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Iceland – Day 3

10 March 2024 / admin

Icelandic Landscape

Saturday 9.3.24

Given our late night yesterday dragging ourselves to catch the coach is a challenge. Breakfast in the hotel is self service and self delivery of used crockery to a trolley – no frills here. The breakfast is largely cold – although there was porridge.

Today we are doing the “Golden Circle” – another of the inventions of the Iceland Tourist Board (or equivalent thereof). This is a trip into the hinterland to the east of the capital mainly through the mountains. Our first destination is the Thingvellir National Park which was the home of the Icelandic Parliament from 930 to 1798 (all AD as there were no settlements until around 870 AD). Essentially an annual gathering where first the laws were recited as they were not codified in writing for a long time and the attendees were then able to resolve legal disputes or conclude matters by fighting duels on adjacent islands.

The location is spectacular as it is at the point where the American and European tectonic plates are slowly separating – with a huge fissure running through the site. It is a very slow movement so unlikely to see changes in a lifetime.

At the end of the walk to the coach we pass the “Drowning Pool”. Should an unmarried lady become pregnant then she was dropped into the pool and drowned. Male adulterers and murders were beheaded. Lesser punishments applied for lesser crimes.

Gulfoss Waterfall

We move onto the Gullfoss waterfall decent but not as large as some which we have seen! I take the opportunity to walk down the steps maximising my activity today. Jackie meanwhile acquires an Icelandic woolly!

Two more stops as we retrace our steps towards Reykjavik. First the geysers spouting from the ground. We passed the location earlier in the day and I think the best outburst I saw was as we drove past. Whilst we were there they were not so striking.

Then in the town of Hverageroi we pause at the Sunnumork Shopping Center which has a plate glass floor enabling visitors to stand with one foot on either side of the European / American tectonic plates. This area has huge numbers of thermal greenhouses permitting many vegetables and fruit to be grown in warm conditions – supplied by use of the geothermal energy which the islanders tap and for which the main plant we pass on our return to the capital a little further along. This is very scenic as we climb through some of the mountains.

Originally we had anticipated that the hunt for the Northern Lights would be tonight – so we had not booked anywhere for dinner. On walking through the town we had spotted various possibilities and choose a Thai restaurant. Whilst a relatively inexpensive place there is nothing to tempt us back.

Iceland – Day 2 – Part 2

9 March 2024 / admin

Northern Lights

Friday 8.3.2024 (still)

Having dined and returned to the hotel at 21:00 we depart in search of the Aurora Borealis or Northern Lights. One of the first questions posed on arrival was which evening this excursion would take place. Local forecasts are published by the Icelandic met office of when they are likely to be visible and checking these before leaving the UK it looked like not seeing them was the probable outcome. (We had noted similar forecasts are available in Alaska last year when we were cruising there – but we were then far too late in the year for sight of the Lights).

Our local tour guide has no doubt consulted similar resources and so we head off this evening. As we progress there is some indication that there are some lights behind us – but it is also certain from the lack of stars that there is very little clear sky with a cloud layer. However on the positive side it is not anywhere near as cold as we had been anticipating – and I doubt the temperature has actually reached zero.

Finally around 23:00 it is incontrovertible that there are Northern Lights. Modern digital cameras are better at capturing what is there than either the naked eye or an analogue camera – where simply film would be wasted attempting to capture anything at all. Hunting the Lights has really only taken off since digital cameras became available.

More Northern Lights

The coach companies obviously know that other facilities are needed and we park in a car park with a set of toilets. The following day we find ourselves back in exactly the same location as it is adjacent to the sights we are seeing.

Jackie is unimpressed and claims that they are merely part of the huge Icelandic campaign to encourage visitors and that they are about as real as the moon landings (qv Houston).

At one point as we had seen nothing definitive (due in main to the cloudy sky) the tour manager and guide were discussing moving elsewhere and indeed we were all asked to return to the coach (Jackie and I were already aboard as in my case I had no wish to get colder than was absolutely necessary and although the coach heating was off it was out of the chill. The drawback was that in the dark the numbers of participants did not add up and I had quite serious concerns that we might actually leave two people behind. Such a minor

However I believe I have seen them and whilst it was not an impressive display there was something there. And we eventually get to bed around 1am.

