Holidays and Other Excursions

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Cuba 15.2.20

Iglesia Parroquial Mayor del Espíritu Santo 15-2-20

Iglesia Parroquial Mayor del Espíritu Santo 15-2-20

We are moving on again today visiting Sancti Spiritus which has the distinctive church above and some other attractive buildings. 

Inside Iglesia Parroquial Mayor 15-2-20

Inside Iglesia Parroquial Mayor 15-2-20

We visited the local market as well and it is very different to markets elsewhere in the world with the quantities on display being somewhat limited with far less choice and variety.  There are statues the town around which are interesting and it would appear that there are more than we saw.

Puenta Yayabo Bridge Sancti Spiritu 15-2-20

Puenta Yayabo Bridge Sancti Spiritu 15-2-20

We move onwards to Santa Clara which is an important location in Communist revolutionary history being the location of he Battle of Santa Clara in December 1958.  The Government had sent a supply train of ammunition, weapons and equipment in support of their troops to attempt to hold back the advancing Guevara led revolutionaries.  Using the local tractors from the school of Agronomy the revolutionaries disrupted the tracks leading to the derailment of the train which was promptly captured with the 350 troops becoming prisoners, although allegedly some of them no longer wished to fight other Cubans.  It was essentially a major turning point of the revolution and within days the Government had been overthrown.  It is commemorated by a memorial which is on the site of the original incident.

Tren Blindado Santa Clara 15-2-20

Tren Blindado Santa Clara 15-2-20

it was not clear at the time if these are the original vehicles or ones which were used to recreate the event.  

Bulldozer Santa Clara 15-2-20

Bulldozer Santa Clara 15-2-20

Tractor is a slight understatement if these were the items used to pull up the track – more like a bulldozer!

At the hotel in the evening we enjoy a decent meal but the best story concerns a young lady on her first ever shift.  We ask for a bottle of wine and she has never opened a bottle before.  It also transpires that she is left-handed and opening a bottle with a bottle opener when you are left handed is not obvious.  After a moment or two the good lady wife takes pity on the poor girl and demonstrates the need to use her right hand for this particular task.  We wish her good luck.  The payback is the following evening, she is on duty again and again we order a bottle of wine.  She declines assistance and within moments she has removed the cork and is pouring wine (left handed).  She will go far I am sure.

 

A slight disclaimer, this has been written over 6 years after the journey concerned so is very much based around the photographs taken on the day.

Cuba 14.2.20

 
Manaca-Iznaga Tower Valle de los Ingenios 14-2-20

Manaca-Iznaga Tower Valle de los Ingenios 14-2-20

Having seen how the wealth was spent in Cienfuegos we now move onto discover how it was accumulated by the labour of the inevitable slaves in the sugar plantations in the central area of Cuba.  Symbolic of the control which was exerted is the Manaca-Iznaga Tower from which the overseers could watch large numbers at work in the sugar plantations and ensure that they were indeed working.  It was built in 1750 and the bell is retained separately at the bottom of the tower.

Sugar cane press 14-2-20

Sugar cane press 14-2-20

A key piece of equipment was a sugar cane press.  These were used to crush the sugar cane stalks to extract the sweet juice  prior to processing into sugar.  It is long disused and whilst the growing of sugar cane is no longer as dominant in Cuba as it once was it is still grown and contributes to exports.

Iznaga Station 14-2-20

Iznaga Station 14-2-20

The sugar was historically taken to Trinidad for export via rail and this was the local station.  I have identified that as recently as 2024 the tourist train did run through the valley from Trini which did used to be on the tour itinerary before out 2020 visit but had been removed as at that time it did not run regularly.  I cannot comment on the situation in 2026.  

Valle de los Ingenios 14-2-20

Valle de los Ingenios 14-2-20

There were some wonderful views over the countryside.

 

Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco de Asís, Trinidad 14-2-20

Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco de Asís, Trinidad 14-2-20

Our trip today ends in Trinidad – which is in Cuba and not elsewhere.  The above church is in Plaza Mayor but is now a museum.

Church of the Holy Tirinity Trinidad 14-2-20

Church of the Holy Tirinity Trinidad 14-2-20

However it would seem that my camera was over exposing everything it recorded at this point.  Entirely my fault.

 

A slight disclaimer, this has been written over 6 years after the journey concerned so is very much based around the photographs taken on the day.

