Category: Italy (Page 1 of 3)

Verona and onto Innsbruck 28 December 2024

29 December 2024 / admin

Juliet Balcony Verona 28.12.24

With our luggage on its way to Austria we still have another trip in Italy. Our coach takes us to Verona and again the weather is bright and certainly not cold. The coach takes about an hour before we have a few minutes going round in a circle to find the local guide. The coach then perambulates around the outer part of the town showing us the walls before dropping us alongside the river Adige which we cross into the town centre.

The centre of Verona is small and has a some attractive architecture with a main market square which is very busy and an adjacent square in the centre of which is a statue of Dante. The entire town appears quite attractive to wander around. It seems pretty busy today.

The main purpose for us to visit Verona (and likewise for many large numbers) is the balcony attributed to Juliet. Of course the reality is vastly different with the balcony itself only dating back to the early 20th Century. Shakespeare’s story appears to derive from a poem published in 1562 written by Arthur Brooke which was using stories from Italian writers who used the enmity between the Cappelletti and Montecchi families. The house dates back to the 13th century and has been long known as Juliet’s house. However there is no truth in the stories – or is there?

From Verona we catch a train which will ascend over the Brenner pass and take us to Innsbruck. One day (and I am not sure it will be in my lifetime) there will be a huge tunnel under the Alps which will take the trains but until then our ascent is not particularly rapid as it is steep and although electrified the other services dictate the pace. Similar restrictions apply to the descent. Given the time of year the latter part of the journey is in the dark but even we can tell that there has been a significant snow fall in the recent past and the hills at least will be white when we can see them on the morrow.

Our new hotel is situated in the centre of Innsbruck adjacent to the market and the river. Hotel reception is however not briefed. The receptionist asks us to hand over our passports – fair enough – and then asks us to select our dinner – and yet we did that some time ago and it has been sent through already. Then she sends us away from the desk and refuses to hand over the room keys – which is mismanagement of the highest order – they have our names on the passports and should exchange one for the other. Eventually sense is seen and we ascend to our room where our cases have safely arrived but the room itself is regrettably less impressive – no view and one of those rooms where I sit still whilst Jackie unpacks and vice versa. The quality of dinner is an improvement despite the need to make choices and so we are on the swings and roundabouts again.

The brochure description of the day:

Leaving Lake Garda behind, we take the coach to Verona, where we enjoy a guided tour of a city filled with Roman ruins, medieval buildings, Italian culture and romance, and famous as the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet.

In a UNESCO World Heritage-listed city centre, we visit Juliet’s iconic balcony and the Roman arena, an open-air venue still used for performances today, where some free time could lend itself to indulging in lunch in one of the many restaurants around Piazza Brà.

In mid-afternoon, we board the train for a direct journey to Innsbruck in Austria. This spectacular route through the Alps reveals some magical wintry scenes as we leave Italy by the Brenner Pass.

Located in the Inn Valley, beneath the unique backdrop of the Alps, Innsbruck is known for its Imperial buildings and quaint Old Town, which reflects the city’s historic and cultural past through its wonderful Renaissance, Baroque and traditional Tyrolean architecture. At this time of year though, it’s a winter wonderland of snow-frosted mountains, cosy cafés and sugar-dusted trees.

Our hotel in central Innsbruck looks out to the majestic snow-capped peaks of the Austrian Alps. We will be staying at The Hotel Innsbruck, situated in the heart of the Old Town, within walking distance of many of the sights and attractions of Innsbruck.

Venice 27 December 2024

28 December 2024 / admin

Leaning Tower Venice 27.12.24

This morning we are off to Venice by train from Pesicheria del Garda to Venice. The train is a little late although the reasons are announced we are not too bothered. In Venice from the station we have a motor boat ride around to St Mark’s Square – repeating our visit from about 30 years ago. As it is a motor boat it is not permitted down the Grand Canal so we wander around another route. This morning we have a guided tour which walks us around some of the back canals which we did not visit last time and gives us an opportunity to see a little more of the city and be told of some of the history.

Our guide explains how the water system used to work with the squares having drains for rain water which then filter through the sand underneath to gather at the bottom of wells in each small square with each of the squares having one or two wells. In the base stone of each well there is a small dip to act as a drinking bowl for domestic animals which can be easily refilled from the well. This system is no longer used with all housing now connected to a mains system but this provided local water for many centuries.

