Month: September 2020

Cumbria 29.9.20

30 September 2020 / admin

Lowther Castle 29.9.20

Having had a day of trains and road passes when I planned this today was intended to be no great drive. All will become clear.

Not that far from where we are staying is Lowther Castle – and from the angle above it may not be immediately obvious that it is a ruined castle. It was finished in 1685 but was closed by the owner in 1935, the contents were sold in 1947 and the roof removed in 1957. Hugh Lowther, the 5th Earl of Lonsdale, had no children and lived a fairly extravagant life selling off other properties to fund it.

The 6th Earl inherited on the death of Hugh in 1944 and this led to the forced sale mentioned of the contents. The next inheritor was faced with £25M in death duties which led to the removal of the roof and a concentration on the farming aspects of the Estate. In recent years a decision has been taken to rewild much of the estate.

Inside Lowther Castle 29.9.20The house opened to public visits following some restoration in 2011 – at a cost of £9m on conversation. That work continues and it is a fascinating site with much of interest in the gardens.

Rose Garden 29.9.20

There are various summerhouses, a Japanese Garden and a rose garden which has a huge number of roses – September is not a good time for seeing this but the area covered is hard to believe.

The Lost Castle 29.9.20

Deep in the Castle Grounds there is the largest wooden playground in the Country in the form of The Lost Castle which was added in 2016. it is a hand built playground and the timber was sourced from within 11 miles – and whilst not intended for adults it is an amazing walk.

Lunch today is at the Punchbowl Inn. And here is where my careful plans fell apart. It seems that there are two Punchbowl Inns. The famous one (and the one where we are booked for lunch is at Crosthwaite near Kendal. There is also one in Askham which is actually close to Lowther Hall. So when doing final checks I realise that we have to go something like 42 miles each way – much of it motorway. I was very grateful when my wife kindly offered to do some driving today.

Cumbria 28.9.20

29 September 2020 / admin

Northern Rock R&ER 28.9.20

There are other attractions in the Lake District – today we head along the main road through the Northern end of the Lakes – the hills are beautifully lit making it a very pleasant drive. Our first destination is Ravenglass as we shall be travelling on the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway. However the station at the far end of the line is Dalegarth (not Eskdale).

The railway opened in 1875 and was the first narrow gauge public railway carrying passengers from 1876. Formally it became preserved in 1959 when a preservation society took ownership part funded by the Wakefield family, local landowners who remain involved). The line runs for seven miles and the journey takes 40 minutes.

Northern Rock in action 28.9.20

Northern Rock provided the motive power. Northern Rock was built in 1976 a 2-6-2 and is painted in Highland Railway livery (apparently known as Muscat Green). It is the newest of the locomotives operating on the railway.

To return to our base means taking to the hills again and this time we visit the Hardknott and Wrynose Passes. Some years ago I took a Previa over this route – in excellent weather and today it is slightly damp for the TT but it is a lot easier with a smaller vehicle. Given the way the roads run it is impossible to do one without the other but I find Hardknott harder – there are some very interesting twists and turns on the climb. As I am concentrating on the opportunity to enjoy the scenery is a little limited. However apparently it is the last time Jackie is going over these two passes.

In the evening we go to 1863 a restaurant in Pooley Bridge which is at the northern end of Ullswater. Parking was a little difficult for some reason and sometimes when things get disjointed by a little thing like parking then it is more difficult to concentrate on the meal. As I recall this was the least liked dining destination – but others may feel completely different – perhaps we were tired after the earlier exertions.

Cumbria 27.9.20

28 September 2020 / admin

Aira Waterfall Ullswater 27.9.20

There are (of course) more reasons for visiting the Lake District apart from the excellent food which is available. So today we seek to combine some of these. Our first destination is the Aira Waterfall on the edge of Ullswater. We wander up and over the bridge and back down the other side – not the sunniest day possible.

The Struggle 27.9.20 Copyright J Whitbread

One of my personal reasons for visiting the area is to take the TT over some of the “challenging” passes which exist. So heading south from Ullswater we head up and over the Kirkstone Pass – a gradient of 1 in 4 reaching an altitude of 1489ft. It is a major A road (unlike some of the other passes we will be seeing) and is therefore relatively easy. Heading towards our intended destination we descend into Ambleside using the “Struggle”. In all honesty doing it all southbound is probably too easy – but it happens to fit our journey today. This is definitely one of the less scary passes to cover.

Drunken Duck Menu 27.9.20 Copyright J Whitbread

Our dining destination is not quite as fancy as yesterday as we are heading to the Drunken Duck at Barngates, Ambleside. As with most of dining destinations this can be recommended – after the driving this morning a decent lunch is most welcome. Being a Sunday we naturally have the Sunday roast.

And once back at the lodge there is a nice hot tub to use.

Cumbria 26.9.20

27 September 2020 / admin

Castlerigg Stone Circle 26.9.20

Given the time of year to find that it is a little grey and potentially damp this morning is no surprise. However our first visit this morning is Castlerigg Stone Circle which Wikipedia reports as having been erected in about 3200BC with around 40 stones making the circle. The reasons for construction and subsequent uses are unknown but given the size of the boulders no doubt a lot of manual labour was involved.

The stones were scheduled under an Act of 1882 and the site was the first to have a formal agreement between landowner and the State who became responsible for the stones but not the land and that duty has since been passed to English Heritage as the appropriate authority.

Our route is then south along the western edge of Thirlmere, rather than the main road with our destination being Forest Side Hotel in Grasmere where we enjoy an excellent lunch. We must return here one day.

Taster Forest Side 26.9.20 Copyright J M Whitbread

Grasmere is famous for many things including gingerbread so Jackie joins a not short queue (despite the rain). We are later able to decide that neither of us is actually that keen on gingerbread.

Cumbria 25.9.20

26 September 2020 / admin

Lodge Penrith 25.9.20 copyright J Whitbread

Late 2020 and most of the year has been lost to covid. At the moment the restrictions are limited and we have a week booked (Friday to Friday) at hot tub equipped caravan near Penrith with the intention of spending the week sampling some of the culinary and physical delights of the Lake District. Penrith is a little further from the area we usually visit – but we have never really been to the Northern end of the Lakes so this will be a little different.

The lodge is not available until 4pm and with past experience of the M6 we set off in plenty of time – indeed for once the traffic is not as difficult as it might have been – although I rather think we used the M6 Toll road to avoid some of the worst of the traffic which can occur.

So it is hardly a surprise when we arrive at the check in point (in the pub) well over an hour ahead of the magic opening time. Obviously in such circumstances we all hope for early access – but inevitably with the extra cleaning now mandated it is only a few minutes early that we are allowed to roll in.

View from Lodge 25.9.20 Copyright J Whitbread

This is a very nice upmarket establishment with peacocks wandering around between the lodges.

In the evening we dined at Allium at Askham Hall. The food was excellent but the sommelier seemed to think that trying to get Jackie to drink a reisling wine was a good idea and thereafter it did not go so well. There are things she does not like and that is one of them as she complains they all smell of petrol. As I am driving I am not drinking very much!