Category: Italy (Page 1 of 2)

Alberobello

21 April 2024 / admin

Trulli houses in Alberobello

Friday 19.4.24

Our trip today is by coach and it transpires that Alberobello is the town we could see from Locotorondo with the vast number of Trulli houses on the other side of the valley and our journey is therefore similar to last Sunday.

Today the weather has really turned and whilst we do not have the strong winds experienced earlier in the week the heavens have opened and it is rain through the most of the day. We have waterproof coats – but it is depressing if nothing else as we head towards the town.

Alberobello is a World Heritage Site and that has been taken seriously by the town who provide for coach parking quite a long way out of the town. It is particularly annoying that we pass a completely empty car park where the coaches could be turned about 50% of the way into the town,

Trulli houses in Alberobello

Once we reach the town centre we decide that to proceed further is not going to show us much more and I had spotted that by heading up the hill to a large group of houses we can walk through them and take photos and then return down the hill towards the coach dropping off point.

We pass one of the houses which is open for inspection – but there is already a significant crowd and we have no wish to get any wetter than we are already so we pass it by.

Trulli, Alberobello

Allegedly the reason for the construction (which appears to be limited to a relatively small area) is that removal of a single keystone collapses the roof, so in the event of a tax inspection the removal of the stone would collapse the roof and it was no longer a habitable dwelling so not taxable.

At the far end of the coach station we eventually find a coffee / wine bar which is open and partake of some coffee and once we have consumed that we move onto a glass of wine each – well it fills the morning up. It seems that many of the other travellers also visited similar establishments in the town centre – simply to stay out of the rain.

The return trip gets us back to the hotel in time for lunch.

This completes our sight seeing on this holiday and we have a relatively free afternoon and morning of the Saturday before our return to the UK. There was one outstanding moment on the Saturday. Jackie had reached the coach and was checking the bags to ensure they had been collected from outside our room and were loaded onto the coach. Of all the travellers and all the bags ours were not visible. Eventually the luggage men returned to our room, bags found and brought to the coach – probably the only time this week we have had a late departure and it was our fault. Well not ours – but very annoying. You would not believe how much counting and checking of bags was happening!

Matera

19 April 2024 / admin

Matera

Thursday 18.4.24

The trip here is solely by coach and we arrive at the top of the newer town. To me the route to Matera is interesting – there is an almost parallel narrow gauge railway (950 mm) – which tends to weave a little more around the countryside- and I watch it closely but do not see any passing trains, although as the service is about hourly I may have just been a little unlucky.

Palazzo del Sedile

On the higher level our attention is directed to the Palazzo del Sedile where the construction is not entirely straight but I cannot now recall the story behind the slightly wonky appearance

The newer town is along the top of the hillside but the older parts of the town are at lower levels with the dwellings carved out into the side of the hill. We have been warned in advance that once we leave the higher level we slowly descend using many steps and steep slopes to the lower levels so Jackie decides to remain at the higher level once we reach Piazza Duomo. Correctly as from that point it is all steps and slopes as we descend.

Matera was used at the start of the last Bond film – “No Time to Die” which brought to an end the Daniel Craig series of Bond films and potentially ended the entire series – we shall see. It is an amazing site and the views across the town are stunning.

Matera is believed to be the second longest continuously-inhabited settlement in history – the first is recorded as Petra where we shall visit later in the year. The Sassi houses were at one time regarded as very poor accommodation and much political and social pressure was applied during the Fifties with the area was regarded as a “National Shame“. Much money being devoted to convincing residents to relocate. By 1993 it was redesignated as a World Heritage Site and a few residents had never left.

Matera

The hillside across the river which we see as we commence the descent has some of the much earlier cave dwellings and that area was used in a couple of films – Monty Python’s “Life of Brian” and the Mel Gibson film “Passion of the Christ” – if I remember the briefing correctly. With added wooden crosses!

Having walked through the newer town we reach Piazza Duomo as already mentioned. From here Jackie returned through the town to a point where it is planned the main group will emerge from the lower town. I have subsequently attempted – by using online maps – to identify our route through the lower town but the guide led and we followed and whilst I am happy with the start point at the back of the Piazza the route was complex.

