Month: August 2019

Rhine 5.8.19

6 August 2019 / admin

TGV Belfort-Montbeliarde 5.8.19

We are moored in Basel and we have received disembarkation instructions. Given that we physically set foot on Swiss land as we leave the boat I can claim to have visited the country! (On one of my earlier “visits” we landed at the airport but immediately departed via the “French” side). We are transported by taxi across the border to Belfort-Montbeliarde from where we take a TGV service to Paris – eventually arriving in Paris at Gare de Lyon.

A taxi is needed to reach Gare du Nord – simply because with cases and changing trains is just not that simple. As ever with Eurostar things do not seem to be running smoothly and the passenger area becomes seriously crowded and there is very little information as to what is happening. Every interaction with Eurostar seems to demonstrate a complete inability to want passengers or to provide a proper service. Compared with my first visit to France at least we do not seem to be endlessly crossing northern France. Eventually however we are home.

One aspect which has stayed with us although not mentioned earlier is that a couple of the early evenings when we were passing the huge industrial complexes – I think in particular in parts of the Netherlands and then again passing possibly Krefeld-Uerdingen or Leverkusen with the Bayer factories we can see how much manufacturing those areas have retained which the UK has lost and how the economies of scale favour such factories – they just seem to stretch unending alongside the river as we progressed.

We would both like to try and do the Alsace wine route at some point – but the possibility seems unlikely as in general Jackie tends not to like German wines. Maybe one day.

Rhine 4.8.19

5 August 2019 / admin

Vogtsbauernhof 4.8.19

We are approaching the end of our cruise. Yesterday we visited France, albeit briefly but today we stay on the German side of the Rhine visiting the Black Forest, although there did not seem to be any gateaux in the wild. We are visiting the Black Forest Open Air Museum where they have preserved various buildings to represent farming in the area in the 16th and 17th centuries.

The centrepiece is the Vogtsbauernhof above which dates from 1612. Unlike the other buildings this one stands on its original site and the museum has been developed around it.

Basket Weaving 4.8.19

Internally there are scenes reflecting the lives of the residents and the various jobs and skills which were undertaken as there was a need to be self-sufficient. Looking at the pictures I think the residential depictions come from a much later period than 1612 eg the machine in the picture above – but then it is unlikely that much really lasts 400 years.

Hemp Mill 4.8.19

There is a mill (hemp) which dates from 1609 (above) and a sawmill (1673) below plus many other buildings which have been gathered here.

Sawmill 4.8.19

Back on board in the afternoon there is a galley tour which allows us to show our appreciation for the team who have been looking after us for the last two weeks and delivering decent food during our travels. Our thanks to them.

Rhine 3.8.19

4 August 2019 / admin

Gertwiller 3.8.19

We are moored in Kehl this morning which is across the river from Strasbourg. As the Rhine skirts around Lauterbourg it also becomes the French – German border. The Alsace has been ruled by both France and Germany at various times. In 1870 Germany unified with Bismarck annexing most of the territory. It was ceded back to France under the Treaty of Versailles. It was re-occupied by Germany in 1940 and residents were subject to German conscription. It returned to French control in 1945 but in recognition of history there remains some elements of local law.

Our interest is far from political – we are here for a tour through some of the Alsace villages and to taste some local wines. We establish that wine tours are obviously common in the area with signs directing travellers along a formal wine tour which stretches for 170km north to south through Alsace.

Obernai 3.8.19

However as these photos and others show it is an attractive region with its own style of architecture.

Plus being largely German wines we are tasting which tend not to be Jackie’s taste I often get double portions.

This evening the stunning evening entertainment is the playing of cow bells. Along with the Kletzmer band this probably led to an early trip to bed.

Rhine 2.8.19

3 August 2019 / admin

Heidelberg Castle 2.8.19

There are two main parts of the day again today. This morning we visit Heidelberg and the castle is the prime location. The castle suffered much demolition in the 17th and 18th centuries and has only been partially reconstructed. Lightning strikes in 1537 and then again in 1764 with intervening wars and fires led to Mark Twain recording it as a ruin in 1880. Reconstruction was between 1897 and 1900.

Great Heidelberg Tun 2.8.19

The Great Heidelberg Tun lives within the cellars of the Castle. It was constructed in 1751 and currently holds 219000 litres. The construction requires 130 oak trees but no longer sees use as a wine barrel – it is simply a tourist attraction with the construction above being a dance area. Even Mark Twain refers to it as being empty on his visit in 1880.

