Holidays and Other Excursions

Category: Holidays (Page 2 of 4)

Cornwall 1.5.25

Osip menu

Osip menu

As we are going to spend most of the time we are away on this holiday utilising a caravan we are taking the large car as we will need the space – we have undertaken similar trips in the small car before but it is easier to get shopping in the large car as well as the cases and other bags.  This is also an ever increasing holiday.  Initially only a week away was planned and then we added a stop off on the way down to break up the journey and as our final stop insists on two nights over a weekend.   It eventually became 11 days when we read about another highly rated restaurant which turns out not to be too far off the A303 (our preferred route west) so we added a further extra stop on the outward journey and that enabled an additional location to be visited without having to rush around.

Having filled up with petrol it is the M3 first and then the A303 as we head towards Wincanton where we are stopping at the Nog Inn for the night.  We arrive and spot the inn on the right but completely miss the car park on the other side of the road which the staff confirm exists when we phone them – however at the second circuit of the one way system we find it with a member of staff able to direct us and so we get parked.

The reason for staying here is to enable a visit to Osip – a restaurant now located in a former pub nr Bruton.  A taxi has been arranged to take us from the pub to the restaurant so we wait outside the pub and it is on time.  Which is just as well as the destination appears to be in the middle of nowhere – it is definitely physically not in Bruton itself – although that may be the nearest town.

We are a little concerned as the initial vibes feel similar to those engendered at Restaurant Jericho in Nottinghamshire which we experienced a few weeks ago and did not enjoy.  Tonight was a completely different ball park and was enjoyable from start to finish plus the pairing wines were excellent as well – really complementing the taste of the food – something which does not always happen with tasting wines.  (Photo of menu copyright Jackie Whitbread).

Ali the taxi cab is also able to get us back to the Nog Inn at the end of the evening safely.  We are able to navigate the cobbles and the steps back to our room, where we settle down to sleep.

Lisbon / Sintra 4.3.25

National Palace Sintra

National Palace Sintra

We have a quieter day today – a walk up the hill (if you visit Sintra hills are inevitable) – to the National Palace which is adjacent to the main square.

Wikipedia says that it is the best preserved medieval royal residence in Portugal as it has been in near continuous use from the early 15th century when the Islamic Moors ruled the region until late in the 19th century.  None of the Moorish construction survives with a part of the building being dated to the early 14th Century and much of it was erected in the early 15th century.

Externally the most striking aspect of the building are two enormous conical chimneys which extracted the fumes and smoke from the kitchens as there are two large banks of ovens and stoves for the cooks to be able to feed the royal family and the inevitable entourage.

There was further construction in the early sixteenth century as Portugal gathered wealth from the expeditions being undertaken across the world at that time.  Inevitably the earthquake of 1755 led to damage but it was restored in the same fashion.  Following the creation of the Republic in 1910 it became state owned and was the subject of significant restoration in the 1940s becoming a tourist attraction.

Magpie Room National Palace

Magpie Room National Palace

The magpie room was decorated by King John 1 (ruler from 1385 to 1433) who had apparently been caught kissing a lady in waiting by his wife Philippa of Lancaster (daughter of John of Gaunt) and sister to the later Henry IV (of England).  A woman not to be crossed I suspect.  She married as part of the famous Anglo-Portuguese Alliance which commenced in 1386 (marriage in 1387) – making Portugal the longest of our allies and the alliance remains in force to this day.

As previously mentioned we had a light lunch in Café Paris and having spent the afternoon doing some reading in the evening we go the nearby (to our B&B) Romaria de Baco which looks slightly unprepossessing from the outside but inside we are again warmly greeted and enjoy a good meal, partly enlivened by a party of three (parents and a teenager) who were clearly having a somewhat serious argument as everyone is clearly quite fired up.  Sadly with no knowledge of the language we could only guess what the upset was.

On the Wednesday (5 March 25) we have to return home.  I had originally planned to take the other rail line back into Lisbon and then changing onto the metro for the last couple of stops out to the airport.  Jackie insists that we book and take a taxi as she does not want anything to go wrong.  At one point on the motorway we are moving very slowly and I get close to saying something but the jam clears after about twenty minutes and I have managed to restrain myself.  However it would have been less stressful (probably) by rail, although I am not enthused by the metro and their lifts / escalators not being there when needed.  Then the usual hanging around the airport until we have a plane and back to Heathrow and recover the car and head home.

