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Spanish Paradors 12.9.25

13 September 2025 / admin

Lugo Roman Wall 12.9.25

We are now moving on after three nights in Vilalba and we are now heading east having largely been heading west until now. Our first stop today is the town of Lugo which is the only town to retain a complete encircling Roman wall. So once we are there we head to an easy to access section with ramps as one or two of our number are not as agile as once was the case.

Lugo Wall 12.9.25

The town is quite attractive and our meander back is enhanced by a visit to an excavation of Roman remains under the town centre.

Lugo Excavations 12.9.25

On our outward journey the route was along the coast with the Picos Mountains on our left hand side. Today, making use of the excellent roads, we actually head up and up and up and over the mountains seeing an entirely different countryside. Very green because of the rain but also very thinly populated as tehre are simply few people living in this area.

Once we drop down onto a plateau this is mainly grain and sunflower growing, no doubt getting good rainfall but again not that heavily inhabited about the towns we pass. Much of our route is tracked by the local rail network, however I cannot recall seeing many services so they cannot be particularly frequent.

Leon Cathedral 12.9.25

Our second stop is Leon and one of our party has checked the local Dotto service and we almost run down the hill to ensure we catch the last trip around the town before the long lunch time break – by the end of which our coach will be on its way. So we have a gentle trip around the town.

Parador de Leon 12.9.25

We did pass the above Parador which looks spectacular and I hope the inside lives up to the external promise – in itself it might be tempting to plot a return!

We then mosey back up the main drag and find a a quiet looking restaurant in a side street. We do not venture inside until we have eaten and find that it is actually quite busy. Nothing special – but a reasonable meal.

The rest of the day rather reminds me of why I am never overly keen on coach holidays as it is a long schlep to the final parador – Parador de Santo Domingo de la Calzada. I cannot blame the coach driver – he was driving along at all times at a decent speed – but there are some distances to cover on this trip.

Dinner this evening is a little awkward. The staff here are again overloaded or ill prepared. There are two dining rooms and it is not obvious that they are being treated equally as finding anyone in ours seems rare. One of our travellers is treated in what seems to be a rude manner and another demands that an apology should be offered – but I am not sure it crosses the language barrier but it leaves a sour taste. The underlying problem is that the paradors have clearly cut staff to the minimum and they are over worked.

Spanish Paradors 11.9.25

12 September 2025 / admin

We take one look out of the window this morning and we confirm that not going to La Coruna is absolutely brilliant idea – the rain is pouring and the forecasts do not indicate any let up all day.

Breakfast here is not as great as it was at the first Parador; the best solution is ordering an omelette. So they may operate to the same decor but the standards for breakfast do vary (both are four star).

We have visited La Coruna previously on a cruise we took in around 2012/3 on one of the Cunard Queens so we feel we would see no more today and get very wet.

At lunchtime we take a stroll down the hill as I had spotted another restaurant and we book a table this evening for six of the group as we want to ensure we do not have difficulties finding somewhere to eat.

The rest of the day is spent reading, catching up on various magazines.

In the evening we have a good evening at the restaurant and wine bar – Jackie goes for a very expensive bottle of wine but it is very good. Just nice to have a chat with different people and whilst the food is not outstanding I suspect it is better than the hotel.

Spanish Paradors 10.9.25

11 September 2025 / admin

Santiago de Compostela 10.9.25

We technically reach the end of the Camino Way today – we are not walking it and I believe these days it is not compulsory to walk the entire distance at one go.

The city centre is largely far free and so we are dropped a walk away from there. All well and good but one of our number slightly overdoes it and the return journey is a little more fraught.

We arrive in time to join the daily service which marks the end of the journey and the place is packed. Most of our fellow travellers do not stay but we wish to see the experience – a full Catholic Mass plus the swinging of an immense incense burner. It probably looks more dangerous than it actually is and getting photos proves none too easy.

Santiago Cathedral 10.9.25

The incense burner can just be seen in the photograph.

Knowing that this evening we will be eating in a small establishment close to the Parador we visit the Parador just off the square and enjoy a light lunch coming across a somewhat Spanish phenomenon. At an adjacent table an individual takes a seat and orders. He proceeds to read the newspaper whilst having a radio on the table turned up enough to be annoying. The experience repeats later in the week with a sole diner so assume it is socially acceptable – something which in the UK would bring all sorts of frowns and complaints.