We are taken through the former Greek area and visit the Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci which is a Greek Orthodox church. In view of its history which has an ornate interior, although photographs are not permitted within. Externally there is a leaning tower – providing you are looking from the right direction.

Gondolier 27.12.24

Our guide also explains that the famous gondolas are not symmetrical. The owner stands on one side of the boat and consequently were it to be the same on both sides they would not easily be able to proceed in a straight line. So the gondola is designed to counter the weight of the owner and is therefore shaped to offset his weight. The guide implies that the gondoliers therefore have to maintain their weight quite tightly until the gondola is replaced although I suspect that there is a tolerance of 10% or so. And the work keeps them fit I suppose.

We eventually return to St Mark’s Square where the tour ends. I had noted that down one of the streets there was a confluence of small restaurants and as before we only need something light – however the one we choose turned out not to be a good choice and lunch is disappointing. On our previous visit to Venice we did go to Harry’s bar and even that was disappointing – so our views of Venice have not really changed. Or we are just poor at choosing restaurants! We decamp to take a coffee along the main front and to watch people pass by before gathering to take a boat back to the rail station and return to Bardolino. Time to pack as tomorrow we move on.

There seems to be a real mix of operators into Venice with Italo seeming to have quite a few trains around – the local Open Access operator. It strikes me that perhaps the route simply cannot cope with the additional trains so everything runs late. I just do not understand why people should be allowed to make money using state assets – if the state owns something it should be entitled to all the commercial returns which are generated.

The official description for the day:

This morning is yet another highlight of our festive holiday. After breakfast we take a train to the magical floating city of Venice.

On arrival we enjoy a private boat transfer that takes us straight to the heart of Venice, St Mark’s Square, for a guided walking tour of Venice’s sumptuous attractions, including the Doge’s Palace, the Bridge of Sighs, and the Rialto Bridge.

With some free time after our tour, we could take a traditional gondola ride through the winding network of canals or catch a water taxi to the island of Murano, famed for its age-old glass-blowing techniques.

However, we may choose to simply walk beside the enchanting waterways, over tiny arched bridges and past Venetian palaces, soaking up the unique atmosphere of this timeless city.

We could also warm up in a cosy café overlooking St Mark’s Square, or along one of the streets which radiate out from here, with a cup of delicious cioccolata calda.

Franciacorta Winery 26 December 2024

27 December 2024 / admin

Al Rocol Winery 26.12.24

You may be asking what happened to day 4? It was Christmas Day and despite the bright weather outside we both decided to retire to our room for the day to catch up on some reading and resting as we have had some busy days so far.

I take a walk along the lake frontage this morning to the next door village of Cisano and observe some bird life on the lake, plus a church and the views across the lake. Our hotel is just in Bardolino but the Cisano village centre is actually closer as it is a few minutes walk whilst Bardolino is probably five minutes or so in the coach, let alone walking!

A little later our coach arrives for a trip of about an hour back westwards to the area of Franciacorta. Whilst this was always a vine growing area in about 1957 an entrepreneur investigated the classico method (Methode Champenoise) for producing a sparkling white wine following that classical method very closely – including the same grape varieties and subsequently pursuing formal DOGC approval which was achieved in 1996. With such accreditation there was rapid growth as more and more vineyards joined the arrangement and it now underpins much of the region’s activities.

At the Al Rocol vineyard the secondary fermentation in the bottle is still undertaken by turning the bottles in the racks manually to allow the sediment to gather in the neck of the bottle – I think it was implied that some places now have machines for this turning activity. Even more impressive sounding (although not seen) are the machines used at the end of the fermentation process. The bottles are inverted, the content of the neck is frozen and is then rapidly expelled by the gases in the wine. The bottles then have a small amount of wine added and the bottles are resealed for sale – that must move very quickly to prevent losses of the precious liquid contained therein. It is amazing how technology makes progress.

The vineyard also produces a range of other wines. The prime product, the sparkling Franciacorta is very clean and the one we tasted does not have the “biscuity” flavour which I often associate with champagne – I quite like it. The other wines are also good. This individual winery no longer ships to the UK (although they will ship to the USA) as a side effect of our leaving the EU they are not prepared for paper mountain needed. One of our party resides in Sweden and is able to place a significant order.