Iceland – Day 2 – Part 1

9 March 2024 / admin

Icelandic Presidential Residence

Friday 8.3.2024

This morning we have a tour of the capital and commence by heading out to the Presidential Residence at Bessastaðir which is important in that it was a Royal property during the period when Iceland was part of Norway. It later became the location of the Danish official residence, although the current building is far more recent having been extensively reconstructed in the last years of the twentieth century during which a significant archaeological survey found evidence dating back to the earliest settlements in Iceland around 874AD – although Irish monks may have been here even earlier.

Whilst initial settlement may have been from Norway, the states of Norway, Sweden and Denmark were united between 1397 and 1523 following which the island was under Danish control. In 1941 with Denmark having fallen to Germany the local residents politely requested a British invasion and Churchill responded by sending 25,000 troops to safeguard the island. We are told that much of the subsequent development of the country can be attributed to our friendly involvement (we are a group of British travellers after all) – with independence being granted from Denmark in 1944 and with Churchill even suggesting tapping the geothermal energy which the country uses – this may be stretching matters a little far!

Sun Voyager sculpture

We return to the capital and drive along the sea front to inspect the Sun Voyager sculpture – which is almost impossible to photograph without people in front of it and a typically moody sky behind as can be seen! Further along parts of the area have been significantly redeveloped to give Iceland a modern concert hall and other facilities expected of a European Capital City. At the other end of the town is the old port area which has largely lost ship building but sees an awful lot of fishing as that remains a major enterprise with large boats with very small crews undertaking factory style fishing.

Our onward journey takes us to Perlan – but mainly to take advantage of the views and a brief rest break. The final tour destination is Hallgrimskirkja – a huge and fairly modern church, completed in 1986, with some distinctive architecture which can be seen from all around the capital. Outside is a statue of Leif Erikson a 1930 gift from the USA in celebration of 1000 years of democracy.

Hallgrimskirkja

After lunch our second excursion is to the Sky Lagoon. It is on the edge of Reykjavik and is completely man made with heated sea water. I could not find much about it online so have written these notes – just in case anyone else wishes to visit the place to provide details on the practical arrangements as these do not seem to be readily available. There are currently two levels of access – Pure and Sky – and we were on the Pure level so I cannot comment on the benefits of the enhanced level (Sky).

Prior to entry we were given a pink wristband and a black band, the latter applies to entry to the “Rituals” which form part of the booking. If booking direct you have the ability to associate a credit card with the pink wristband (although we did not have any means of payment with us).

Shoes need to be removed prior to entering the changing area – reasonable but you may also wish to remove socks as areas can be wet inside – this may be obvious but is worth noting. There are numerous lockers and those available have a green light. The lockers appear to be pretty secure but we had removed all jewellery and watches before setting out. My watches are getting on a bit in age so I was not carrying one – the last time I had a holiday swim one of my watches had a watery intake and ticked its last! There is a lack of any clocks visible – I could only establish the time later by using the credit card terminal in the café!

It is communal so you may wish to arrive wearing swimming attire under your clothes. Once changed all items can be secured in the locker, door push closed and the lump on the pink wristband applied to the light which turns the light red and the door is locked. My belief is the same locker can be opened and closed more than once until the band is returned on departure, although I did not try this, others did.

Some people were certainly carrying mobile phones in a water protector and apparently taking photos.

At the exit from the changing rooms towards the lagoon area there are towels for your return later and little cubicles for the storage of flip flops or similar.

Descent into the lagoon is down some steps with a handrail. The water depth is under 4ft and fairly consistent. The surface underfoot is not completely flat and therefore not slippery but it is not at all uneven. Temperature is maintained above body temperature so it always feels warm and most people will largely walk around knees bent to avoid exposing too much skin to the chillier cold air.

The lagoon twists first to the left and then to the right before opening up to a wide area with distances harder to judge. Facing out to sea at this point away to the far right is a waterfall. Around to the left almost behind you is a pool bar where drinks can be obtained. Given that we had not brought means of payment I cannot advise on cost.