In the evening we walk around the back of the Parador and visit a small bar which we just about fill. We are served the local tapas, all very simple and local home cooked food and a different way to spend the evening and very cheap to assist the holiday budget stay in balance.

We largely avoided the rain today but we note that tomorrow is intended to be very wet. We decide that we will stay in the hotel and have a rest day.

Spanish Paradors 9.9.25

10 September 2025 / admin

Oviedo Cathedral 9.9.25

Having had two nights in Limpias this morning we also take our cases with us as we head down and out as we are moving along the northern coast. Excellent roads would make local driving very simple.

Our initial destination is the town of Oviedo and the guide had been talking expansively about it being the capital of the local cider industry. As a Spanish town it has a large church and a square.

La Regenta 9.9.25

The statue of La Regenta is a pictorial recognition of the heroine of a book which has become recognised belatedly as a classic of Spanish literature who lived and wrote in Oviedo and the books are set in the city.

After visiting these we walk to the market and I acquire a new belt as my existing ones have all given up the unenviable task of restraining my gut from wandering around.

Cheeses Oviedo 9.9.25

In the market there was cheese for sale. Regrettably the UK government currently prevents import of European cheese because there was a small foot and mouth outbreak in the Spring – soon brought under control – the continuance of the ban is unfathomable.

We then wander back and, based on the recommendation, decide that the place to get some lunch is the Calle Gascona – with about 15 bars serving food and cider. We cannot recommend it. I think we try four different establishments. We struggle to attract interest from the staff, to find anything in English as a menu (and at this point do not get me started on Google translate which appears to struggle with the menus here). When we do get seated relatively comfortable and with a menu of which we can make sense we probably both make poor choices. I went for the dish described in terms of being as “grandmother used to make” (paraphrasing) and I had forgotten just how poor the area once was and consequently the nature of the available foods.

Other people may have different experiences but interestingly one commentator suffered equally badly in this street and then ate elsewhere and did remarkably well. If only he had been before us and not after!!

After lunch we went onto Gijon a pleasant coastal town. The coach rolled to a stop outside an unexpected and unplanned treasure – a railway museum which has a neat collection of trains – standard gauge, narrow gauge and industrial on display and kept me happily occupied for quite some time.

Rail Museum Gijon 9.9.25

I could add numerous photos and direct you elsewhere for an in depth review. This is a former mine locomotive built I believe by Dufel. However there is a lot in a small space and in an adjacent yard much more waiting restoration.

We did find time to visit the beach before moving on to Parador de Vilalba where we have three nights. Walking into the room was a touch of deja vu as it is fitted out almost identically to the previous Parador – which was a slight surprise but once over the shock at least we can soon find everything!

Spanish Paradors 8.9.25

9 September 2025 / admin

Santander Cathedral 8.9.25

Regrettably, although we fly in and out of Bilbao, we do not actually visit the city. Today is an out and back trip to Santander and later Santillana del Mer.

Santander first and it is a large port on the Atlantic coast or perhaps more accurately on the southern side of the Bay of Biscay and as such it is in direct line of weather coming from the west. Today that reflects the grey and damp days which come with such a location, the Bay being infamous for the adverse weather conditions.

Our initial stop is at a lighthouse, Cabo Mayor, which provides views over the sea and also towards Santander and the Bay of Santander.

Santander Cathderal decoration 8.9.25

The coach then returns us to the waterfront in Santander and we are also to walk through a park and the town centre eventually reaching the magnificent cathedral.

1941 fire Santander 8.9.25

In February 1941 a fire started in Cadiz Street adjacent to the Docks and a strong south wind fanned the fire and it swept through much of city reaching to the Cathedral. Reconstruction of the destroyed area (around 14 hectares) took 25 years. More recently it has been commemorated with a statue. Only one life was lost in the fire.

Santillana del Mer 8.9.25

Driving inland we come to Santillana del Mer which lays claim to being one of the prettiest villages in Spain. On a damp turning very wet grey day I remain unconvinced by that claim, although it is certainly attractive and pictures are taken as we wander around.

Cider is important in this part of Spain we are advised and find our way to a place which is delivering said drink and food which are welcome.