It is a family run business and we gather that “Mother” is in the kitchen preparing the excellent snacks which accompany our wine tasting whilst most of the full time employees are family members, with other staff being part time. This provision of decent snacks also brings to me the winery on the slopes of Mount Etna which provided a decent repast whilst wine tasting.

Unlike most vineyard visits we do not get to see the vines themselves, but at this time of year they would look pretty dead. We understand that there are about three large producers of Franciacorta wines and then a very large number of small producers all of a similar size to this one and all working to the same DOCG standards to ensure a consistent output between the wineries.

In mid-afternoon we return to Bardolino – again a quieter day – there is more free time on this tour than on others.

Adding the brochure description of the day:

Following a relaxed breakfast, we enjoy an excursion by coach to the Franciacorta wine region.

Here, we stop at a local winery for a tour that teaches us all about the production process followed by an expert-led tasting of the vineyard’s different vintages accompanied by local specialities.

Franciacorta is a small wine-producing area in Lombardy, northern Italy. It is famous for its high-quality sparkling wines, which are made very much in the image of Champagne. The Franciacorta wine region is located in the Brescia province, in the hills immediately south-east of the foot of Lake Iseo.

On the return to our hotel, tea and coffee and a selection of small pastries and cakes awaits, before we enjoy a gala dinner in the evening.

Sirmione 24 December 2024

26 December 2024 / admin

Lake Garda 24.12.24

The good news is that after the slightly dull weather so far the sun is shining this morning and the sky is blue. Additionally it is not cold so no woolly needed – and no special socks which can wait until later in the trip.

Our tour now moves to a slower pace as the initial outward journey has been completed. The small coach returns to take us to our destination today which is the other side of the lake – Sirmione. On arrival we have an additional boat trip around the town – it is disconnected from the remaining land by the former castle defences which we navigate at the end of the journey – our captain implies that the clearances are limited on either side – but experience is in his favour and we slide through without touching anything at all.

Our trip around the headland enables the captain to tell us a little of this history of the town and the somewhat astronomical prices for the residences as they are now. Maria Callas was a long term resident occupying a villa with some superb views over the lake. We are also shown bubbles rising from lake bed. We are told this is the source of prosecco – sadly not true – but in fact the supply of hot thermal waters which is one of the main draws for the tourists.

Once back on dry land we wander into town and make use of the shops for some supplies. Sirmione is a pretty little town. The Romans under Catullus had a construction at the northern end of the island/promontory whilst the more modern castle is at the other end of the island with a tiny land bridge. Sirmione is apparently Italy’s fourth largest tourist destination and I think I am pleased that we have come here at a time when it is much quieter than normal – it is pleasantly busy but not crowded.

Castle Sirmione 24.12.24

When we set out on the boat tour there was no wind as we had been warned that it might not happen. Whilst we were walking around the town centre we were not troubled by the wind but wanting some other photos I ventured to the eastern side of the island adjacent to the castle walls to find that there is now a cold wind whipping along that side – but from which we are completely protected by a small ridge in the town itself. We go into an attractive pottery shop but we are worried about transport home so do not indulge in any purchases – the cases will get thrown about.

Retracing our steps we sit down in a small café and enjoy some sunshine on our backs plus a pizza and salad – welcome sustenance but if anything it is nice to see a bright and sunny sky after the months of grey clouds at home.

After lunch we rejoin the coach for the return trip – I know we take a slightly different route than the one on which we came and it is noticeable that there an awful lot of vineyards on both sides of the road. Not surprisingly I soon doze off – some light exercise, food, warm sun and coach travel – all the ingredients for a quick snooze so it feels we are soon back at the hotel. The rest of the afternoon is free time, so a welcome rest and some reading.

Continuing with the Great Rail brochure description:

On Christmas Eve morning we travel to the enchanting lakeside town of Sirmione where there’s free time to look around.

Located at the southern end of Lake Garda, where the lakefront is almost sea-like, this medieval town is a pleasure to discover, bursting with history and charm. The town is entered via a drawbridge, over a water-filled moat, which surrounds the imposing Rocca Scaligera, a beautifully preserved 13th-century castle.

We may like to visit the castle for a view from its ramparts, or take a stroll through the lovely old quarter – where we could enjoy a coffee, a glass of wine and a light lunch at one of the characterful cafés or trattorias.