 

Lisbon / Sintra 3.3.25

Sintra Pena Palace 3.3.25

Sintra Pena Palace 3.3.25

Our destination today is the Pena Palace and we already know where to catch the bus – it comes down the hill and stops at a particular bus stop.  It is a circular service and just goes round and round and I have previously researched the price.  What I did not expect was that the driver does not want to sell us the basic ticket.  They have been told to sell a rover ticket at a higher price – not the simple return ticket.  We do eventually get it.  The price difference is a couple of Euros but I dislike being “ripped off” in this way.  I suspect for those doing both palaces it might make some sense – but it is a “norty” bus company.

We pass the Moorish palace first and then reach the Pena Palace.  As yesterday we are significantly early as the instructions make it clear that there is a need to be present at the time the tour is timed (every half hour).  So we are able to walk around the outside parts of the castle and then watch a couple of previous timed entries enter.  It becomes clear that if you are given an 11 am timing you can enter over the next 25 minutes.  So rather than join a queue and be in the hustle we wait for 20 minutes after our allotted time and then we enter behind the main pack and are not being hustled along by those behind us.  And potentially able to get photos without too many people in the way.  (Some months later we encounter a very similar problem at St Michael’s Mount and I suspect it has all been born out of covid and no-one has quite managed to relax since).

The Palace is externally an almost glorious clash of different styles representing the contributions from various sources over the life of the palace – the heading picture struggles to convey these variations.

Pena Palace Interior

Pena Palace Interior

It takes about 35 – 40 minutes to go around the Palace and hopefully I will have some decent photos of it.  The original monastery was destroyed in to earthquakes – the second being the one which also devastated Lisbon in 1755.  In 1838 the Ferdinand II acquired the lands and set about turning it into a suitable summer palace for the royal family.  A German architect was employed with construction being finally completed by 1854, although it was largely complete in 1847.  The Royal family had significant input into various elements of the design.  In 1889 it was bought by the State from the Royal family and after 1910 it became a museum.  At the end of the 20th Century it was restored to its original colours.

In the evening we eat at the Café Paris which is immediately opposite the National Palace which we are visiting tomorrow.  An excellent meal so we will have a light lunch here tomorrow as well.  Decent food and well looked after which is always welcome.

Lisbon / Sintra 2.3.25

CP Lisbon unit 2414

CP Lisbon unit 2414

Luckily having checked yesterday we do actually know where to go to find the train to Sintra.  No great problem buying tickets or finding the train.  The timetable implied that there is a more frequent service than is actually the case – it turns out that there are two distinct destinations in the area and one of them is not really in Sintra where we need to be.  Quite why the timetable implies they both go to Sintra I struggle to comprehend.

As with the tram yesterday the loading on the train is high – we were there early so were able to claim seats but many stand for the journey which is a slight surprise.  As ever the fares are unbelievably low – far below any UK fares for similar journeys. And of course it is electrified.

We cross paths with a pair of people who were also on our food tour a few days ago as they are also going to Sintra – but intend to fit in far more (being American) whilst we are simply making the journey today and seeing sights over the next two days.

Once we have arrived in Sintra we stay close to the station as lunch is booked in a restaurant so we want to get a coffee to bridge the gap.  We sit outside a coffee shop but they seem to have a crisis inside and initially refuse to serve us.  As we have cases we do not wish to go inside and somehow our existence appears to be completely forgotten so instead of being warmed by coffee we are actually getting colder.

The restaurant is down the hill and unlike most diners we go for the full three courses.  So we actually see people pop in, eat what is almost less than a snack and depart.  It seems very odd compared with normal UK Sunday behaviour which is to consume a full roast.  Indeed in a few cases they order one plate and share it.

Regrettably we have to go all the way back up to the station (up a hill) to find the taxi rank to take us to our next B&B which is centrally located – but there is an awkward one way system for cars to get into the main town.

In the evening we take a wander around the town and having had a lunch we feel a pizza might be a suitably light meal and there is little choice – but the place we use is difficult to recommend so disappointing.  We have a meal booked in one place for Tuesday – externally it looks less than great but we shall see it inside when we get there.

Lisbon / Sintra 1.3.25

Belem Tower

Belem Tower

We wake and find it is a much brighter morning.  The breakfast room in the hotel looks out over Restauradores and it is also interesting to watch the other residents coming and going.  A decent breakfast as well.

Having been displaced from yesterday this morning we head down to Praça do Comércio  intending to take the tram 15 to Belem.  There is a long queue and no tram 15 appears although it is supposed to be frequent.  I eventually walk to the tram stop shelter  (we are at the back of lengthy queue) and there is a notice which informs me that tram 15 is truncated at some point on the route and it seems it will not be serving this stop (as it is in Portuguese I am guessing at the content to a certain extent – but the names of the roads do not mean much to me and trying to find them on Google Maps does not help a lot either).