Local Beer 8.9.25

We return to the parador where the heavily worked bar staff manage to serve us all – but it can take some time. I indulge in the local beer as I cannot drink cider. As we are a little way out of the village we choose to eat in the parador restaurant and we enjoy a pretty good meal – but again the limited staff numbers mean that there are delays – which do not bother us too much but certainly lead to some discontent. Nothing to do with our tour but the management are simply trying to do too much with too few people.

Spanish Paradors 7.9.25

8 September 2025 / admin

Castro Urdiales church 7.9.25

Our outward journey commenced yesterday in reality as we decided (in the light of an incredibly early flight) to dine at Sorrel in Dorking and then stay in a hotel adjacent to the airport overnight. We still manage to reach check in very early. Once again Vueling want the passenger to label their own bags – a practice I hate as if it goes wrong who is responsible.

Go wrong it does. I am summoned at the gate to the desk and asked to confirm that the bag is Jackie’s as they cannot scan the barcode. Why is it all so difficult plus hours of waiting around doing nothing useful.

It is a relatively short flight down to Bilbao and we are on time throughout. It does not take long to emerge with cases (it has arrived despite the unreadable bar code). We appear to lose one traveller but depart – the tour guide will be with us later as there is a later flight coming in from Manchester.

Castro Urdiales 7.9.25

With such an early flight we know the rooms will not be ready and so the tour operator has arranged for our coach to take us to Castro Urdiales. We are dropped and wander down to the sea front. It is a smart town and there are a large number of cafés along the front – but given the time it is too early for lunch. Eating times in Spain always provide a slight problem which our body clocks find more difficult than the one hour time difference. Lunch type food tends not to be available before about 13:30 and in the evenings dinner before 20:00 is just not possible and usually later.

I walk up the hill to get a closer look at the church and castle, plus some photos from a different angle.

Apparently Castro Urdiales is a favoured destination generated by the power of AI – at least according to the BBC.

We return to the coach and are taken to the Parador de Limpias which has a modern block for the rooms attached to the older building. However the rooms are comfortable and better sized than in Iceland! We have a group meeting before dinner which tells us a little about the week ahead. The slight surprise is that the tour will be unguided in the individual towns and cities – which is a contrast to most of the tours we book.

Worcester 23.8.25

24 August 2025 / admin

Teapots Royal Worcester 23.8.25

The main part of today was the trip by train from Staines-upon-Thames to Worcester being hauled by a steam locomotive which I will address on the railways blog but felt that some notes around Worcester itself were appropriate here.

I had visited Worcester earlier in the year on a drizzly grey day in January and did not feel attracted – it felt dismal and lacking. Today in the sunshine was very different and I apologise for my earlier dismay. Our tour terminated at Shrub Hill and we had a pleasant walk, largely along the canal (there is an extension to this along the river) to the Royal Worcestershire works. Now no longer in production the site was producing fine bone china from 1751 until trading ceased in 2009 although production had moved elsewhere earlier than this.

Lea Perrins Royal Worcester 23.8.25

On the site now is a museum showing the history of production and examples of the ranges produced in the 150 years of trading which included this reminder of another local product – Worcestershire sauce!

Worcester Cathedral 23.8.25

A short walk from the former factory is the Cathedral which earlier in the year I had thought grey and dull from the exterior. Internally it is far more impressive and holds the tomb of King John.

King John tomb 23.8.25

King John died at Newark Castle, probably of dysentery in 1216. His will decreed that he be buried at Worcester where he spent Christmases as he felt he had a close connection with priory and the associated saints.

We then wander around the corner to Greyfriars a National Trust property – but to see this a tour needs to be booked and given the uncertainties over our arrangements I had not done this. Across the way we have a cup of coffee and watch the world pass by before returning to the station for the trip home.

Homeward Bound 1.8.25

2 August 2025 / admin

MS Jane Austen 1.8.25

The end of the holiday and time for the next journey so we step away from the MS Jane Austen. Jackie is travelling with others on the normal return journey – a coach and Eurostar then Thameslink and GWR in a straight reverse of the outward journey.

I have my own trip programmed – taking an Interrail excursion at 71 (although technically it is not Interrail as I shall be staying in France). That story continues over on the Railways blog as (of course) I am not travelling with my wife.

