Holidays and Other Excursions

Category: Holidays (Page 1 of 9)

Spanish Paradors 11.9.25

We take one look out of the window this morning and we confirm that not going to La Coruna is absolutely brilliant idea – the rain is pouring and the forecasts do not indicate any let up all day.

Breakfast here is not as great as it was at the first Parador; the best solution is ordering an omelette.  So they may operate to the same decor but the standards for breakfast do vary (both are four star).

We have visited La Coruna previously on a cruise we took in around 2012/3 on one of the Cunard Queens so we feel we would see no more today and get very wet.

At lunchtime we take a stroll down the hill as I had spotted another restaurant and we book a table this evening for six of the group as we want to ensure we do not have difficulties finding somewhere to eat.

The rest of the day is spent reading, catching up on various magazines.

In the evening we have a good evening at the restaurant and wine bar – Jackie goes for a very expensive bottle of wine but it is very good.  Just nice to have  a chat with different people and whilst the food is not outstanding I suspect it is better than the hotel.

Spanish Paradors 10.9.25

Santiago de Compostela 10.9.25

Santiago de Compostela 10.9.25

We technically reach the end of the Camino Way today – we are not walking it and I believe these days it is not compulsory to walk the entire distance at one go.

The city centre is largely far free and so we are dropped a walk away from there.  All well and good but one of our number slightly overdoes it and the return journey is a little more fraught.

We arrive in time to join the daily service which marks the end of the journey and the place is packed.  Most of our fellow travellers do not stay but we wish to see the experience – a full Catholic Mass plus the swinging of an immense incense burner.  It probably looks more dangerous than it actually is and getting photos proves none too easy.

Santiago Cathedral 10.9.25

Santiago Cathedral 10.9.25

The incense burner can just be seen in the photograph.

Knowing that this evening we will be eating in a small establishment close to the Parador we visit the Parador just off the square and enjoy a light lunch coming across a somewhat Spanish phenomenon.  At an adjacent table an individual takes a seat and orders.  He proceeds to read the newspaper whilst having a radio on the table turned up enough to be annoying.  The experience repeats later in the week with a sole diner so assume it is socially acceptable – something which in the UK would bring all sorts of frowns and complaints.

In the evening we walk around the back of the Parador and visit a small bar which we just about fill.  We are served the local tapas, all very simple and local home cooked food and a different way to spend the evening and very cheap to assist the holiday budget stay in balance.

We largely avoided the rain today but we note that tomorrow is intended to be very wet.  We decide that we will stay in the hotel and have a rest day.

 

Spanish Paradors 9.9.25

Oviedo Cathedral 9.9.25

Oviedo Cathedral 9.9.25

Having had two nights in Limpias this morning we also take our cases with us as we head down and out as we are moving along the northern coast.  Excellent roads would make local driving very simple.

Our initial destination is the town of Oviedo and the guide had been talking expansively about it being the capital of the local cider industry.  As a Spanish town it has a large church and a square.

La Regenta 9.9.25

La Regenta 9.9.25

 

The statue of La Regenta is a pictorial recognition of the heroine of a book which has become recognised belatedly as a classic of Spanish literature who lived and wrote in Oviedo and the books are set in the city.

After visiting these we walk to the market and I acquire a new belt as my existing ones have all given up the unenviable task of restraining my gut from wandering around.

Cheeses Oviedo 9.9.25

Cheeses Oviedo 9.9.25

In the market there was cheese for sale.  Regrettably the UK government currently prevents import of European cheese because there was a small foot and mouth outbreak in the Spring  – soon brought under control – the continuance of the ban is unfathomable.

We then wander back and, based on the recommendation, decide that the place to get some lunch is the Calle Gascona – with about 15 bars serving food and cider.  We cannot recommend it.  I think we try four different establishments.  We struggle to attract interest from the staff, to find anything in English as a menu (and at this point do not get me started on Google translate which appears to struggle with the menus here).  When we do get seated relatively comfortable and with a menu of which we can make sense we probably both make poor choices.  I went for the dish described in terms of being as “grandmother used to make” (paraphrasing) and I had forgotten just how poor the area once was and consequently the nature of the available foods.

Other people may have different experiences but interestingly one commentator suffered equally badly in this street and then ate elsewhere and did remarkably well.  If only he had been before us and not after!!

After lunch we went onto Gijon a pleasant coastal town.  The coach rolled to a stop outside an unexpected and unplanned treasure – a railway museum which has a neat collection of trains – standard gauge, narrow gauge and industrial on display and kept me happily occupied for quite some time.

Rail Museum Gijon 9.9.25

Rail Museum Gijon 9.9.25

I could add numerous photos and direct you elsewhere for an in depth review.  This is a former mine locomotive built I believe by Dufel.  However there is a lot in a small space and in an adjacent yard much more waiting restoration.