Alternatively, we may like to visit the Grotte di Catullo, the remains of one of the largest Roman villas in Italy.

We return to our hotel in Bardolino in the afternoon, where there is time to relax and maybe enjoy the superb facilities, before we celebrate Christmas Eve with a gala dinner at our hotel in the evening.

Turin to Lake Garda 23 December 2024

24 December 2024 / admin

Turin Xmas Calendar

Following breakfast, which included an unexpected assignment with a kettle to obtain a cup of tea, I take the metro to Porto Nuovo (which is the main station) and then walk to the main squares. Some attractive architecture along the way and an Advent calendar alongside the Cathedral.

The expectation of the squares being dressed for Christmas proved unfounded – I assume that they all finished at the weekend but at least this gave an opportunity to see and appreciate those buildings which were not clad in scaffolding of which there also seemed to be a lot in evidence. Turin has a famous shroud which is now believed to a creation of the Middle Ages and it is only on display from time to time so do not try and find it.

Turin decorated car

And amazingly some Italians decorate their cars as well.

The metro is €2 for a single journey with a flat fare and a ticket is needed to enter the station but on exit you simply approach the barrier gates and they open. There is only the one metro line but not enough time to travel to the extremities this morning. The line opened in 2006 and is a 750v dc third rail operation but photos prove impossible.

The group leave the hotel by coach for the trip to Porto Nuovo for the train to Milan and some of us are desperate to pick up food before the train’s departure. This becomes slightly farcical as we are travelling on a group ticket so we need to be checked through the barrier line together, we do manage it but then struggle to get all the bags stored out of the way of the eventual trolley with an unexpected snack, including wine, as we are travelling first class. So double rations!

We traverse the Northern Italian plains running at just under 300 km/h (around 186mph) when they can be bothered to display information between numerous adverts as we head to Milan. We reach a junction, possibly early, and are there so long that eventually there is an announcement explaining that we are awaiting a proceed signal. I believe that most of our journey was on the new 125km of line which opened back in 2009 some 7 years after construction commenced, amazingly speedy compared with HS2 on which I doubt I shall ever travel. I think the junction was where we returned to the historic network. Just think if we could build high speed rail that quickly. I wonder what their view is on bats in Italy?

Italian rail passenger management is even more stupid in Milan where we change trains. The exit from the inner concourse to the outer concourse has no ticket machines implying you can simply come and go apart from the numerous “heavies” who suddenly appear once you have exited and then refuse re-entry, which has to be via the ticket gates, which is not possible when travelling on a group ticket. Simply put gates on the exit so the ticket is scanned (making it obvious to non-ticket holders that you cannot leave the inner concourse) and sack the “heavies”.

After the excitement on the first journey we are much slower as we proceed from Milan Central to Peschiera del Garda, losing time continuously through the journey. Peschiera del Garda is situated at the southern end of Lake Garda with onward transit to our hotel in Bardolino using a small coach. There are Open Access operators on this section and I wonder if there are simply too many trains. On the small coach we pass Gardaland Park which is Italy’s premier amusement report and can be reached by a free shuttle bus service from the station. The southern end of Lake Garda is reportedly Italy’s fourth largest tourist area (after Venice, Rome and Florence).

Hotel Caesius has, on one side, views over the Lake – which are no doubt very attractive but on our side we have the car park which is somewhat less prepossessing! Never mind perhaps we will strike lucky in Innsbruck. (Perhaps we need a new surname so we get our room allocated first). We are here for five nights and need to preselect our meal choices for main course for dinner each night. I accept it is to control waste but this feels disappointing compared with our experience in Puglia earlier this year where there was an extensive buffet choice on a Rail Discoveries trip.

At least as we are here for a few days we can unpack 50% of our clothes and the room is a decent size and we can relax easily. Effectively two days of travelling can be tiring.

Once again I append the Great Rail brochure description:

After breakfast at our hotel, there’s a full morning and time over lunch to explore handsome Turin at leisure. This dignified city is an important centre of business, finance and technology, and is also a showcase of Baroque, Renaissance and modern architecture.

Fringed by the Italian Alps, the city’s wide boulevards and grand public squares are lined with enticing cafés and bars. Just a short walk from our hotel is a stylish pedestrianised shopping district.