Cuba 13.2.20

Palacio de Gobierno de Cienfuegos 13-2-20

Palacio de Gobierno de Cienfuegos 13-2-20

We have headed east and south from Havana this morning to Cienfuegos which is on the southern coast of Cuba.  Since 2005 the Urban Historic Centre of Cienfuegos  has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List, as the best extant example of early 19th century Spanish Enlightenment influence on urban planning.

Tomás Terry Theatre Cienfuegos 13-2-20

Tomás Terry Theatre Cienfuegos 13-2-20

Cienfuegos has clearly experienced wealth in the past with the buildings and this magnificent theatre – Tomás Terry Theatre.  No relation to the late British comedian – he was a wealthy 19th Century Venezuelan-Cuban industrialist  Irish stock on his father’s side deriving his wealth initially from inevitably slavery and then sugar and banking leading to a claim that in 1886 at the time of his death he was the richest man in Cuba.  The first performance in the theatre took place in 1890 so he did not live to see it.

Palacio de Valle Cienfuegos 13-2-20

Palacio de Valle Cienfuegos 13-2-20

Built in 1917 the Palacio de Valle is further evidence of the wealth of the local merchants – in this case Aciscio del Valle Blanco and this is now a National Monument functioning as a hotel and restaurant.

Waterfront Cienfuegos 13-2-20

Waterfront Cienfuegos 13-2-20

We board a boat for effectively a trip around the Bahia de Cienfuegos during which we can see the local waterfront properties some of which are quite impressive.   In the far distance the location of the Planta Nuclear de Juraguá is indicated – a Russian funded nuclear power station which produces a significant proportion of the island’s electricity.

This trip remains in the memory for reasons other than the sights.  We were the first group to board and naturally we occupied seats along the rails.  A second party joined the boat and there was much shuffling and juggling as they sought to insert themselves within the existing participants.  It transpired that they were of a group of Jewish people and the impression they gave of themselves was not entirely positive.  However such is life.

 

A slight disclaimer, this has been written over 6 years after the journey concerned so is very much based around the photographs taken on the day.

Cuba 12.2.20

Havana 12-2-20Havana 12-2-20

Yesterday evening we returned to Havana before our visit to the centre of the island but there is time to visit some local sights missed during our earlier stay in the City.  Plus the weather is slowly improving.  One of the expected sights in Havana of course are the cars which can be seen as we progress.

 

Cars Havana 12-2-20

Cars Havana 12-2-20

We also partook with a trip around the town in one of these beauties – the pink one if I remember correctly.  Majestic and with the weather working with us for a change.

Barrio Chino Havana 12-2-20

Barrio Chino Havana 12-2-20

In most major ports in the world there is evidence that Chinese sailors have been there – Chinatown in Central London, San Francisco has similar and even Havana has evidence with the Barrio China.  And finally clear blue sky,

Bell Tower and Statue Havana 12-2-20

Bell Tower and Statue Havana 12-2-20

The biggest mystery of all is that I have been had some difficulty identifying the above but have finally decided it must be the Statue of Virgin Mary at Nuestra Senora del Carmen Church although no other photographs show other buildings quite so close as mine does.  A trick of using a telephoto lens I guess.

Jackie and John Lennon Havana 12-2-20

Jackie and John Lennon Havana 12-2-20

Much easier to identify is John Lennon (and Jackie) in John Lennon Square.  Fidel Castro considered the musician to be a revolutionary anti-war hero rather than a symbol of western decadence unveiling the statue in 2000.  It is adjacent to the Yellow Submarine Café which we visited,

Yellow Submarine Cafe 12-2-20

Yellow Submarine Cafe 12-2-20

Bringing the music up to date in the evening we visited the Buena Vista Social Club.

Buena Vista Social Club 12-2-20

Buena Vista Social Club 12-2-20

Obviously the lyrics were incomprehensible but somehow it seemed certain that the female singers were decrying the male of the species whilst the latter were expressing the undying love for the former.  Unlike Fado it did not seem quite so easy to transcend the language barrier, however we have been and we have experienced it in their home surroundings.

 

A slight disclaimer, this has been written over 6 years after the journey concerned so is very much based around the photographs taken on the day.

Cuba 11.2.20

 
Turkeys Cuba 11-2-20

Turkeys Cuba 11-2-20

The itinerary today is to take a first look at the tobacco industry – at source – with a  tobacco farm.  Around the edge of the tobacco fields there are a number of turkeys looking for sustenance and the owner has a collection of other animals in a small petting zoo.