We did find time to visit the beach before moving on to Parador de Vilalba where we have three nights.  Walking into the room was a touch of deja vu as it is fitted out almost identically to the previous Parador – which was a slight surprise but once over the shock at least we can soon find everything!

Spanish Paradors 8.9.25

Santander Cathedral 8.9.25

Santander Cathedral 8.9.25

Regrettably, although we fly in and out of Bilbao, we do not actually visit the city.  Today is an out and back trip to Santander and later Santillana del Mer.

Santander first and it is a large port on the Atlantic coast or perhaps more accurately on the southern side of the Bay of Biscay and as such it is in direct line of weather coming from the west.  Today that reflects the grey and damp days which come with such a location, the Bay being infamous for the adverse weather conditions.

Our initial stop is at a lighthouse, Cabo Mayor, which provides views over the sea and also towards Santander and the Bay of Santander.

Santander Cathderal decoration 8.9.25

Santander Cathderal decoration 8.9.25

The coach then returns us to the waterfront in Santander and we are also to walk through a park and the town centre  eventually reaching the magnificent cathedral.

1941 fire Santander 8.9.25

1941 fire Santander 8.9.25

In February 1941 a fire started in Cadiz Street adjacent to the Docks and a strong south wind fanned the fire and it swept through much of city reaching to the Cathedral.  Reconstruction of the destroyed area (around 14 hectares) took 25 years.  More recently it has been commemorated with a statue.  Only one life was lost in the fire.

Santillana del Mer 8.9.25

Santillana del Mer 8.9.25

Driving inland we come to Santillana del Mer which lays claim to being one of the prettiest villages in Spain.  On a damp turning very wet grey day I remain unconvinced by that claim, although it is certainly attractive and pictures are taken as we wander around.

Cider is important in this part of Spain we are advised and find our way to a place which is delivering said drink and food which are welcome.

Local Beer 8.9.25

Local Beer 8.9.25

We return to the parador where the heavily worked bar staff manage to serve us all – but it can take some time.  I indulge in the local beer as I cannot drink cider.  As we are a little way out of the village we choose to eat in the parador restaurant and we enjoy a pretty good meal – but again the limited staff numbers mean that there are delays – which do not bother us too much but certainly lead to some discontent.  Nothing to do with our tour but the management are simply trying to do too much with too few people.

 

Spanish Paradors 7.9.25

Castro Urdiales church 7.9.25

Castro Urdiales church 7.9.25

Our outward journey commenced yesterday in reality as we decided (in the light of an incredibly early flight) to dine at Sorrel in Dorking and then stay in a hotel adjacent to the airport overnight.  We still manage to reach check in very early.  Once again Vueling want the passenger to label their own bags – a practice I hate as if it goes wrong who is responsible.

Go wrong it does.  I am summoned at the gate to the desk and asked to confirm that the bag is Jackie’s as they cannot scan the barcode.  Why is it all so difficult plus hours of waiting around doing nothing useful.

It is a relatively short flight down to Bilbao and we are on time throughout.  It does not take long to emerge with cases (it has arrived despite the unreadable bar code).  We appear to lose one traveller but depart – the tour guide will be with us later as there is a later flight coming in from Manchester.

Castro Urdiales 7.9.25

Castro Urdiales 7.9.25

With such an early flight we know the rooms will not be ready and so the tour operator has arranged for our coach to take us to Castro Urdiales.   We are dropped and wander down to the sea front.  It is a smart town and there are a large number of cafés along the front – but given the time it is too early for lunch.  Eating times in Spain always provide a slight problem which our body clocks find more difficult than the one hour time difference.  Lunch type food tends not to be available before about 13:30 and in the evenings dinner before 20:00 is just not possible and usually later.

I walk up the hill to get a closer look at the church and castle, plus some photos from a different angle.

Apparently Castro Urdiales is a favoured destination generated by the power of AI – at least according to the BBC.

We return to the coach and are taken to the Parador de Limpias which has a modern block for the rooms attached to the older building.  However the rooms are comfortable and better sized than in Iceland!  We have a group meeting before dinner which tells us a little about the week ahead.  The slight surprise is that the tour will be unguided in the individual towns and cities – which is a contrast to most of the tours we book.

Homeward Bound 1.8.25

MS Jane Austen 1.8.25

MS Jane Austen 1.8.25

The end of the holiday and time for the next journey so we step away from the MS Jane Austen.  Jackie is travelling with others on the normal return journey – a coach and Eurostar then Thameslink and GWR in a straight reverse of the outward journey.

I have my own trip programmed –  taking an Interrail excursion at 71 (although technically it is not Interrail as I shall be staying in France).   That story continues over on the Railways blog as (of course) I am not travelling with my wife.