In the mid-afternoon we continue our journey by rail into northern Italy, passing through Milan on our way south to Peschiera del Garda then by coach to the lakeside town of Bardolino, on beautiful Lake Garda, where we check into our 4-Star lakefront hotel for five nights. We are welcomed with a glass of prosecco before sitting down to a three-course dinner. 

Whilst in Bardolino, we stay in the gorgeous 4-Star Hotel Caesius Spa Resort.

Offering comfortable and bright rooms, 2 restaurants, 2 bars, a wine cellar, and a spa, this is truly a wonderful place to relax after a day of festivities.

This evening we enjoy a three-course dinner at the hotel.

London to Turin 22 December 2024

23 December 2024 / admin

Inevitably a long day but very little walking. After a 5:30 alarm call we descend to the hotel receptionist who kindly makes us a cup of coffee each before letting us out onto the St Pancras concourse where we join our fellow travellers before a quick shopping diversion to obtain some lunch.

The usual demonstration of how not to manage passengers is demonstrated by Eurostar at St Pancras, queuing for check in which could be open but is not; sending luggage, coats, belts through a scanning machine and humans too – yet this does not protect anyone as it is just a train and travellers going through similar tunnels in Japan or Europe are not subject to such scans. Borders do not require such scans – airports do to protect planes possibly – but not a train. Then keep everyone penned up with the train sat in the platform with both imminent departures then using the same platform access rather than spreading the load between platforms – simply wrong headed. This is so far from train travel as to be completely wrong. Once we depart Eurostar then serve the worst excuse for breakfast offered by anyone – Eurostar seem to think that 1/10th of a baguette is a generous breakfast portion. This is really parsimonious – is it any wonder that they have not eliminated flight travel by simply providing a proper rail service?

For reported security reasons we halt at Calais Frethun and lose even more minutes before arriving in Paris about 20 minutes late. The coach connection to Gare de Lyon appears to encounter just about every red light possible during the trip across Paris but the coach driver gets very close to the entrance and the onward TGV is berthed at the nearest platform to where we leave the coach. Once all heads are counted we are able to board, all making it to our seats with a few minutes to spare.

As we head further south the skies become greyer and eventually it starts to rain. Our train pauses once at a station – Macon – and then operationally before taking the single track section which comprises the last section of the route into Chambery, where our train terminates as the onward route suffered a rock fall over a year ago and the remedial work has not yet been completed so we will not go through the rail tunnel at Frejus. It has since re-opened.

Once we have transferred to a coach it gets steadily darker but we are obviously climbing up in the mountains and I wake from a snooze to see snow on the ground and more falling. Unlike rail our driver needs a 30 minute break once we are back in Italy which slows our onward progress to Turin. It is shame that the break was not scheduled during the inevitable wait over in Chambery.

We have managed to pass through France without eating a French meal having consumed nothing of substance for breakfast and an M&S chicken salad for lunch! By the time we reach Turin I am actually feeling hungry. Dinner takes some time to get organised so it is 9pm local time before we eat, which feels late. We are staying in the Hotel Lingotto which is located within the former Fiat factory with the test track on the roof, however we will be unable to visit it tomorrow as it is closed due to lack of staff.

Time for bed.

On this holiday we are travelling once again with Great Rail Journeys – therefore I feel that it is entirely reasonable to quote their description of this day from the brochure listing:

Today we set off on our magical festive holiday which combines two of Europe’s most delightful destinations – Lake Garda where we stay over Christmas, and the charming city of Innsbruck, a seasonal favourite.

Meeting at the London St Pancras, we travel on the Eurostar to Paris in Standard Premier Class. In Paris we change for the First Class service direct to Turin, on a scenic journey which passes the Alps, as we travel in comfort to the handsome Italian city of Turin. Here we spend the night in our hotel, the NH Lingotto Congress, has a surprising history which reflects the city’s heritage. Housed in the old Fiat Factory the hotel still has the Fiat test track on its roof.

The city has a dignified ambience and an artistic, cultural and epicurean heritage. We enjoy our first dinner together at our hotel restaurant this evening.

Alberobello

21 April 2024 / admin

Trulli houses in Alberobello

Friday 19.4.24

Our trip today is by coach and it transpires that Alberobello is the town we could see from Locotorondo with the vast number of Trulli houses on the other side of the valley and our journey is therefore similar to last Sunday.