Inside a Sassi house

Much lower down we have a long wait to enter one of the preserved Sassi houses where we can see how it was organised by the residents with the family and animals all in the small space. Dome shaped inside and probably more space than it seems as the entire party manages to fit into the main room.

Model animals in Sassi house

Once out I turn up the hill although others go a little further. Once I reach the top – even if not quite where planned I find Jackie outside a bar with a glass of wine- she has been sending messages but I am not sure there was much signal in the houses below.

We wander back through the main part of town and had a bite to eat before returning to the coach. Regrettable I did not manage to see a train on return journey either – simply timing I suppose.

Bari

18 April 2024 / admin

Palazzo Mincuzzi

Wednesday 17.4.23

Our excursion today works much the same as Monday – a swift coach ride – this time to our nearest station and then by train back towards Bari. Again we run roughly parallel with the coast heading in a north easterly direction this time – so the other way to the previous rail trip.

For those reading closely you may have noticed that there is no mention of Tuesday. That is the official free day on this trip and we repaired to the poolside post breakfast, until the weather started to break and there was indeed a bit of wind as well as no sunshine. We decide not to go out so spent most of the day in our room catching up on some reading.

The road to the old town of Bari from the station is the main shopping street and is bedecked by brand names. Along here is the magnificent Palazzo Mincuzzi which houses Benetton. It is a stylish traditional palazzo which stands out from the other architecture surrounding it.

Bari

We slowly wander around the old town with our guide. We wander along one side street where most of the residents appear to be making pasta in the shape of an ear – Orecchiette – which is peculiar to the local area – with colourful awnings and washing hung from the railings above.

Bari Cathedral

A little later we reach Bari Cathedral, again there is a vast decorated ceiling and wall paintings and also designs incorporated in the floor.

We are equipped with headsets but there is little to distinguish Bari from the towns we visited earlier in the week. It has for a long time been a major port and trading point dating back a very long time being under Greek influence, Roman, later Normandy and then Naples.

We had previously decided that we would eat out today rather than taking the packed lunch option and there were numerous restaurants around the end of the walk in the Piazza del Ferrarese – we inspect a couple and make a choice but it cannot be recommended. Whilst not overly busy when we arrived it felt as if the staff were newish, the season had perhaps only just commenced and the lack of experience was palpable – a bad choice this time around. It happens.

Lecce

16 April 2024 / admin

ETR 104 126

Monday 15.4.24

Our first formally guided tour is Lecce. Our coach takes us to Monopoli which is one station beyond Polignano a Mare, although quite why I am not sure as I think all trains stop at both. However we are soon on a train heading generally south east to the end of the line at Lecce. Unlike yesterday the town is on the flat and is therefore an easy walking tour. The station is a little way outside the old town which we enter and visit the outside of the Cathedral and central Plaza which is surrounded by government and other related buildings to the church.

Lecce Cathedral

Local stone has been used in the construction and is easy to carve and work. It is then hardened when exposed to milk – so that when the lactose soaks into the stone it gives a protective layer as explained here. It then becomes extremely resistant – so ensuring survival over a long period. Another feature of the town is that there are shops selling papier maché figures – along with invitations to test the samples from bakeries along the main street.

In the seventeenth century the city became very rich following the Battle of Lepanto which defeated the Ottoman empire and the area was no longer subject to raids and incursions so could develop as a key trading location and this era was when much of the area was rebuilt.

Chiesa di Sant’Irene

Chiesa di Sant’Irena allows us to rest for a few minutes out of the sunshine – which has continued from yesterday. Saint Irena was the original patron saint of the town but later displaced by Sant’Oronzo. The interior is lavishly decorated and so some photographs.

The Piazza Sant’Oronzo is the main public square and is over seen by a new statue of the Saint installed in the last year or so as a replacement for the older statue which was considered no longer safe following removal for restoration. There has been some controversy as the new statue is not considered to be such a good representation of the first Bishop of Lecce (who can say?).

At the side of the Piazza are the excavated remains of part of the Roman amphitheatre which was uncovered around 100 years ago when there building work for a major bank. The amphitheatre could hold about 25000 – so apparently quite large – possibly because it been a trading centre for a long time prior to the Romans.