Coach home 1.8.25

Coach home 1.8.25

So I wave her coach farewell before heading off.  I suspect Jackie is convinced that I cannot possibly manage three nights travelling on my own without getting lost or into trouble – but at least I have my passport.

This has been a good holiday.  A mixture of relaxation and visiting new places.  Two locations struck off the long list of places to visit – Monet’s Garden and Versailles plus a chance to see Rouen and Honfleur.  Well worthwhile.

Versailles 31.7.25

Versailles Statues 31.7.25

Versailles Statues 31.7.25

When we booked this trip we knew we would have a free day in Paris so by looking at the berthing location it was clear that it was a walk across the road onto the Metro which had a fast direct service to Versailles – it seemed an obvious way of using the day.

About three weeks before departure (so almost four weeks ago) I decided to check the detail using the ratp journey planner.  After some “fun” I find out a few things.  First up track works disrupting services are NOT loaded into the ratp journey planner until three weeks prior to operation even when they are known about and planned months in advance.  Reading the website showed that the relevant line was disrupted in July and August – but the journey planner was showing normal journeys because it was more than 3 weeks before the journey date.  Hence if you have issued a press release saying the line is disrupted then you must be able to update the journey planner, indeed why would anyone not do so?  Unless you are from Paris obviously.  It turns out that the relevant line is completely closed for today, not a single service will run.  So working out where we are and the nearest metro station turns the journey into an initial walk, three trains and then something like 20 minutes’ walk at Versailles as we no longer arrive at the nearest station.  This does not sound like fun and my plans are over-ruled – we shall go by taxi!

For the Palace we had made an 11:30 booking and, unlike the Pena Palace, Versailles clear the 11am queue and then immediately start letting the 11:30 booking line in with only a short delay – so although the very hot weather has returned we do not spend too long standing in the sun which is welcome.

Royal Chapel Versailles 31.7.25

Royal Chapel Versailles 31.7.25

My Canon appears to have gone on the blink this morning and so all shots were taken with my phone.  These days can you tell the difference?  A lot of my photos appear to be of the ceilings – simply because of the crowds – which have always been true of the palace I suppose.

Given the heat and the walking when we find we have not booked access to the gardens I am not that bothered – they are obviously extensive but the grounds close to the palace are closed and being reworked and those further afield look like being a long walk – so on the whole being prevented from going further is a good thing.

Hall of Mirrors Versailles 31.7.25

Hall of Mirrors Versailles 31.7.25

Versailles is impressive – but the crowds are difficult – there are several guided tours ahead of us and it is impossible to take in more than an impression of the grandeur which exists.  The Hall of Mirrors remains the standout of course but I wonder how much is lost in the crush.  We get a reasonable lunch and then head back out towards where I had spotted taxis earlier and indeed there is a taxi rank very close which is at variance with the guidance found online so we are soon taken back to the boat to enable packing before our final dinner.

Monet’s House and Garden Giverny 30.7.25

Giverny Bridge 30.7.25

Giverny Bridge 30.7.25

This morning we are moored in Vernon and looking at weather reports online for Vernon implied it was far nicer than it actually looked outside using window.  After some research it is established that there is another Vernon in Canada and somehow that comes up on a search and not Vernon France.  Here, regrettably, it is actually raining intermittently.  So the waterproofs were worth bringing and are put on.

The mooring is on the north bank of the Seine whilst our destination is on the south bank and so there is a twenty minute coach ride to reach Monet’s House and Garden in Giverney where our group is second only to Nicko Cruise in obtaining entrance.  Both groups are allowed entry well before the advertised opening time.

Water Garden 30.7.25

Water Garden 30.7.25

We go first to the Water Garden which is accessed by a walkway under the main road but it is initially surprisingly quiet.  The numbers visiting are large but not impossible at this stage but it gets steadily busier.  However I think getting any photographs (other than close ups) without people is impossible.  The water gardens are stunning – although it is the wrong time of year for water lilies to be in bloom it is still a lovely setting.

Monet Garden 30.7.25

Monet Garden 30.7.25

Passing back under the road we then visit the main garden which is colourful before joining the queue for the house.  They are limiting entrance to the house and the queue does slowly grow behind us – we are waiting about 15 minutes which is adequate – by the time we come out I suspect that the queue length has nearly doubled.

Monet House 30.7.25

Monet House 30.7.25

We head out and obtain a cup of coffee and an indoor seat just before the rain starts pouring down very heavily which continues for some time following which we move to the meeting point.

Then we return to Jane Austen and continue smoothly along the Seine towards Paris, once again we have the pleasure of watching the countryside pass by, catch up some reading and can remember that holidays are also for resting as well as seeing new things.

Honfleur 29.7.25

Honfleur Salt Cellar 29.7.25

Honfleur Salt Cellar 29.7.25

It is a shorter coach journey today for a half day excursion to Honfleur which is where the Seine reaches the sea.