Today the weather has really turned and whilst we do not have the strong winds experienced earlier in the week the heavens have opened and it is rain through the most of the day. We have waterproof coats – but it is depressing if nothing else as we head towards the town.

Alberobello is a World Heritage Site and that has been taken seriously by the town who provide for coach parking quite a long way out of the town. It is particularly annoying that we pass a completely empty car park where the coaches could be turned about 50% of the way into the town,

Trulli houses in Alberobello

Once we reach the town centre we decide that to proceed further is not going to show us much more and I had spotted that by heading up the hill to a large group of houses we can walk through them and take photos and then return down the hill towards the coach dropping off point.

We pass one of the houses which is open for inspection – but there is already a significant crowd and we have no wish to get any wetter than we are already so we pass it by.

Trulli, Alberobello

Allegedly the reason for the construction (which appears to be limited to a relatively small area) is that removal of a single keystone collapses the roof, so in the event of a tax inspection the removal of the stone would collapse the roof and it was no longer a habitable dwelling so not taxable.

At the far end of the coach station we eventually find a coffee / wine bar which is open and partake of some coffee and once we have consumed that we move onto a glass of wine each – well it fills the morning up. It seems that many of the other travellers also visited similar establishments in the town centre – simply to stay out of the rain.

The return trip gets us back to the hotel in time for lunch.

This completes our sight seeing on this holiday and we have a relatively free afternoon and morning of the Saturday before our return to the UK. There was one outstanding moment on the Saturday. Jackie had reached the coach and was checking the bags to ensure they had been collected from outside our room and were loaded onto the coach. Of all the travellers and all the bags ours were not visible. Eventually the luggage men returned to our room, bags found and brought to the coach – probably the only time this week we have had a late departure and it was our fault. Well not ours – but very annoying. You would not believe how much counting and checking of bags was happening!

Matera

19 April 2024 / admin

Matera

Thursday 18.4.24

The trip here is solely by coach and we arrive at the top of the newer town. To me the route to Matera is interesting – there is an almost parallel narrow gauge railway (950 mm) – which tends to weave a little more around the countryside- and I watch it closely but do not see any passing trains, although as the service is about hourly I may have just been a little unlucky.

Palazzo del Sedile

On the higher level our attention is directed to the Palazzo del Sedile where the construction is not entirely straight but I cannot now recall the story behind the slightly wonky appearance

The newer town is along the top of the hillside but the older parts of the town are at lower levels with the dwellings carved out into the side of the hill. We have been warned in advance that once we leave the higher level we slowly descend using many steps and steep slopes to the lower levels so Jackie decides to remain at the higher level once we reach Piazza Duomo. Correctly as from that point it is all steps and slopes as we descend.

Matera was used at the start of the last Bond film – “No Time to Die” which brought to an end the Daniel Craig series of Bond films and potentially ended the entire series – we shall see. It is an amazing site and the views across the town are stunning.

Matera is believed to be the second longest continuously-inhabited settlement in history – the first is recorded as Petra where we shall visit later in the year. The Sassi houses were at one time regarded as very poor accommodation and much political and social pressure was applied during the Fifties with the area was regarded as a “National Shame“. Much money being devoted to convincing residents to relocate. By 1993 it was redesignated as a World Heritage Site and a few residents had never left.

Matera

The hillside across the river which we see as we commence the descent has some of the much earlier cave dwellings and that area was used in a couple of films – Monty Python’s “Life of Brian” and the Mel Gibson film “Passion of the Christ” – if I remember the briefing correctly. With added wooden crosses!

Having walked through the newer town we reach Piazza Duomo as already mentioned. From here Jackie returned through the town to a point where it is planned the main group will emerge from the lower town. I have subsequently attempted – by using online maps – to identify our route through the lower town but the guide led and we followed and whilst I am happy with the start point at the back of the Piazza the route was complex.

Inside a Sassi house

Much lower down we have a long wait to enter one of the preserved Sassi houses where we can see how it was organised by the residents with the family and animals all in the small space. Dome shaped inside and probably more space than it seems as the entire party manages to fit into the main room.

Model animals in Sassi house

Once out I turn up the hill although others go a little further. Once I reach the top – even if not quite where planned I find Jackie outside a bar with a glass of wine- she has been sending messages but I am not sure there was much signal in the houses below.