Coach home 1.8.25

So I wave her coach farewell before heading off. I suspect Jackie is convinced that I cannot possibly manage three nights travelling on my own without getting lost or into trouble – but at least I have my passport.

This has been a good holiday. A mixture of relaxation and visiting new places. Two locations struck off the long list of places to visit – Monet’s Garden and Versailles plus a chance to see Rouen and Honfleur. Well worthwhile.

Versailles 31.7.25

1 August 2025 / admin

Versailles Statues 31.7.25

When we booked this trip we knew we would have a free day in Paris so by looking at the berthing location it was clear that it was a walk across the road onto the Metro which had a fast direct service to Versailles – it seemed an obvious way of using the day.

About three weeks before departure (so almost four weeks ago) I decided to check the detail using the ratp journey planner. After some “fun” I find out a few things. First up track works disrupting services are NOT loaded into the ratp journey planner until three weeks prior to operation even when they are known about and planned months in advance. Reading the website showed that the relevant line was disrupted in July and August – but the journey planner was showing normal journeys because it was more than 3 weeks before the journey date. Hence if you have issued a press release saying the line is disrupted then you must be able to update the journey planner, indeed why would anyone not do so? Unless you are from Paris obviously. It turns out that the relevant line is completely closed for today, not a single service will run. So working out where we are and the nearest metro station turns the journey into an initial walk, three trains and then something like 20 minutes’ walk at Versailles as we no longer arrive at the nearest station. This does not sound like fun and my plans are over-ruled – we shall go by taxi!

For the Palace we had made an 11:30 booking and, unlike the Pena Palace, Versailles clear the 11am queue and then immediately start letting the 11:30 booking line in with only a short delay – so although the very hot weather has returned we do not spend too long standing in the sun which is welcome.

Royal Chapel Versailles 31.7.25

My Canon appears to have gone on the blink this morning and so all shots were taken with my phone. These days can you tell the difference? A lot of my photos appear to be of the ceilings – simply because of the crowds – which have always been true of the palace I suppose.

Given the heat and the walking when we find we have not booked access to the gardens I am not that bothered – they are obviously extensive but the grounds close to the palace are closed and being reworked and those further afield look like being a long walk – so on the whole being prevented from going further is a good thing.

Hall of Mirrors Versailles 31.7.25

Versailles is impressive – but the crowds are difficult – there are several guided tours ahead of us and it is impossible to take in more than an impression of the grandeur which exists. The Hall of Mirrors remains the standout of course but I wonder how much is lost in the crush. We get a reasonable lunch and then head back out towards where I had spotted taxis earlier and indeed there is a taxi rank very close which is at variance with the guidance found online so we are soon taken back to the boat to enable packing before our final dinner.

Monet’s House and Garden Giverny 30.7.25

31 July 2025 / admin

Giverny Bridge 30.7.25

This morning we are moored in Vernon and looking at weather reports online for Vernon implied it was far nicer than it actually looked outside using window. After some research it is established that there is another Vernon in Canada and somehow that comes up on a search and not Vernon France. Here, regrettably, it is actually raining intermittently. So the waterproofs were worth bringing and are put on.

The mooring is on the north bank of the Seine whilst our destination is on the south bank and so there is a twenty minute coach ride to reach Monet’s House and Garden in Giverney where our group is second only to Nicko Cruise in obtaining entrance. Both groups are allowed entry well before the advertised opening time.

Water Garden 30.7.25

We go first to the Water Garden which is accessed by a walkway under the main road but it is initially surprisingly quiet. The numbers visiting are large but not impossible at this stage but it gets steadily busier. However I think getting any photographs (other than close ups) without people is impossible. The water gardens are stunning – although it is the wrong time of year for water lilies to be in bloom it is still a lovely setting.

Monet Garden 30.7.25

Passing back under the road we then visit the main garden which is colourful before joining the queue for the house. They are limiting entrance to the house and the queue does slowly grow behind us – we are waiting about 15 minutes which is adequate – by the time we come out I suspect that the queue length has nearly doubled.

Monet House 30.7.25

We head out and obtain a cup of coffee and an indoor seat just before the rain starts pouring down very heavily which continues for some time following which we move to the meeting point.

Then we return to Jane Austen and continue smoothly along the Seine towards Paris, once again we have the pleasure of watching the countryside pass by, catch up some reading and can remember that holidays are also for resting as well as seeing new things.