Sensibly you can charge drinks to your wristband and then settle up with a credit card stored in your locker whilst in the lagoon. I believe we were over cautious in not taking card or phone. The latter needs proper protection with a waterproof case but the lockers appear completely secure and so the opportunities for a more relaxed approach is possible.

Obviously we manage to join the return coach – the most difficult problem without a watch or phone was knowing how long we had left!

Dinner this evening is taken in Jorgensen Kitchen and Bar which is a short walk from the Klettur Hotel where we are staying. A decent meal and the only drawback is that it is uphill back to the hotel!

Iceland – Day 1

8 March 2024 / admin

Heathrow T5 Pod Parking

Thursday 7.3.24

Today, for my sins, is my seventieth birthday and in celebration we are on a plane for the island of Iceland and a short visit based in Reykjavik with the intention of experiencing as much of the sights as may be possible.

Over the last three to four months the island has been experiencing volcanic activity – mainly on the Rekyanes Peninsula which is the south western corner of the island and unlike earlier activity this is less lava spewing from huge volcanoes but the earth splitting open and lava flowing out and around the area – part destroying one town. The eruption is also close to the famous Blue Lagoon and several days before we depart the operator (Newmarket) has taken the view that the Lagoon, although open, is the subject of various restrictions and a need for rapid evacuation should there be further eruptions so advise that we will instead be visiting the Sky Lagoon which is closer to the capital.

These recent eruptions are very different to those of a few years ago with no significant amounts of ash or changes to the atmospheric conditions so there are no flight restrictions being imposed at the current time.

The first excitement of the day is at Heathrow. Jackie has booked the Pod Parking at Terminal 5 so we park up and then a little pod takes us from the parking area into the terminal – all with no fuss and all entirely automated. A long standing wish to experience this facility has been achieved!

Once in Iceland we are driving across what looks like fairly barren lava fields for nearly an hour before reaching the capital itself. We later gather than the lava is being covered by moss and that is starting the long process of breaking the rocks down to eventually form soil – but the lave flows are simply new Iceland as it steadily grows in size – it is a very young land mass.

I do not know if it is standard in Iceland but the hotel room in small – about the smallest ever for a twin room. I think Premier Inn are larger. We do walk down towards the town and along one of the two main streets as we want to know where we are going for dinner.

My birthday dinner is at Dill – a Michelin starred restaurant in the centre of the town. We are unlikely to return, given the location but they gave an excellent account of local foods and all were excellently prepared and served.

Madeira – Winery visits

29 January 2024 / admin

Thursday 25.1.24

Originally we had two outings planned – one to taste food locally in Funchal and the second to visit wineries. The first was cancelled and we suspect that the company went out of its way to ensure the second trip went ahead. We were told we would visit three contrasting wineries to showcase the variety of wine now being produced.

Madeira wine dates back over two centuries and on our previous visit we went to the Blandy’s wine lodge in the centre of Funchal. Madeira wine is sweet and about 20 years it was felt that Madeira could undertake the growth of more grapes and extend production to regular table wines and two of the three wineries we visit today are part of the development with the government financing the processing plants which the growers rent to use.

Our first destination is Octávio Ferraz – Vinhos Madeirenses. The owner, a former teacher, setup around 20 years ago/ He converted the terraces alongside the family home into a vineyard and became a small wine producer on the edge of the hill side between Funchal and Camara de Lobos. The garden of the house has been developed as a fascinating little garden – with some fish in a pond, a couple of sheep, some chickens and ducks plus a couple of rabbits lollopping around the various levels – with the adjacent terraces planted with grapes. A small vineyard and many plants adding to the aroma enables small production all of which is sold locally to hotels and similar and shows dedication to the cause.

The entire place is delightful but must be hard work given the terraces and the climbing up and down. The stairs are numerous and we do not go to the terraces where the grapes are grown which are another couple of levels down and along from the gardens. We are treated to a decent wine tasting before we move onwards.

Our second destination is a much larger scale producer and it also enables us to see a little more of the island as we head towards the Quinta do Barbusano winery which is close to Sao Vincente in the north of the island. There is a nice modern road under the mountains – the old road over the mountains would have taken much longer! We have not previously seen much other than Funchal and the mountainous nature of the island becomes clearer. The roads still twist a little – but nothing I am sure compared to the old mountain road.