We have brought a packed lunch from the hotel today – so bread and ham and cheese – but then we are in Italy. it is again very warm and we sit in the park managing to find some shade before wandering back to the Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The recommended gelateri has no chairs so we sit outside another one and order a pistachio ice cream and unknown coffee. I am not sure I have ever previously come across such an adulterated coffee – I thought the Italians venerated good coffee. Never mind it is at least wet!

The return rail journey allows the usual opportunity for a snooze – well we saw the scenery on the outward journey.

Puglia Days 1/2

15 April 2024 / admin

Mother Church of San Giorgio Martire

Saturday / Sunday 13/14.4.24

This trip is badged “Rail Discoveries” which is a junior brand to “Great Rail” with whom we have travelled a number of times. Much of the paperwork issued says Great Rail and our guide works for both. The major difference is that RD tends to have larger groups – we are 37 and should have been 39 but illness struck preventing one couple travelling.

The flight is British Airways and it is sad to reflect that this former national symbol of an airline is now such a poor reflection of the nation and competence. They seem unable to manage a full trolley service and there is little available for diabetics – plus the staff just do not appear to want to care for passengers. Downgrade your staff and service and yet the prices continue.

Our destination by plane is Bari and once there we gather until the party has assembled and we have a waiting coach to take us to a hotel a couple of miles outside Polignano a Mare at the Pietrablu Resort. Apparently the resort only re-opened a couple of days ago and at the moment we make up the majority of guests, although more arrive as the week progresses. The rooms are spacious – we have a bedroom and another room, plus two bathrooms.

Locortondo

Come Sunday morning we are soon on the road with two small hill towns being our destinations today. First Locorotondo where we have a little walk into the town centre and we take a slightly devious route around this somewhat charming town with some marvellous views over the valley towards another town – Alberobello – with huge numbers of Trulli houses which we shall visit later in the week. There are one or two quirky aspects of Locorotondo – so a few photos to show window displays and a bicycle!

Locortondo

In the valley between the two towns is a railway which runs between Bari and Taranto and I see a train pass by whilst looking at the view.

The second town visited is the slightly smaller Martina Franca which is slightly south of Locorotondo. We walk into the town square and it is pleasant enough – but very warm today, probably warmer than we were expecting.

So it is time to contemplate a sit down and a cup of coffee and perhaps an ice cream. Italians as ever seem to dislike us more than the French. We wanted a cup of coffee and did not want to walk all the way back out of the town but all of the places in the square that had chairs available out of a very hot sun did not want to serve just a coffee. We do eventually find a place but choosing a coffee proves difficult.

We return to the hotel for a surprisingly excellent lunch – surprising in that it is a full meal and not just some light pickings or similar – one lunch later in the week has a full roast beef.

We decide not to join the trip to the local town of Pogliano a Mere – there will be opportunities later in the week but given that there is currently sunshine and a pool (which inevitably is cold) lying in the sun seems far more welcome than more walking. Well until such time as the hotel team note that it is too quiet and that some amplified music would improve matters! Never mind I am sure it is more appropriate later in the season!

Sardinia 18.10.23

19 October 2023 / admin

Swing unit for Golfo Aranci at Olbia

Wednesday 18.10.23

Our journey today is going to be lengthy. In rail terms we are going to go to the north of the island – first on the long journey to Olbia and then on the remaining line to Golfo Aranci on the coast.

Leaving Cagliari the train is well laden for the first half of the journey and the existence of this part of the railway system is very definitely needed unlike the thinner loadings on some of our earlier trips. Our route threads through the island touching the west coast at Oristano before turning east and then north east.

The train then revisits some locations through which we have previously passed – Macomer first. At Macomer the narrow gauge lines from Bosa Nova and to Nuoro meet and terminate in a separate station across the way where we were a week or so ago. Then further north at Ozieri-Chilivani we repass the destination of our ill-fated excursion from Sassari – this time in the same station as that was also a standard gauge train.

The first part of the journey is across the fairly flat plains of southern Sardinia which were no doubt inundated in the tsunami mentioned previously and then after Macomer the unit starts having to apply real power to climb the hills and the speed drops at times. We move into the more elevated areas in the centre of the island, again with some wonderful views, before we drop down again to sea level at the end of the journey.