We wander back through the main part of town and had a bite to eat before returning to the coach. Regrettable I did not manage to see a train on return journey either – simply timing I suppose.

Bari

18 April 2024 / admin

Palazzo Mincuzzi

Wednesday 17.4.23

Our excursion today works much the same as Monday – a swift coach ride – this time to our nearest station and then by train back towards Bari. Again we run roughly parallel with the coast heading in a north easterly direction this time – so the other way to the previous rail trip.

For those reading closely you may have noticed that there is no mention of Tuesday. That is the official free day on this trip and we repaired to the poolside post breakfast, until the weather started to break and there was indeed a bit of wind as well as no sunshine. We decide not to go out so spent most of the day in our room catching up on some reading.

The road to the old town of Bari from the station is the main shopping street and is bedecked by brand names. Along here is the magnificent Palazzo Mincuzzi which houses Benetton. It is a stylish traditional palazzo which stands out from the other architecture surrounding it.

Bari

We slowly wander around the old town with our guide. We wander along one side street where most of the residents appear to be making pasta in the shape of an ear – Orecchiette – which is peculiar to the local area – with colourful awnings and washing hung from the railings above.

Bari Cathedral

A little later we reach Bari Cathedral, again there is a vast decorated ceiling and wall paintings and also designs incorporated in the floor.

We are equipped with headsets but there is little to distinguish Bari from the towns we visited earlier in the week. It has for a long time been a major port and trading point dating back a very long time being under Greek influence, Roman, later Normandy and then Naples.

We had previously decided that we would eat out today rather than taking the packed lunch option and there were numerous restaurants around the end of the walk in the Piazza del Ferrarese – we inspect a couple and make a choice but it cannot be recommended. Whilst not overly busy when we arrived it felt as if the staff were newish, the season had perhaps only just commenced and the lack of experience was palpable – a bad choice this time around. It happens.

Lecce

16 April 2024 / admin

ETR 104 126

Monday 15.4.24

Our first formally guided tour is Lecce. Our coach takes us to Monopoli which is one station beyond Polignano a Mare, although quite why I am not sure as I think all trains stop at both. However we are soon on a train heading generally south east to the end of the line at Lecce. Unlike yesterday the town is on the flat and is therefore an easy walking tour. The station is a little way outside the old town which we enter and visit the outside of the Cathedral and central Plaza which is surrounded by government and other related buildings to the church.

Lecce Cathedral

Local stone has been used in the construction and is easy to carve and work. It is then hardened when exposed to milk – so that when the lactose soaks into the stone it gives a protective layer as explained here. It then becomes extremely resistant – so ensuring survival over a long period. Another feature of the town is that there are shops selling papier maché figures – along with invitations to test the samples from bakeries along the main street.

In the seventeenth century the city became very rich following the Battle of Lepanto which defeated the Ottoman empire and the area was no longer subject to raids and incursions so could develop as a key trading location and this era was when much of the area was rebuilt.

Chiesa di Sant’Irene

Chiesa di Sant’Irena allows us to rest for a few minutes out of the sunshine – which has continued from yesterday. Saint Irena was the original patron saint of the town but later displaced by Sant’Oronzo. The interior is lavishly decorated and so some photographs.

The Piazza Sant’Oronzo is the main public square and is over seen by a new statue of the Saint installed in the last year or so as a replacement for the older statue which was considered no longer safe following removal for restoration. There has been some controversy as the new statue is not considered to be such a good representation of the first Bishop of Lecce (who can say?).

At the side of the Piazza are the excavated remains of part of the Roman amphitheatre which was uncovered around 100 years ago when there building work for a major bank. The amphitheatre could hold about 25000 – so apparently quite large – possibly because it been a trading centre for a long time prior to the Romans.

We have brought a packed lunch from the hotel today – so bread and ham and cheese – but then we are in Italy. it is again very warm and we sit in the park managing to find some shade before wandering back to the Piazza Sant’Oronzo. The recommended gelateri has no chairs so we sit outside another one and order a pistachio ice cream and unknown coffee. I am not sure I have ever previously come across such an adulterated coffee – I thought the Italians venerated good coffee. Never mind it is at least wet!

The return rail journey allows the usual opportunity for a snooze – well we saw the scenery on the outward journey.