So no wine tasting today.

Heidelberg Funicular 2.8.19

Access to the Castle requires use of a funicular so at least there is a small element of rail travel today. This is the lower cable car – there is apparently a further conveyance to the King’s Seat but I have no record that we made use of that.

Rastatt Palace 2.8.19

This evening we visit another location – Rastatt Palace. Instead of being entertained on board we are this evening attending a concern in the above.

Concert Room 2.8.19

We have an opportunity to see inside the palace and before anyone took a seat I was able to grab a shot of the magnificent concert room. The palace was constructed for Louis William of Baden-Baden between 1700 and 1707, his previous residence having been destroyed by French troops. It is the oldest Baroque residence in the Upper Rhine area and was based to an extent on the Palace of Versailles. The concert was held in what is known as the Prunksaal and I have not really captured the elegance of the room.

Rhine 1.8.19

2 August 2019 / admin

Stolzenfels Castle 1.8.19

A day of two halves – well many of them are but this morning was one of the anticipated highlights as we have rejoined the Rhine after our diversion along the Moselle and we are tripping our way through the Rhine Gorge and it is simply a procession of castles overlooking the river at each turn as we progress.

Marksburg Castle 1.8.19

On both sides of the river there is a road and a railway line matching the curves and so not only are there castles to spot but also a variety of rail services – in this case freight is on the move.

Rail Service 1.8.19

Back to Castles – but I have a lot more rail photos.

Castle of Rheinfels 1.8.19

The second half of the day comes after we moor at Rudesheim and once in the town we are taken to Siegfried’s Musikkabinett.

Pianola Rudesheim Museum 1.8.19

There are a huge number of musical delights kept and maintained here following restoration – this is just a small selection.

Musical Machine Rudesheim Museum 1.8.19

The Museum now claims to house more than 400 self-playing musical instruments – although on the tour they can only demonstrate a limited selection. Siegfried Wendel was no doubt bored on his honeymoon visiting an open air museum near Los Angeles which contained a number of player pianos and automatic instruments. By October 1969 he had opened the first German Museum – initially in Hochheim am Main but he had long hoped to bring it to Rudesheim as it had strong tourist levels even then. The move came in 1973 and has now been passed onto subsequent generations with around 130,000 visitors per annum.

In the evenings on board there is usually some entertainment. Tonight it is the Kletzmer Band which it is fair to say is probably not my wife’s favourite musical form – so an early exit to bed was taken.

Rhine Cruise 31.7.19

1 August 2019 / admin

Gelle Fra Memorial Luxembourg 31.7.19

From our berth at Bernkastel it is a relatively short coach ride into a completely new country as head off to visit Luxembourg. We open with the Gelle Fra (Golden Woman) Memorial which is dedicated to the thousands of Luxembourgers who served with the Allied Powers in both World Wars and in the Korean War and volunteers with the International Brigade in the Spanish Civil War, although the monument was unveiled in 1923.

Dodgy Sausages 31.7.19

My wife has a distinct aversion to sausages and so I felt that a representation of the local food market should be recorded as being the closest I managed to get to strange foodstuffs during this excursion.

Grand Ducal Palace Luxembourg 31.7.19

We are in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg which it has been since March 1815 although until 1890 it was in personal union with the United Kingdom of the Netherlands. It is the only sovereign Grand Duchy, although since 2008 new laws no longer require the Grand Duke’s approval – he had refused to approve a law on euthanasia – merely that he promulgates them. The Palace was originally the City Hall from 1572 until 1795 and from 1817 was headquarters of the Luxembourg Government as it became the residence of the governor and from 1890 became the residence of the Grand Duke and family. It has been extensively modernised internally in the 1990s.

Dipso Luxembourg 31.7.19

Sometimes one sees an establishment whilst on a walking tour and you wish that perhaps you had the time to sit down and indulge. Sadly not today.

Luxembourg Walls 31.7.19

Luxembourg is small – the country has a total population under 700,000 and the City holds around 140,000 of them. The IMF records that it has the highest GDP per capita – $140,310 in 2024. Over 70% of the capital’s residents are foreigners largely working within the banking centres based here, or in connection with European Union Court of Justice and other significant European administrative offices. It is regarded highly for personal safety.

In 2020 after our visit all buses, trams and rail services became free for standard travel, first class remains chargeable. This has been done for the environment.