Olbia is a terminus and the train goes no further. After checking our next train is waiting at another platform and we actually walk across the tracks – just like all the other travellers. The services are much less heavily used and we have a nice run through the countryside to the final destination.

Isola di Figarolo

At Golfo Aranci there is a coach ready and waiting and after a brief photo stop of Isola di Figarolo we are whisked to the airport – and in plenty of time as the check in desks are not yet checking in!

However they do, we eventually board and fly home.

Sardinia 17.10.23

18 October 2023 / admin

Dotto train Cagliari

Tuesday 17.10.23

On the original schedule for this holiday we were due to fly home today. However the relevant flight has been changed (on Tuesdays) to depart much earlier in the day so it would be a very difficult flight to catch. We therefore opted to have an additional night in Cagliari which in retrospect was not the best possible solution as tomorrow turns into a very long day.

We should have requested the original train service to the north today and then a hotel stay somewhere appropriate and that would have split the travelling in two making it easier.

However with this free day we walk down to the station to catch the Dotto train I spotted earlier and use this to take us up to the castello area and then to descend back to the starting point so that Jackie has an opportunity to see some of the sights which she did not see as she did not take part in the guided tour. This one is more colourful than some of the others as can be seen above.

Once she is back at the hotel I decide to go in search of the trams which we saw briefly at San Gottardo when we arrived from the north and the online information implies that they currently run to Republicca which looks like it is walkable and hopefully not too uneven. I head in the right direction noting that it is largely downhill – which is fine now but may not be later on! There is a large construction project in progress to extend the metro system from that current terminus into the town centre adjacent to the main station – it has been ongoing some years and there have been various delays, not least covid and financial aspects.

Cagliari metro line

I reach my destination and there are lots of people around – and even some tracks around the back but no obvious station entrance and some very rusty looking rails. I later discover that the metro is not running here and instead there is a replacement bus service – which I do not fancy – it is very hot again today and I walk back by a marginally different route to the hotel. I am sure the exercise did me good!

Dinner in the marina area again – at what I later find is one of the longer standing restaurants. Initially not particularly welcomed as we are the first and obviously very early diners but as the staff turn up and they get going it is far more friendly.

Sardinia 16.10.23

17 October 2023 / admin

Cagliari Station locomotive

Monday 16.10.23

We head down the hill and along to the main station where we are going to travel on a couple of lines which head westward out of Cagliari. When I say “we” today I am referring to the tour group party as Jackie has decided on a rest day in the hotel.

At Cagliari station there is a steam locomotive 744003 – class 744. Class construction took place in 1927 and part of the class was assigned to Sardinia when the line they were working on the mainland in Italy was electrified. They were mixed traffic locos used until withdrawal in the 1970’s. There is one other similar loco in a museum in Pistoia on the mainland. It seems unlikely that either will return to steam.

As we leave the station there is evidence along the lineside that electrification is coming – although it looks like it will be some time yet. The train is well used and particularly at the airport station there are decent numbers waiting to go into the town centre on the other platform. The line to the northern part of the island is just beyond Deciomomannu station whilst our line branches off to the left and heads westwards.

There is another junction station at Villamassargia-Domusnovas where the line effectively splits into two. Nothing much happens here for most of each hour, but then when the hourly service arrives from Cagliari, two other trains arrive from each terminus – one at Carbonia-Serbariu and the other at Iglesias – which is where we are heading. The hourly service we are using goes to Iglesias, and the train which has arrived from there is going to Cagliari. The third train will return to Carbonia-Serbariu. An hour later the train from Cagliari will go onwards to Carbonia-Serbariu but again there will be a connection to and from Iglesias using the unit on which we are travelling.

Iglesias

Iglesias is a pretty town and I undertake a wander around as they have decorated one of the thoroughfares with umbrellas and there is a small square. I find a small side street for lunch – and it is lunchtime as the entire town, apart from the restaurants, seems to have closed up!

Some of us then take the opportunity of using the interconnection mentioned earlier and visit Carbonia-Serbariu but we merely reach the terminus and then take the return working – which goes through to Cagliari. I can see evidence of mine wheels in the distance as we enter and leave the station and I believe they mark a coal mine museum indicating the economic history of Carbonia – although there may be a clue in the name!

