Turin Xmas Calendar
Following breakfast, which included an unexpected assignment with a kettle to obtain a cup of tea, I take the metro to Porto Nuovo (which is the main station) and then walk to the main squares. Some attractive architecture along the way and an Advent calendar alongside the Cathedral.
The expectation of the squares being dressed for Christmas proved unfounded – I assume that they all finished at the weekend but at least this gave an opportunity to see and appreciate those buildings which were not clad in scaffolding of which there also seemed to be a lot in evidence. Turin has a famous shroud which is now believed to a creation of the Middle Ages and it is only on display from time to time so do not try and find it.
Turin decorated car
And amazingly some Italians decorate their cars as well.
The metro is €2 for a single journey with a flat fare and a ticket is needed to enter the station but on exit you simply approach the barrier gates and they open. There is only the one metro line but not enough time to travel to the extremities this morning. The line opened in 2006 and is a 750v dc third rail operation but photos prove impossible.
The group leave the hotel by coach for the trip to Porto Nuovo for the train to Milan and some of us are desperate to pick up food before the train’s departure. This becomes slightly farcical as we are travelling on a group ticket so we need to be checked through the barrier line together, we do manage it but then struggle to get all the bags stored out of the way of the eventual trolley with an unexpected snack, including wine, as we are travelling first class. So double rations!
We traverse the Northern Italian plains running at just under 300 km/h (around 186mph) when they can be bothered to display information between numerous adverts as we head to Milan. We reach a junction, possibly early, and are there so long that eventually there is an announcement explaining that we are awaiting a proceed signal. I believe that most of our journey was on the new 125km of line which opened back in 2009 some 7 years after construction commenced, amazingly speedy compared with HS2 on which I doubt I shall ever travel. I think the junction was where we returned to the historic network. Just think if we could build high speed rail that quickly. I wonder what their view is on bats in Italy?
Italian rail passenger management is even more stupid in Milan where we change trains. The exit from the inner concourse to the outer concourse has no ticket machines implying you can simply come and go apart from the numerous “heavies” who suddenly appear once you have exited and then refuse re-entry, which has to be via the ticket gates, which is not possible when travelling on a group ticket. Simply put gates on the exit so the ticket is scanned (making it obvious to non-ticket holders that you cannot leave the inner concourse) and sack the “heavies”.
After the excitement on the first journey we are much slower as we proceed from Milan Central to Peschiera del Garda, losing time continuously through the journey. Peschiera del Garda is situated at the southern end of Lake Garda with onward transit to our hotel in Bardolino using a small coach. There are Open Access operators on this section and I wonder if there are simply too many trains. On the small coach we pass Gardaland Park which is Italy’s premier amusement report and can be reached by a free shuttle bus service from the station. The southern end of Lake Garda is reportedly Italy’s fourth largest tourist area (after Venice, Rome and Florence).
Hotel Caesius has, on one side, views over the Lake – which are no doubt very attractive but on our side we have the car park which is somewhat less prepossessing! Never mind perhaps we will strike lucky in Innsbruck. (Perhaps we need a new surname so we get our room allocated first). We are here for five nights and need to preselect our meal choices for main course for dinner each night. I accept it is to control waste but this feels disappointing compared with our experience in Puglia earlier this year where there was an extensive buffet choice on a Rail Discoveries trip.
At least as we are here for a few days we can unpack 50% of our clothes and the room is a decent size and we can relax easily. Effectively two days of travelling can be tiring.
Once again I append the Great Rail brochure description:
After breakfast at our hotel, there’s a full morning and time over lunch to explore handsome Turin at leisure. This dignified city is an important centre of business, finance and technology, and is also a showcase of Baroque, Renaissance and modern architecture.
Fringed by the Italian Alps, the city’s wide boulevards and grand public squares are lined with enticing cafés and bars. Just a short walk from our hotel is a stylish pedestrianised shopping district.
In the mid-afternoon we continue our journey by rail into northern Italy, passing through Milan on our way south to Peschiera del Garda then by coach to the lakeside town of Bardolino, on beautiful Lake Garda, where we check into our 4-Star lakefront hotel for five nights. We are welcomed with a glass of prosecco before sitting down to a three-course dinner.
Whilst in Bardolino, we stay in the gorgeous 4-Star Hotel Caesius Spa Resort.
Offering comfortable and bright rooms, 2 restaurants, 2 bars, a wine cellar, and a spa, this is truly a wonderful place to relax after a day of festivities.
This evening we enjoy a three-course dinner at the hotel.