The climate in the north of the island here feels different with salty sea air blowing in from the Atlantic Ocean and therefore slightly cooler with huge terraces planted to vines which we walk through. A much larger production capability and as we later discover a wider range of wine types – although they also have other vineyards so production is not solely from this location. Again it is family owned and the wide range can be seen in the photo above.

They also provide an excellent traditional Madeiran lunch that includes beef on bay laurel skewers along with boiled potatoes, salad and ‘bolo do caco’ with garlic butter. There are some goats wandering through the vines which we spot whilst eating lunch.

We then return closer to Funchal and the Barbeito winery – this produces the sweet Madeira wine but being the youngest such producer – only since 1946 – it tends to be more innovative than the longer established producers. Although sweet I feel I must do my duty of tasting the output. All excellent. This has a very small row of wines at the front – but most of the vineyard is further away. I suspect that they also buy in supplies as they have some very large vats and barrels, although not to the scale of the port wine producers we saw in the Douro valley a couple of years ago.

We are returned to Funchal having enjoyed the services of a guide and a driver for the entire day. Is too much drinking bad for you? A wonderful trip out.

Madeira 20 – 27 January 2024

28 January 2024 / admin

Hotel Cocktail

This is a return visit to Funchal for us – we spent a week at Reid’s Palace in June 2010 and hardly left the hotel – our intention this time is an expectation to see a little more of the island. We did make an intermediate visit a few years ago when travelling on Cunard when we were moored in the bay ready for the fireworks on New Year’s Day 2012 – which were pretty fantastic and included setting an adjacent hillside alight.

As a result of an unbelievable offer this time we are staying at Hotel Porto Santa Maria which is adjacent to the Old Town of Funchal and only just above sea level. With the main aim of seeing some sun during what has been a grey winter at home with a lot of rain. The hotel is part of the Porto Bay group which also own Cliff Bay, adjacent to Reid’s Palace at the other end of town and other locations. The central part of the hotel is of some vintage and has been sympathetically extended. I do not believe it is full during our time here and certainly at breakfast they could manage the demand, although there were hints that sometimes a wait might be needed. The hotel is well maintained, the staff were generally excellent and the other occupants to whom we spoke did seem to be repeat visitors – which in itself speaks highly of the place.

immediately outside the hotel and running parallel to the sea – but one street back – is a completely pedestrianised street with restaurants on both sides – one end leading into the fort and the other end the centre of the town. Most evenings we eat at one of the restaurants. We had a good meal at the restaurant in the Fort itself – which can arrange special trips in some vintage cars they maintain. Another night we ate in an Indian restaurant as well as a couple of others – all of a good standard and there were several more which I have no doubt could achieve equally good standards.

We had booked one night at a fado – which is not native to the island but has migrated here from the mainland. Our choice was Restaurante Sabor a Fado – you come out of the hotel and it is the first fado you reach. A small family run place – and the family do the singing as well! The place was packed and whilst we might not understand a word of the singing the emotion was much to the fore. There is at least one other fado a little further up the same road – so somewhere to go next time we visit.

We also booked dinner one evening at Reid’s Palace where they have rebranded or upgraded their main restaurant – Williams. We had the tasting menu and wines and as might be expected from a Belmond restaurant was absolutely top class. We took taxis both ways as there is a steep hill between the two hotels. Reid’s has another restaurant – Ristorante Villa Cipriani which we sampled on our previous visit, but not this time.

Camara de Lobos

Our hotel had a list of the visiting cruise ships which berth close to the hotel and the numbers on board have a huge impact on the usage of the open top buses and the cable car. Many take the cable car to Monte and then return (half way) by the wicker toboggans. We did this on our previous visit and whilst I would be happy to repeat the experience there are always new things to do. We decided this time to take one of the open top bus routes (there are several) and it is best to choose a day when there are not numerous cruise ships in the port! There are at least three open top tours and ours took us to Camara de Lobos – the neighbouring fishing port. We stayed on – the vehicle was well loaded as there were cruise ships in port and we did not want to get stuck and unable to return – but they are supposed to operate as hop on and off – we did not see many people doing that.