There is an adjacent taxi rank and so we take the obvious step.  A very helpful and chatty taxi driver is happy to get us to our planned destination and explains how to walk between the Tower, the monument and the Jerónimos Monastery for which I am grateful.

At the Tower the wait to enter looks like it is about 30 minutes long – but it is getting warmer so we decline the opportunity to stand around in the sun and decide to walk along to the monument.  We are both sure we visited this briefly on a coach trip when moored here on a cruise a few years ago but we have a little more time to take photographs today.

Jeronimos Monastery

Jeronimos Monastery

The Jerónimos Monastery Is the other side of the main road and so we make use of the passenger underpass emerging the other side.  We have a pleasant walk through some gardens and then have trouble finding the ticket booth, hidden away in a corner of the gardens behind trees.  However I can see that there is a long queue into monastery which the we overhear a discussion and it is taking a couple of hours – which is even less attractive in the sun than the wait at the Tower.

We determine we will return someday perhaps – the area is struggling to cope with the number of visitors which have appeared in the sunshine and today is not the day for us to be standing around.  Having closely watched the trams moving I work out where we need to be to catch a tram for most of the return journey which we then take back towards the town centre.

The station we need to use tomorrow is immediately behind the hotel and yet the entrance in an adjacent building lacks any branding or recognition that it is an entrance – it appears to be a Starbucks.  When we go in we see signs directing us upstairs to the trains – but externally it is bereft.  It is fair to say that we have not seen as much of Lisbon as I would have liked due to a combination of limited opening hours, non-existent trams and simply far too many people.  Frustrating to be honest.

Lisbon / Sintra 28.2.25

Prado menu

Prado menu

Originally we had planned to visit Belem today and maybe some other parts of Lisbon but the weather continues to be less than ideal and lacking waterproof clothing may be a real drawback if it continues much longer.

So we head to the terminus of the historic tram – no 28 – which covers (normally) much of Lisbon which is ideal on a damp day.  Before leaving the UK I was already aware that the tram route is not currently running the entire way to the west due to road works but instead terminates in a square on the far side of the hill to the hotel.  We do not particularly wish to cover the rest of the route (it has been through the really historic part of the town by the castle) and do not use the minibus onward but wait for our tram to shuffle off, reverse and then pick up passengers for the return trip to our starting point.

Lisbon tram

Lisbon tram

I had thought about taking the Santa Justa lift  to the higher level and visiting the former convent which contains various artworks.  However there is a lengthy queue for the lift and there is a limit to patience and ability to stand around waiting.  Watching the queue for a little while it did not seem to be moving at all – so no idea how long the wait would be.

In the evening we walk down through the main area to the Se Cathedral.  However this closes an hour earlier in winter than in summer – so has just closed as we arrive.  This is unfortunate as we now have an hour of time to waste before we can go the restaurant we have booked.  Not one of my better moments.

Restaurant Prado (due to a recommendation by Edible Reading) was the destination this evening.  It is an excellent meal.  The place is also fairly busy and this is an excellent place to eat and I have put the menu above as given the weather this was the highlight of the day!

Lisbon / Sintra 27.2.25

Hanging Hams

Hanging Hams

This morning the weather does not look bright but I get down to Rossio which is adjacent to the hotel to find that the battery in my big camera is flat.  I have time so return to the room and pick up my portable charger and start recharging it in my pocket.  By the time I return to Jackie it is starting to spit and the rain then continues the rest of the time we are out of the hotel.

Our guide – of Chilean origin and a lawyer who decided to change his life post covid and has resettled in Lisbon – gives us a little history of Portugal and Lisbon before taking us around some local outlets to show us the food.

Up first is a pork sandwich and so far the rain is not too bad.  Tasty pork – which has to be taken with the famous piri piri sauce – Jackie feels I am adding too much – but the drops are very small and only about half the recommended eight drops – so just enough for a taste rather than drowning the pork.  The pork is accompanied by some white wine – so the morning is off to a good start, well it is five o’clock somewhere after all.

We keep passing the Bastardo fish restaurant – but it is not one we visit – I have to hope it has a different meaning in Portuguese.  Our next stop is another glass of wine to accompany the cod fish balls which are cod and potato.  The rain continues to fall.

Lisbon alcohol

Lisbon alcohol

A stop for some port is only to be expected in Portugal and whilst this is before lunch it proves acceptable – although we stand outside we are just about undercover – sadly the rain keeps on raining down.