Sardinia 15.10.23

16 October 2023 / admin

Our Green Train at Laconi

Sunday 15.10.23

Today is a little odd as we use the coach for a return to Mandas where yesterday we caught a service train south. Today we head in the opposite direction using one of the Green Train services to see more of the scenic beauty in the centre of the island.

An early arrival enables another quick visit to the same convenient coffee shop as used yesterday. On this journey it is noticeable that just about all of the coach journey travelling times are significantly over-estimated.

Transport today is also a throwback as we have a diesel loco and coaches. We are heading north from Mandas to Laconi. The line originally ran through some very rural areas ending in Sorgono; I have found a review of a trip reaching there in 2012 but there is no indication that any services now cover the line north of Laconi on a regular basis.

Part of the journey is alongside a reservoir and we see some very attractive scenery passing by as the line inevitably twists and turns along the hillsides to find their way between the sparse settlements.

Chiesa San Sebastiano at Isili

Other participants are not just taking the train trip but are going on a further excursion but our tour operator only booked the train – this may vary on future such tours. Looking at the Green Train excursions being outlined for 2024 it seems that they do not normally just offer the train – but it forms part of a larger offering on most of the services.

We return to Cagliari by coach – it is a lot faster by road than it was by rail! Once back in the capital we have a cultural excursion to the archaeological site at Nora which was originally a local settlement and then a Phoenician settlement. Later still Punic and eventually Roman which of course sits on the top of the others. Given its location at the southern end of Sardinia it became a major trading place as it was easily reached from all directions across the Mediterranean.

Roman Mosaics at Nora

As with many Roman sites there mosaics so implying it was a major site in the first century and predates Cagliari by a long time. We can see that it was highly compact settlement and yet there is a small amphitheatre and other communal facilities, so the population must have been in need of such resources. However much of the adjacent land is still used by the army and has yet to be excavated so may extend over a much greater area as well as there being a further extension which has now fallen below sea level as this end of the island is sinking into the sea.

We return to Cagliari for dinner.

Sardinia 14.10.23

15 October 2023 / admin

ARST Railcar @ Mandas

Saturday 14.10.23

Having used the golf buggy to reach the coach at the top of the hill we depart and head initially south and then turn inland through some more wild and rugged countryside winding around and over some magnificent hills on our way to Mandas – which is where the junction of the line to Arbatax branches off from the line which runs south to Cagliari and also runs northwards.

South of Mandas towards Cagliari there is a pretty regular service run by ARST usually using the same units we have already enjoyed on the west of the island and one or two services (I think for school traffic mainly) that run to a couple of stations north of Mandas on weekdays only. We arrive in plenty of time and so go in search of a coffee at a nearby establishment which is also popular with the locals and is soon found by many of our fellow travellers.

There are still one or two services provided by older railcars (one was seen earlier in the holiday on the line from Sorso to Sassari) and today one has been found for our journey to Cagliari. So no air conditioning today! It is pictured above!

Metro at San Gottardo

Our journey terminates at San Gottardo in the north east area of Cagliari. The line continues onwards as part of the metro system but our coach is here to convey us to our hotel in the town centre. The trams use the same gauge and indeed run a little way further out of Cagliari on the line we have used on our inward journey. The depot is here at San Gottardo.

Our hotel is based in the City Centre near to the main run of restaurants and not far from what is known as the Marina area although there is now a main road between the area and the waterfront.

Elephant Gate Cagliari

Our coach takes us first to the far side of the city and we have views both out to sea and then back across the city to the Castello area. Having had a distant view the coach then returns to the city to drop us very close to the top of the city which is the Castello district. This was originally the location of a Pisan castle and it represented a change as the main city had previously been elsewhere.

The Aragonese eventually defeated the Pisans and took control of Sardinia. We walk slowly down the hill from the Castle area past the Royal Palace and the Cathedral – there is a service in progress so we cannot take a look. We wind back and forth – others seem to know where we are, I will admit to being confused. We pass through the Elephant Gate and we eventually emerge adjacent to the Bastion de St Remy having walked all the way down the hill and avoided the large number of steps. I noted a number of restaurants on the way but it is clear that they are uphill! From here it is a further short walk down more of the hill to the hotel.

The adjacent Marina district is just behind the main street of Cagliari and it contains numerous restaurants so we wander down there for our dinner.