Travels with my Wife

Lake Garda 24.12.24

The good news is that after the slightly dull weather so far the sun is shining this morning and the sky is blue. Additionally it is not cold so no woolly needed – and no special socks which can wait until later in the trip.

Our tour now moves to a slower pace as the initial outward journey has been completed. The small coach returns to take us to our destination today which is the other side of the lake – Sirmione. On arrival we have an additional boat trip around the town – it is disconnected from the remaining land by the former castle defences which we navigate at the end of the journey – our captain implies that the clearances are limited on either side – but experience is in his favour and we slide through without touching anything at all.

Our trip around the headland enables the captain to tell us a little of this history of the town and the somewhat astronomical prices for the residences as they are now. Maria Callas was a long term resident occupying a villa with some superb views over the lake. We are also shown bubbles rising from lake bed. We are told this is the source of prosecco – sadly not true – but in fact the supply of hot thermal waters which is one of the main draws for the tourists.

Once back on dry land we wander into town and make use of the shops for some supplies. Sirmione is a pretty little town. The Romans under Catullus had a construction at the northern end of the island/promontory whilst the more modern castle is at the other end of the island with a tiny land bridge. Sirmione is apparently Italy’s fourth largest tourist destination and I think I am pleased that we have come here at a time when it is much quieter than normal – it is pleasantly busy but not crowded.

Castle Sirmione 24.12.24

When we set out on the boat tour there was no wind as we had been warned that it might not happen. Whilst we were walking around the town centre we were not troubled by the wind but wanting some other photos I ventured to the eastern side of the island adjacent to the castle walls to find that there is now a cold wind whipping along that side – but from which we are completely protected by a small ridge in the town itself. We go into an attractive pottery shop but we are worried about transport home so do not indulge in any purchases – the cases will get thrown about.

Retracing our steps we sit down in a small café and enjoy some sunshine on our backs plus a pizza and salad – welcome sustenance but if anything it is nice to see a bright and sunny sky after the months of grey clouds at home.

After lunch we rejoin the coach for the return trip – I know we take a slightly different route than the one on which we came and it is noticeable that there an awful lot of vineyards on both sides of the road. Not surprisingly I soon doze off – some light exercise, food, warm sun and coach travel – all the ingredients for a quick snooze so it feels we are soon back at the hotel. The rest of the afternoon is free time, so a welcome rest and some reading.

Continuing with the Great Rail brochure description:

On Christmas Eve morning we travel to the enchanting lakeside town of Sirmione where there’s free time to look around.

Located at the southern end of Lake Garda, where the lakefront is almost sea-like, this medieval town is a pleasure to discover, bursting with history and charm. The town is entered via a drawbridge, over a water-filled moat, which surrounds the imposing Rocca Scaligera, a beautifully preserved 13th-century castle.

We may like to visit the castle for a view from its ramparts, or take a stroll through the lovely old quarter – where we could enjoy a coffee, a glass of wine and a light lunch at one of the characterful cafés or trattorias.

Alternatively, we may like to visit the Grotte di Catullo, the remains of one of the largest Roman villas in Italy.

We return to our hotel in Bardolino in the afternoon, where there is time to relax and maybe enjoy the superb facilities, before we celebrate Christmas Eve with a gala dinner at our hotel in the evening.

Turin Xmas Calendar

Following breakfast, which included an unexpected assignment with a kettle to obtain a cup of tea, I take the metro to Porto Nuovo (which is the main station) and then walk to the main squares. Some attractive architecture along the way and an Advent calendar alongside the Cathedral.

The expectation of the squares being dressed for Christmas proved unfounded – I assume that they all finished at the weekend but at least this gave an opportunity to see and appreciate those buildings which were not clad in scaffolding of which there also seemed to be a lot in evidence. Turin has a famous shroud which is now believed to a creation of the Middle Ages and it is only on display from time to time so do not try and find it.

Turin decorated car

And amazingly some Italians decorate their cars as well.