Between the mooring point and our destinations yesterday and today our coach crosses all three modern bridges in the area easing communication between the two sides of the Seine.  These are Pont de Brotonne (close to Caudebecquet), Pont de Tancarville and Pont de Normandie which links the Honfleur (south side) to Le Havre (north side) of the Seine and which we once used many years ago to gain the ferry to return to the UK after a holiday in the Loire.

Honfleur town was once famous for salt cellars, three originally, there are now two.  They existed because the salt was needed to preserve the fishing catch.  The cellars are constructed of great blocks of limestone with wooden vaulting ceilings erected by craftsmen word worker who were normally ship builders so the roofs echoing hulls of ships.

Old Harbour Honfleur 29.7.25

Old Harbour Honfleur 29.7.25

The complexity of the various buildings on the side of the Old Harbour which is at the heart of the town came about by the need for money of the owner who sold the right to build on the land adjacent to the Harbour and the properties were built with direct access to the Harbour.  When the owner later ran short of money she then sold the ability to build a further four or five stories above the earlier construction with access from the street away from the quayside – so the properties had two owners.  This trickery did not go down at all well.

St Catherine Honfleur 29.7.25

St Catherine Honfleur 29.7.25

The church of Saint Catherine burned down and the replacement wooden church was again designed by local people versed in the art of shipbuilding giving another opportunity for those hull like structures to be deployed.

The fishing fleet of small boats is now virtually extinct (rather similar to the position in the UK) and the harbour is now rather more full of modern luxury sailing boats.

We return to the MS Jane Austen for lunch and in the middle of the afternoon we start retracing our steps along the Seine towards Paris.  It is very restful to once again watch the countryside pass by.  As with our trip along the Rhine a few years ago this is also a working river so we are passing other working vessels.

Bayeux and D Day Beaches 28.7.25

Harold Bayeux Tapestry

Harold Bayeux Tapestry

We are moored at Caudebec en Caen.  Whilst I am sure that our river boat could navigate further along the river we will spend two nights here and our excursions to the channel coast will be by coach.  Today is the longest excursion on this tour with an early start – as we shall be visiting the sight of the D Day landings near Arromanches this afternoon but first we head to Bayeux to visit the famous tapestry.

Historically the experts now agree the Bayeux Embroidery was created in Southern England at the request of Bishop Odo, brother of William the Bastard (as he was known until he became the Conqueror), to reflect the various promises that William would inherit the English crown made by Edward the Confessor.  Bishop Odo was the Bishop of Bayeux.

My picture above comes from Aspects of History which argues that whilst the scene is depicted above the limited contemporary records refer to Harold being seriously mutilated and hard to identify – so just maybe that famous story is not entirely true!

We are given handheld recorders describing the embroidery scene by scene.  All well and good as it indicates the supposed pace of movement – except that some in front of us seem unable to move forward at the inherent pace so I am constantly trying to look a couple of scenes ahead to see what is being described; it is not possible to pause the recording as it is a crowd control issue.  The Tapestry (it is actually technically an embroidery) will be coming to the British Museum in 2027 so I wonder what visitor numbers it will attract.

Bayeux Cathedral 28.7.25

Bayeux Cathedral 28.7.25

We also have a few spare minutes to see the exterior of Bayeux Cathedral.

Remains of Mulberry Harbour 28.7.25

Remains of Mulberry Harbour 28.7.25

At Arromanches we visit the D Day landing museum.  One aspect new to me is that Mulberry Harbour A (American) was destroyed in the bad weather which came soon after D Day and only the B (British) Harbour could be used to bring in everything until November 1944.  The advancing forces took Antwerp in the September but there was no clear path until the conclusion of the Battle of the Scheldt to open and clear the estuary for use by Allied Troops.  The logistics of the Mulberry Harbour as a single point of failure must have caused many sleepless nights for those concerned.

We then visit the D Day Arromanches British War Graves – here dominated by the large numbers of very young soldiers.   We then move onto the relatively recent (June 2021) British Normandy Memorial recording the names of the 22,442 individuals under UK command who lost their lives between 6 June 1944 and 31 August 1944.  It was brought into being after it was noted that other nations already had a dedicated memorial.

It has been beautifully completed.  These European reminders of the horrors of the two World Wars did not stop the Argentinians in 1982 and seem to have no recognition currently in either Israel or Russia who continue their plans to grab the territory of others.  Indeed there has recently been talk of the USA demanding that Canada and Greenland become part of that country.

Standing with Giants 28.7.25

Standing with Giants 28.7.25

For D Day 80 1475 silhouettes names “Standing with Giants” were placed on the hillside below the Memorial and they returned this summer representing those lost under British command on 6 June 1944.  It commenced as a small community project but these images have appeared widely over the last few years.

 

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