We had one day out of Funchal – prior to departure we had booked two tours – one on foot sampling food in Funchal and a second to visit wineries. The first was cancelled and I will make a separate post about our other day out.

Overall an excellent week away. I suspect there remains much which can be done in Madeira which we have not covered and at some point we will return.

USA- Deep South – 13

11 November 2023 / admin

NASA Gateway

Friday 10.11.23

A late afternoon flight departing Houston arriving at Heathrow early on Saturday morning. After very nearly two busy weeks it seems appropriate to take it easy this morning, pack and get ready for the trip so no additional exploring.

The trip has been fantastic. All of the anticipated highlights achieved and we have seen much of the recent history of American music from the part of the world. Alongside that two of the famous names trains – The City of New Orleans and The Sunset Limited. Graceland, Casey Jones, Tina Turner’s school and the related museum, a paddle steamer on the Mississippi plus the wonders of Space Center, Houston, particularly the Apollo Mission control room and not forgetting the peak at the history of Martin Luther King and Lookout Mountain. And of course the Peabody Ducks in Memphis.

The organisation of the trip all worked extremely well, the tour manager was capable and able to ensure that matters run smoothly – a good tour manager knowing what is going to happen and ensuring it does and being prepared when things need to change (such as the breakfast in Memphis when the train failed to appear) as well as being visible and knowing answers when asked all make it so much easier for the participants.

After flying back from Vancouver in somewhat uncomfortable Premium Economy we bit the bullet and came back business class – so we were assured at least some sleep and relatively comfortable flat beds for this journey.

We have covered something like 10400 miles – probably more given some of the routings and city tours as routes were not always direct. An excellent holiday.

USA – Deep South – 12

10 November 2023 / admin

Houston Mission Control

Thursday 9.11.23

And a day for the boys – Space Center, Houston. We have a bit of a trek out of town this morning on the coach and the roads and usage demonstrate my earlier comments.

The Space Center Houston is huge and now far more than just the Mission Control although that is our first destination as we have been given a timed trip shortly after our arrival on the site. The main displays and visitor area are a ride away from all the cool stuff as the area occupied has grown over the years.

Mission Control has been returned to the layout and equipment with which we are familiar from the Apollo missions in the late 60s / early 70s. The touring party sits in the viewing area overseeing the control room and we are played three recordings of those key events. Apollo 7 landing on the moon followed by the recording of Neil Armstrong walking onto the surface. The third recording is of the first report of Apollo 13 having a problem plus the surrounding story of bringing the participants back safely. Obviously now the visible technology looks hugely dated and one wonders how it would be organised today.

There were rudimentary computers on board the space vehicles and mainframes processing data – but these days when we are conscious of how Formula 1 (for example) has intricate reporting detail on their engines, chassis, wheels and so on all being fed not only to the pit teams but also to their headquarters (which can be half a world away from the race) it is a very different data process that would now be put in place.

As well as the displays in the visitor center itself there are two other major exhibits which also require a ride to the other side of facility – one is a Saturn V rocket launcher – which lies on one side rather than standing erect. The other is a visit to the astronaut training center which is a huge hangar with a huge variety of technical equipment where the potential travellers have to learn how to manage all of the equipment.

Shuttle Carrier and Shuttle

As with Graceland earlier on the holiday those with a particular interest could and probably should spend the whole day here – for the ladies of the tour this held the least interest.

USA – Deep South – 11

9 November 2023 / admin

Union Station departure Board

Wednesday 8.11.23

We are on the move again and our first stop this morning is Union Station where – given the usual generous Great Rail timings – we have a wait for our train to Houston. As before all cases are handed over to porters and loaded aboard the train and we follow separately to our assigned seats.

Union Station probably handles less passengers (and many less services) than Sandhurst station on an average day. So in European eyes it is unaccountably well appointed with a large number of seats, catering facilities and so on. The other travellers are also here in plenty of time – walk up and go is not the way they do it here! The train is scheduled to depart at 09:00 and we leave more or less on time.

