned it when he visited earlier in the year.

Once back at Chateau Rhianfa I seek assistance for the car. It takes a couple of hours before they reach us as their base is so far away. A faulty ABS sensor is likely and all should be well until we are home and it can be replaced.

Bodnant Gardens 23.6.24

24 June 2024 / admin

Bodnant Garden

Our journey is now into North Wales where we plan to spend the rest of the week. We soon gain motorways to leave Manchester behind and then the A55 along the North Wales coast. Much of the rest of the holiday is rail related but today we are visiting Bodnant Gardens which are a part of the National Trust therefore assisting to defray the membership cost previously mentioned.

2024 marks 150 years since Henry Davis Pochin purchased the Bodnant Estate. His wealth came from a process to use china clay to improve the quality of paper, owning South Wales coal pits plus Cornish clay pits which (much later) were acquired by English China Clays. Bodnant Gardens was effectively his retirement project and it subsequently passed to his daughter and her husband who were responsible for funding the travels of plant collectors bringing foreign plants, particularly rhododendrons and magnolias to the estate.

One of the first part of the gardens created was the Laburnum walk , which was part of Pochin garden, where we pause briefly before continuing around the gardens. It is of course a little late for most of the rhododendrons this year – but they were obviously magnificent. The roses are however blooming madly and there is a long walk through the wooded area which given the temperature is welcome.

We stay at the higher levels – it is possible to descend to river level for a better view of the waterfall – but all the paths are marked steeply graded and so we avoid those routes.

When we park I am quite a way up the hill in what appears to be “overflow” parking. When I return it is notable that cars have needed to park much further into the overflow area – so I would on that basis judge it to be a busy day at the Gardens but it never felt crowded or difficult to wander around.

Our destination is Chateau Rhianfa which is on Anglesey as it convenient for the next couple of days. Our bedroom has a view out over the Menai Strait which is the channel between Anglesey and the rest of Wales.

To reach Anglesey we pass over the Menai Bridge. The Menai Suspension Bridge is currently undergoing significant inspection works to ensure that all of the suspension cables and their securings remain safe – after all the bridge, designed by Thomas Telford, opened in 1826. It is Grade 1 listed and carries the local traffic as the main road now runs over the adjacent Britannia Bridge which was designed solely as a rail bridge by George Stephenson and re-engineered following a major fire in 1970 to the current double deck structure.