Leaning Tower Venice 27.12.24
This morning we are off to Venice by train from Pesicheria del Garda to Venice. The train is a little late although the reasons are announced we are not too bothered. In Venice from the station we have a motor boat ride around to St Mark’s Square – repeating our visit from about 30 years ago. As it is a motor boat it is not permitted down the Grand Canal so we wander around another route. This morning we have a guided tour which walks us around some of the back canals which we did not visit last time and gives us an opportunity to see a little more of the city and be told of some of the history.
Our guide explains how the water system used to work with the squares having drains for rain water which then filter through the sand underneath to gather at the bottom of wells in each small square with each of the squares having one or two wells. In the base stone of each well there is a small dip to act as a drinking bowl for domestic animals which can be easily refilled from the well. This system is no longer used with all housing now connected to a mains system but this provided local water for many centuries.
We are taken through the former Greek area and visit the Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci which is a Greek Orthodox church. In view of its history which has an ornate interior, although photographs are not permitted within. Externally there is a leaning tower – providing you are looking from the right direction.
Gondolier 27.12.24
Our guide also explains that the famous gondolas are not symmetrical. The owner stands on one side of the boat and consequently were it to be the same on both sides they would not easily be able to proceed in a straight line. So the gondola is designed to counter the weight of the owner and is therefore shaped to offset his weight. The guide implies that the gondoliers therefore have to maintain their weight quite tightly until the gondola is replaced although I suspect that there is a tolerance of 10% or so. And the work keeps them fit I suppose.
We eventually return to St Mark’s Square where the tour ends. I had noted that down one of the streets there was a confluence of small restaurants and as before we only need something light – however the one we choose turned out not to be a good choice and lunch is disappointing. On our previous visit to Venice we did go to Harry’s bar and even that was disappointing – so our views of Venice have not really changed. Or we are just poor at choosing restaurants! We decamp to take a coffee along the main front and to watch people pass by before gathering to take a boat back to the rail station and return to Bardolino. Time to pack as tomorrow we move on.
There seems to be a real mix of operators into Venice with Italo seeming to have quite a few trains around – the local Open Access operator. It strikes me that perhaps the route simply cannot cope with the additional trains so everything runs late. I just do not understand why people should be allowed to make money using state assets – if the state owns something it should be entitled to all the commercial returns which are generated.
The official description for the day:
This morning is yet another highlight of our festive holiday. After breakfast we take a train to the magical floating city of Venice.
On arrival we enjoy a private boat transfer that takes us straight to the heart of Venice, St Mark’s Square, for a guided walking tour of Venice’s sumptuous attractions, including the Doge’s Palace, the Bridge of Sighs, and the Rialto Bridge.
With some free time after our tour, we could take a traditional gondola ride through the winding network of canals or catch a water taxi to the island of Murano, famed for its age-old glass-blowing techniques.
However, we may choose to simply walk beside the enchanting waterways, over tiny arched bridges and past Venetian palaces, soaking up the unique atmosphere of this timeless city.
We could also warm up in a cosy café overlooking St Mark’s Square, or along one of the streets which radiate out from here, with a cup of delicious cioccolata calda.