Now time for something a little more substantial as we need to soak up some of the alcohol and therefore lunch.

Around the corner it is time for Ginjinha – which is not gin but is in fact a sweet cherry liqueur from a bar with that name which is just across the way from our hotel.  A lot of people appear to stop off for a quick one on their way past.  This time we shelter in the miniscule space in front of the bar – that rain is still falling.

We have one further stop – which is some distance away and requires the use of a lift.  Without realising it the rain is worse and it is now penetrating my light jacket to the point that when I arrive at the final stop for cheese and meat boards I am completely soaked.  I remove my coat and as we are there some time I have time to dry out a little.  Until we return to the hotel and am soaked through again.  That coat has lost all water-proofing and is little use in the rain in future.

I hang up my shirt to dry out as well.

Lisbon / Sintra 26.2.25

Heathrow T5

Heathrow T5

This morning we head off to Heathrow and once again we are using the pod parking, for the first time in daylight and because it is pretty full this morning we park close to the B station.  Car parked we trundle along the podway to Terminal 5, this is just such a simple way of accessing the airport.  Bag drop is relatively quick but security less so.  Then an interminable wait until we are told we are departing from B gates, so take the underground transit out to the B gates.

A nearly full flight but we load well and are ready to back off the stand seven minutes ahead of expected departure time, not that we do although we are soon away.  A good flight down to Lisbon where we are terminated on a stand away from the main building so it is a bus into the terminal.

Bags collected we head outside to the metro terminus and descend to the departure platform of the metro which provides a good service into the City Centre.  We travel to the end of the red line at Sao Sebastien and then change to the blue line for Restauradores.  The lifts are a bit of a pain when we change (as we have cases) and it is worse at Restauradores – both the upward escalator and the lift are out of action.  Even worse there are no lifts from the underground ticket hall to street level so we have to slowly ascend the stairs.  It was obvious in Turin that at the main station (and there is a main station just around the corner which we shall use later in the week) that there were lifts from the metro to street level – their absence is surprising.

Bonjardim

Bonjardim

Our hotel is immediately adjacent to the exit rom the station which is welcome and we are soon in an excellent room in the Avenida Palace Hotel.  It is now late afternoon so some unpacking and then we have planned to go to a very local restaurant – Bonjardim – which has been serving spit roast chicken since the early fifties if I remember correctly.  Potentially the original peri peri chicken came from here and they certainly provide a peri peri sauce to add to the chicken.  We arrive and almost immediately a significant queue forms up behind us so very lucky timing.  Many of the later arrivals are accommodated indoors whereas given the warmth we are able to sit outside and enjoy the entertainment provided by a dancer who appears and does a couple of dances and then goes round making a small collection to which we add funds.

An excellent meal and an interesting discussion with the tables either side – Americans who have moved to Portugal in one case and a Canadian on his travels around Europe.

Italy / Austria Homeward

OBB 1116-267 2.1.25

OBB 1116-267 2.1.25

This actually covers three days after the action previously recorded.  The first day was entirely free in Innsbruck and we largely stayed in our room reading and resting – we had a pizza one day when we were out and about but generally had seen nothing we wanted to revisit in the cold.  However the opportunity existed.

The second day is traversing Austria and Germany.  DB Rail is at the moment reckoned to be poorly performing and we are subjected to this.  Our first train to Munich is not a problem although a little late if I recall correctly and we can watch the countryside pass by.  In Munich the train is in the platform but like some UK operators getting passengers boarded gently and steadily is not accepted and we have a last minute dash – which with heavy suitcases is not welcome.  The service onwards to Cologne is soon being undertaken in the dark (so reading and listening time) until we come to a halt.  The driver on a previous train had seen something on the track and so we halt whilst an investigation is undertaken.  Inevitably this takes quite a bit of time and as the report may have been a person the caution is understandable.  There is no opportunity to recover the time.

The final day is a service from Cologne to Brussels which also runs late – so we are a little worried over our connection time given the Eurostar approach to travellers.  No need to worry as the inward train to Brussels was also late and so we get through security and are penned up in an area without enough seats for those travelling for ages.  The train is there but we are not allowed to board it.  Then they undertake loading the priority passengers – understandable but we spend ages in a queue and it seems like they are already letting in passengers for the following service (at least so it is implied).  I regret to say that once again this is not the way that anyone should be treating international rail passengers.  These days I am not sure cattle would be allowed to travel like this.  Eurostar really need to take a step back and find a better way of ensuring that passengers are respected.