Tobacco in the wild 11-2-20

Tobacco in the wild 11-2-20

Tobacco has long been a major industry and clearly remained important at the time of our visit despite the constant preaching against smoking in most places.   The plants grow quickly and reach maturity for harvesting in around three months – so more than one crop a year.  The tobacco is dried and fermented in bohio where the leaves typically are left for three months before being sprayed to impart some sweetness and then allowed to remain for a further three months to ensure the right flavour is achieved.  

Bohio tobacco drying 11-2-20

Bohio tobacco drying 11-2-20

By this stage I think we have all been infused with the smell of tobacco.  They did demonstrate how to roll a cigar but I have to report that the photographs are poor due to the light levels.

Soroa Orchid Gardens 11-2-20

Soroa Orchid Gardens 11-2-20

We move onto the Soroa Orchid Garden which we wander around before reaching the waterfall which enabled me to identify just where we were through a reverse search as all memory of the orchid garden had deserted me!

Soroa Waterfall 11-2-20

Soroa Waterfall 11-2-20

I am also convinced that first thing this morning we visited a tobacco factory in Vinales itself – but I do not seem to have any photographic record of this and it is possible that photography was not permitted within the factory itself.

 

A slight disclaimer, this has been written over 6 years after the journey concerned so is very much based around the photographs taken on the day.

Cuba 10.2.20

Cuba Scenery 10-2-20

Cuba Scenery 10-2-20

We remain in the west of the island.  The hotel we stayed in had some wonderful views and also a rather nice area in which to sit looking out over the view – with the countryside stretching into the distance.

Keep it Moovin' 10-2-20

Keep it Moovin’ 10-2-20

Looking just a little out of place at the time was the bullock cart but I wonder how many of these have been resurrected in more recent times to provide transport for countryside residents?

Caves Cueva del Indio 10-2-20

Caves Cueva del Indio 10-2-20

I have visited caves in many places and I cannot get decent photographs no matter how I try.  Entering the caves here requires navigating a lot of steps up (outside) and then down (inside).  Leaving the cave system is by boat which is a lot easier but dark – hence no photographs.

Prehistoric Mural 10--2-20

Prehistoric Mural 10–2-20

Whilst known as the prehistoric mural, that relates to the subject matter as it was painted by Leovigildo González Morillo commencing in 1961.  It adorns a cliff face in the area and looks more impressive than my photo can convey I fear.  We stay in the same hotel overnight as we have further visits to make in the Vinales area.

 

A slight disclaimer, this has been written over 6 years after the journey concerned so is very much based around the photographs taken on the day.

Cuba 9.2.20

 
Chicken Vinales 9-2-20

Chicken Vinales 9-2-20

Vinales Area

We leave Havana and head west this morning to visit the UNESCO World Heritage area of Vinales which was designated in 1990 to ensure preservation of the typical Cuban housing and local arts and crafts, alongside the landscape.  Looking at my photographs I seem to have spent a lot of time trying to get a decent chicken picture.  I fear I failed completely.  There were however chicken everywhere as I remember.

Washday VInales 9-2-20

Village Washday 9-2-20

I am not sure if every day is wash day but we were certainly there on a day when there seemed to be a lot of washing being dried – but given the temperature that does not seem unreasonable – all the buildings seemed to be adorned at least partially with such items!

Vinales View 9-2-20

 View Western Cuba 9-2-20

Lunch was taken above the village and was an uphill walk.  The view certainly looked more impressive than my photograph, however this is down into the valley and protected scenic area.

Cafetal Buenvista Coffee Farm ruins 9-2-20

Cafetal Buenvista Coffee Farm ruins 9-2-20

Cafetal Buenavista Coffee Farm

The coffee farm dates back to 1801 commenced by French refugees from Haiti.  The production of coffee has much reduced in Cuba – with many of the plantations failing during the 2007/8 economic difficulties and then the imposition of US trade restrictions.  At the time of our visit the site was supported by visitors but what might have happened since is unknown.

Cafetal Buenavista Coffee Grinding 9-2-20

Cafetal Buenavista Coffee Grinding 9-2-20

Despite what Bing tried to tell me this is NOT a water pump – it has been restored and it was used to grind the coffee beans.

 

Vultures 9-2-20

Vultures 9-2-20

Our presence also managed to disturb some of the local wildlife as we could see it circling above.

Turkey Vulture 9-2-20

Turkey Vulture 9-2-20

Earlier in the day I did manage to capture some wildlife in a tree.  According to Bing this is a Turkey Vulture from its distinctive red cap to its head.  

 

A slight disclaimer, this has been written over 6 years after the journey concerned so is very much based around the photographs taken on the day.