Sunset Limited

We leave New Orleans by what seems a slightly twisting route eventually leaving the City over the Huey P Long Bridge with the train then coming to a stand on the raised section on the south side of the Mississippi river – and we are there some considerable time, although later in the day we appear to be back on expected timings. Freight is always more important than passengers in this country of course.

I turn to listening to radio recordings – time to catch up on events in Ambridge amongst other things. To break the day up we book lunch on the late sitting (yes there are two!). The countryside rolls by – generically we are heading just about due west to Houston, Texas on the Sunset Limited which will (eventually) terminate in Los Angeles some 48 hours after the journey commences. Our route passes through Lafayette, Lake Charles and Beaumont amongst others.

Historically this was not a rich area and from a passing train it is hard to establish any definitive conclusions – but it does not reek of prosperity – there are some nicer houses and there are some which are far less attractive – with I suspect a predominance of the latter!

Lunch is excellent and we stay talking at the table as they have cleared up and do not seem bothered about making us go.

Once on the outskirts of Houston we are routed through a freight route and we end up passing the station and backing into it – but that will be to enable it to head off on the remainder of its journey to the West Coast. We arrive a little later than planned due to the Houston circumlocution – which means that eating out tonight is not on.

A quick coach hop to our hotel and with communications re-established (no wifi on trains) we can check in for our not too distant return flight. Dinner is in the hotel tonight and is perhaps one of the lesser meals of the trip. The warm weather has gone and it is raining. Houston is a modern city – at least in the centre. It is, as might be expected, heavily dependent on the car – but outside our hotel there is a modern metro shuttling back and forth. Time (and a wish not to be stuck somewhere distant) will preclude travel on it on Friday morning.

USA – Deep South – 10

8 November 2023 / admin

Charles Street streetcar

Tuesday 7.11.23

Today is a free day as far as the tour operator is concerned but that is not how we see it. There are shops, this is the USA and so it is time to acquire some Levi jeans as outlet shops are always very cheap and so our trips to the USA always include an opportunity to acquire jeans.

We head down to the mall by the river and soon my purchases are completed. Less happily the food outlets are at the very far end of the mall and no-one is doing anything particularly breakfast like. I think we all wanted a bacon butty or something similar even if it is not good for us.

With my shopping needs satisfied (three pairs of Levis – always bought on trips to the USA) I am released and I head for the Streetcars first taking the line along to the terminus at French Market. At the time of our visit the Riverfront service is not running and only the service back from French Market runs to Cemeteries “Canal Street line” is running and so I go to the other end of the line which is mainly a ride along Canal Street. At the end I double back slightly and then take another streetcar to the other northern terminus at the City Park and Museum. It is now mid-afternoon and incredibly warm.

Modern NOLA Streetcar

Returning to Rampart Street I then take the service to Union Station – a location we shall visit tomorrow. The service to Elysian Fields Avenue is not running so I return once again along Canal Street and can then take the historic trams operating to South Claiborne Avenue. However for reasons which were poorly explained the driver of the streetcar insisted that I and others leave the vehicle at St Charles Avenue about 9 stops short of the terminus. She was pretty insistent and it was annoying to then wait a good 10 minutes or so before there was a streetcar to return to the hotel.

This trip on the St Charles Avenue line as it is known was the most interesting as it traversed a very different part of the city – and the oldest in the world opening in 1835 and electrified in 1893. It has operated continuously apart from storm disruption throughout. The other lines at some point closed and subsequently re-opened. St Charles Avenue itself is fascinating with a tree lined avenue and some stately houses on both sides. Plus Universities and restaurants – which are too far in the wrong direction from the hotel for us to experience.

We dine at Mr B’s Bistro tonight – again in the French Quarter – a place which had been spotted on our walking tour yesterday and opposite the Hotel Monteleone where cocktails are taken.

By the way when arriving in a restaurant in the Deep South there is an absolute need to order a cocktail. Obtaining a whole bottle of wine seems to require a member of management being summoned with keys to unlock some remote distant storage to enable a full bottle to be extracted. This takes so long that the ordinary wine drinking punter can die of thirst before the bottle arrives. No wonder people order cocktails.