Matera
Thursday 18.4.24
The trip here is solely by coach and we arrive at the top of the newer town. To me the route to Matera is interesting – there is an almost parallel narrow gauge railway (950 mm) – which tends to weave a little more around the countryside- and I watch it closely but do not see any passing trains, although as the service is about hourly I may have just been a little unlucky.
Palazzo del Sedile
On the higher level our attention is directed to the Palazzo del Sedile where the construction is not entirely straight but I cannot now recall the story behind the slightly wonky appearance
The newer town is along the top of the hillside but the older parts of the town are at lower levels with the dwellings carved out into the side of the hill. We have been warned in advance that once we leave the higher level we slowly descend using many steps and steep slopes to the lower levels so Jackie decides to remain at the higher level once we reach Piazza Duomo. Correctly as from that point it is all steps and slopes as we descend.
Matera was used at the start of the last Bond film – “No Time to Die” which brought to an end the Daniel Craig series of Bond films and potentially ended the entire series – we shall see. It is an amazing site and the views across the town are stunning.
Matera is believed to be the second longest continuously-inhabited settlement in history – the first is recorded as Petra where we shall visit later in the year. The Sassi houses were at one time regarded as very poor accommodation and much political and social pressure was applied during the Fifties with the area was regarded as a “National Shame“. Much money being devoted to convincing residents to relocate. By 1993 it was redesignated as a World Heritage Site and a few residents had never left.
Matera
The hillside across the river which we see as we commence the descent has some of the much earlier cave dwellings and that area was used in a couple of films – Monty Python’s “Life of Brian” and the Mel Gibson film “Passion of the Christ” – if I remember the briefing correctly. With added wooden crosses!
Having walked through the newer town we reach Piazza Duomo as already mentioned. From here Jackie returned through the town to a point where it is planned the main group will emerge from the lower town. I have subsequently attempted – by using online maps – to identify our route through the lower town but the guide led and we followed and whilst I am happy with the start point at the back of the Piazza the route was complex.
Inside a Sassi house
Much lower down we have a long wait to enter one of the preserved Sassi houses where we can see how it was organised by the residents with the family and animals all in the small space. Dome shaped inside and probably more space than it seems as the entire party manages to fit into the main room.
Model animals in Sassi house
Once out I turn up the hill although others go a little further. Once I reach the top – even if not quite where planned I find Jackie outside a bar with a glass of wine- she has been sending messages but I am not sure there was much signal in the houses below.
We wander back through the main part of town and had a bite to eat before returning to the coach. Regrettable I did not manage to see a train on return journey either – simply timing I suppose.