The metro is €2 for a single journey with a flat fare and a ticket is needed to enter the station but on exit you simply approach the barrier gates and they open. There is only the one metro line but not enough time to travel to the extremities this morning. The line opened in 2006 and is a 750v dc third rail operation but photos prove impossible.

The group leave the hotel by coach for the trip to Porto Nuovo for the train to Milan and some of us are desperate to pick up food before the train’s departure. This becomes slightly farcical as we are travelling on a group ticket so we need to be checked through the barrier line together, we do manage it but then struggle to get all the bags stored out of the way of the eventual trolley with an unexpected snack, including wine, as we are travelling first class. So double rations!

We traverse the Northern Italian plains running at just under 300 km/h (around 186mph) when they can be bothered to display information between numerous adverts as we head to Milan. We reach a junction, possibly early, and are there so long that eventually there is an announcement explaining that we are awaiting a proceed signal. I believe that most of our journey was on the new 125km of line which opened back in 2009 some 7 years after construction commenced, amazingly speedy compared with HS2 on which I doubt I shall ever travel. I think the junction was where we returned to the historic network. Just think if we could build high speed rail that quickly. I wonder what their view is on bats in Italy?

Italian rail passenger management is even more stupid in Milan where we change trains. The exit from the inner concourse to the outer concourse has no ticket machines implying you can simply come and go apart from the numerous “heavies” who suddenly appear once you have exited and then refuse re-entry, which has to be via the ticket gates, which is not possible when travelling on a group ticket. Simply put gates on the exit so the ticket is scanned (making it obvious to non-ticket holders that you cannot leave the inner concourse) and sack the “heavies”.

After the excitement on the first journey we are much slower as we proceed from Milan Central to Peschiera del Garda, losing time continuously through the journey. Peschiera del Garda is situated at the southern end of Lake Garda with onward transit to our hotel in Bardolino using a small coach. There are Open Access operators on this section and I wonder if there are simply too many trains. On the small coach we pass Gardaland Park which is Italy’s premier amusement report and can be reached by a free shuttle bus service from the station. The southern end of Lake Garda is reportedly Italy’s fourth largest tourist area (after Venice, Rome and Florence).

Hotel Caesius has, on one side, views over the Lake – which are no doubt very attractive but on our side we have the car park which is somewhat less prepossessing! Never mind perhaps we will strike lucky in Innsbruck. (Perhaps we need a new surname so we get our room allocated first). We are here for five nights and need to preselect our meal choices for main course for dinner each night. I accept it is to control waste but this feels disappointing compared with our experience in Puglia earlier this year where there was an extensive buffet choice on a Rail Discoveries trip.

At least as we are here for a few days we can unpack 50% of our clothes and the room is a decent size and we can relax easily. Effectively two days of travelling can be tiring.

Once again I append the Great Rail brochure description:

After breakfast at our hotel, there’s a full morning and time over lunch to explore handsome Turin at leisure. This dignified city is an important centre of business, finance and technology, and is also a showcase of Baroque, Renaissance and modern architecture.

Fringed by the Italian Alps, the city’s wide boulevards and grand public squares are lined with enticing cafés and bars. Just a short walk from our hotel is a stylish pedestrianised shopping district.

In the mid-afternoon we continue our journey by rail into northern Italy, passing through Milan on our way south to Peschiera del Garda then by coach to the lakeside town of Bardolino, on beautiful Lake Garda, where we check into our 4-Star lakefront hotel for five nights. We are welcomed with a glass of prosecco before sitting down to a three-course dinner. 

Whilst in Bardolino, we stay in the gorgeous 4-Star Hotel Caesius Spa Resort.

Offering comfortable and bright rooms, 2 restaurants, 2 bars, a wine cellar, and a spa, this is truly a wonderful place to relax after a day of festivities.

This evening we enjoy a three-course dinner at the hotel.

Tag: Lake Garda

Sirmione 24 December 2024

Turin to Lake Garda 23 December 2024