Inevitably a late departure means a late arrival and I thought that we would have a nice simple connection into the service home from Waterloo (which is only hourly because of the poor service on our local line).  I make my way to the right entrance at Kings Cross for the Underground – this means going right to the front of the old station entrance which was swept away a couple of decades ago and taking the lift down (plus a few steps).  The escalator delivers us to the right platform and it is across on the level from Victoria line to Bakerloo at Oxford Circus.  The watch is ticking.

We head up the escalators at Waterloo and although it is almost on the hour our train is on the other side of the barrier with the doors open – we dive through and onto the first coach.  The train departs about three late.  The guard comes through and I thank him and explain that we are lucky to catch it.  He had to deal with a late arriving disabled passenger further forward and so was loading a wheelchair when he should have been signalling departure.  Our driver however is up to the challenge and observing limits is able to recover the time dropped at Waterloo by the time we roll into Woking.  Once we are at Guildford It is then a normal wander across to another platform for the meander home.  Another holiday completed.

Brochure descriptions:

Day 11:

After a delicious hotel breakfast, enjoy a day at leisure to explore Innsbruck, perhaps taking a walk beside the Inn river or past the fountains and pavilion of the Innsbrucker Hofgarten, landscaped royal palace gardens which date from the early 15th century.

Innsbruck is a city of many delightful churches, including the baroque cathedral with its famous Madonna and Child painting by Lukas Cranach the Elder, as well as the gothic Hofkirche.

Another notable architectural wonder in Innsbruck’s Altstadt is the Golden Roof, a glorious copper-tiled roof built in 1500 to mark the occasion of the marriage of Maximilian I to Bianca Maria Sforza.

Day 12:

This morning, we board the train down the Inn valley to Munich, where we change trains and continue to Cologne.

Passing through the historic cities of Augsburg and Ulm, and fairy-tale towns such as Schwäbisch Gmünd and Limberg and der Lahn, we then arrive at our Rhine-side destination of Cologne, dominated by its imposing, twin-spired Gothic cathedral.

Day 13:

After breakfast today our wonderful festive tour concludes as we travel from Cologne to Brussels, before catching our final train, the Eurostar, to London St Pancras.

On arrival at St Pancras we say farewell to our travelling companions and recall the winter wonders we have witnessed in Italy and Austria.

 

Stubaitalbahn 31 December 2024

Church from Stubaitalbahn 31.12.24

Church from Stubaitalbahn 31.12.24

We are nearing the end of the holiday today and we are going to travel on the Stubaitalbahn which these days is an 18km tram trip into rural areas.  The first section now uses local tram tracks but as we leave the town and commence climbing it is then branch line status running to Fulpmes.  The line was opened in 1904 so has seen service now for over 120 years and seems well used with modern stock as it winds its way round and through villages – we see at least three sides on one particular church spire as we travel.  The service frequency on the last part of the line is relatively low with some trams turning around at an intermediate stop.

Reaching the destination it looks cold outside and so we choose to sit in the tram until the return journey commences – but there is ice and falls are not a good idea.

Bergisel ski jump 31.12.24

Bergisel ski jump 31.12.24

Also visible is the Bergisel ski jump which is the latest of a series of ski jumps – this one was completed in 2003 replacing the version used for the 1976 Winter Olympics.  It is one of the major ski jumps in the World being part of the “Four Hills Tournament”.

The best bit of the return journey which I work out as we descend it is that in Innsbruck the trams appear to operate around a one way loop, so that we can leave the tram not very far at all from the hotel and whilst it takes a few minutes to establish bearings (so much easier with maps on mobile phones these days) we can visit a café just across the road from the hotel and consume some warming vittels and then dive straight back into the hotel.

By and large I think we have come to the conclusion that holidays with snow and ice and not suitable for us – the risk / reward ratio does not seem to work well and I am glad that our time in Italy on this trip was not (for us) particularly cold – indeed in Sirmione out of the wind it was pleasant and (unlike the summer) not overcrowded.

And the brochure extract says:

Our New Year celebrations begin with a journey through the wintry scenery of the Stubai Valley aboard the narrow-gauge Stubaitalbahn.

From Innsbruck, it winds up through gentle meadows, providing great views of the city below. Passing sleepy villages, the route then plunges into a landscape of icy forests and alpine meadows laden with snow, before winding its way down to the peaceful valley town of Fulpmes.

The Stubai Valley Railway – Stubaitalbahn, in the native tongue – was opened in 1904 and has grown in passenger numbers ever since, no doubt owed to the beautiful scenery it enjoys on its one hour trip from Fulpmes to Innsbruck. Along the journey, the train passes many spectacular sights including the Mutters and Kreither viaduct.

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