Cuba 8.2.20

Cuba Gardens 8-2-20

Cuba Gardens 8-2-20

National Botanical Garden of Cuba

Our first visit this morning is to the extensive National Botanical Garden of Cuba which is about 15 miles south of Havana so easy enough to reach.  

Cacti Cuba 8-2-20

Cacti Cuba 8-2-20

The weather has hardly improved over yesterday, although it is at least dry for the visit which is nice.  Amongst the other photos I seem to have a lot of pictures of cacti of all descriptions.

More Garden Cuba 8-2-20

More Garden Cuba 8-2-20

We are rather out of season for some of the more colourful displays it seems but these places are always interesting to wander around.  

Hemingway House 8-2-20

Hemingway House 8-2-20

Hemingway’s House

Our next destination today is Finca Vigia where Ernest Hemmingway lived from 1939 to 1960.  For the first part of this he was with Martha Gelhorn as they both had been involved in covering the Spanish Civil War and this is where his book of the war – For Whom the Bell Tolls – was written.  In 1960 the revolution inevitably led to many changes in the country.  Hemingway was initially close to the new government  but he left the island before his property was expropriated by the new Government.  He never returned before his death in 1961.  

Hemingway's writing desk 8-2-20

Hemingway’s writing desk 8-2-20

At the time of our visit it appeared to be responsibly maintained and was being visited by large numbers, although without a tourist industry it may well have deteriorated.

Internal Hemingway House 8-2-20

Internal Hemingway House 8-2-20

Cojimar

Our final stop today is the fishing village of Cojimar where Hemingway lived initially before buy the house we have just visited  and it is where he kept his fishing boat.  The sea front is dominated by a Spanish built fort (1649).

Cojimar Cuba 8-2-20

Cojimar Cuba 8-2-20

I would like to think that for most of his time in Cuba Hemingway was a happy man – obviously he was getting older but no doubt able to enjoy a few libations and a lot of fishing.

 

A slight disclaimer, this has been written over 6 years after the journey concerned so is very much based around the photographs taken on the day.

Cuba 7.2.20

Havana 7.2.20
Havana 7.2.20

It is Friday and we are in Cuba, somewhere we had hoped to visit and at the time of the trip it was relatively easy to visit and there were none of the limitations which have subsequently appeared.  We flew out the previous day and having reached the hotel we merely wanted to try and get some proper sleep.

Havana is having a grey and wet day – little tropical sunshine here – but that is not our real reason for visiting – it is the architecture and some of the history.

Havana architecture 7.2.20
Havana architecture 7.2.20

We get to see the old and new side by side, the buildings which are falling apart and awaiting attention as well as those in good order.  2020 marked almost a high point in the Cuban economy and although we are unlikely to return subsequent events have driven the economy near collapse with Trump engineering regime change in Venezuela on which Cuba was dependent for oil supplies – so I doubt if it is as tidy these days.  Limited press reports are that there is virtually no fuel for vehicles and power cuts are regularly experienced.

Statues Havana 7.2.20
Statues Havana 7.2.20

Like many other places public art is respected and there are obviously newish statues as well as older ones around the city.

 

A slight disclaimer, this has been written about 6 years after the journey concerned so is very much based around the photographs taken on the day.

Morocco 18.11.19

Modern aerial 18.11.19

Modern aerial 18.11.19

The last day of the group holiday is a tour of Essaouira which I will admit I struggle both to say and spell!  The oddest sight was possibly the heavily disguised communications tower (above).  I am not sure what it is intended to achieve.

Essaouira 18.11.19

Essaouira 18.11.19

The town is principally a fishing port and the harbour still has a very large number of boats bringing in the catch which is then readily available in the local market.

Fish Essaouira 18.11.19

Fish Essaouira 18.11.19

Inevitably being a port fortifications were needed

Essaouira Fort 18.11.19

Essaouira Fort 18.11.19

You can see from the pictures that it was a nice day.  We were looking forward to staying on a few more days after the rest of the tour party departed to enable a few quiet days of relaxation in the sunshine.  Somehow the authorities had other idea and we ensured more or less constant rain throughout the extension.  Most disappointing.  I liked the town – but would have preferred better weather.

It seemed a long way through near desert to return to Marrakech to catch the plane taking about three hours or so.  Then once at the airport our flight is subjected to additional checks which do not apply to other travellers plus they do not do the entire flight – so if you had turned up at the last minute you would not have been tested.  No-one could actually explain why it was necessary or what it was designed to achieve so utterly pointless.

We returned home on 22 November.

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