Travels with my Wife

Crumlin Road Gaol 18.9.24

19 September 2024 / admin

Crumlin Road Gaol Tunnel

This morning we are going down – to the Crumlin Road Gaol – later replaced by the Maze as the main prison – but originating again in Victorian times for the housing of law breakers. So the early years are told as well as the later ones.

We are so early I am not sure it is even open when we arrive! Running to time this morning in contrast to yesterday but we note that the two miscreants are not present some of us would have ensured they were incarcerated!

There is a small introduction and a video and then the first major item is the tunnel which was built under the adjacent road to enable prisoners to be taken directly into the courts and return them to the jail once convicted. The tunnel is allegedly haunted although we saw no sign of a presence. Unlike the jail buildings which have been maintained the courts are in a terrible state and there have been several plans for them to become a hotel but so far there is no evidence of any work being underway.

C Wing

There was a central admin block on the road behind which there was a semi-circular area from which fanned out four wings and C wing has had the cells fitted out to tell the stories of those committed at various times of the prison’s history – with possibly more weight being given to the original Victorian era through the troubles.

At the end of the block there is cell used for those before hanging and then the hanging room itself. Only 17 prisoners were hanged over the life of the prison so it was not a regular event of any form.

Jackie is particularly struck by reference to the Pierrepoints, the family where various members were the official British executioners. There are photographs of various family members who were involved in the hangings.

Westland helicopter

We do not return on the main coach but decide to take the Hop on Hop off bus for a circular tour of the City – this repeats the trip we took on Monday morning – but by choosing the other side of the coach we are able to get pictures of some of the other murals which was not possible earlier in the week. It does not quite visit all of them – but we do manage to get another selection of pictures.

Samson and Goliath

Dominating the Belfast skyline and a reference point for every television series set in the area are the twin cranes of Samson and Goliath which cannot be missed when looking around and so cannot be omitted from this record of our visit.

Dinner tonight is even closer to the hotel – The Muddlers Club – a Michelin star restaurant which has been delivering excellent meals for around 10 years. Whilst last night was tonight just had that star touch with better (well richer) sauces and another fine piece of beef.

Our return journey is not until late on Thursday so we have time for a lunch before we return and settle on Six by Nico – a small chain which changes their menu every month or so – this month is a Japanese based meal and it was excellent.

The return journey is marginally delayed by a late inward flight. We find from fellow travellers that there have been various messages during the day and the flight number has been changed – but we are only a little late once we reach the ground – and I find the two missing luggage belts at T5 – belts 1 and 2 are for domestic flights and they are in a separate hall from the main international arrivals – the last time we came through I noted the belt numbers started at 3 and wondered why that might be – and now I know.

Giant’s Causeway 17.9.24

18 September 2024 / admin

Giant’s Causeway

A full Ulster fry this morning – black and white puddings – to get the day off to a powerful start, well done Ramada.

We are heading up the northern coast this morning to visit the Giant’s Causeway – allegedly a path for the giants between Ireland and Scotland. On arrival we are advised we cannot have the full experience today and I had the thought it was closed – but no – the guide was simply saying that the weather – just about dry but heavily overcast – was a far from typical day as we should normally enjoy rain and winds for the full experience.

The visitor centre is on the top of the hill along way up from the shore but we are blessed with two battery powered buses running up and down the main route between the two points. As we are National Trust members there is no fare – non-members are charged a pound each way. The walk down is probably about 20 minutes and somewhat more coming up.

Although it might not be raining the stones are obviously uneven and can be slippery so care needs to be taken. I decide that I can manage it – and manage to get onto them – but then suddenly find I am falling and hit my back heavily on a stone. More winded than anything so stay still when a kind gentleman offers assistance and I can remove camera and backpack and slowly right myself. And my back is painful! Probably have a nice bruise.

Giant’s Causeway

Once upright I rove around the drier stones taking numerous photographs and hopefully one or two of them will be worthwhile – including the sea breaking on the further stones.

Our journey today is disrupted as two of the party are nearly 30 minutes late to rejoin the coach for the return journey – which cuts the time available and is completely disrespectful of the tour team and the other passengers. We had returned to the top and consumed a tasty sausage roll and still made the coach before the appointed time – so you can only wonder what they were doing.

However it did provide time to inspect this rather fine example of a Victorian post box.

Victoria Post Box

Our return journey is via the coast road and we have the opportunity of seeing a number of small villages and some minor remnants of some industrial railway lines used for transporting limestone from various quarries to waiting ships – another industry which has vanished.

Four Swans Ballycastle

I must admit that the countryside is devoid of much evidence of disruption and looks like it is dedicated to high quality dairy farming with cows and sheep everywhere. It is attractive rolling countryside and the little towns around the various bays each seem to have a sandy beach and attractive outlook. We are unable to visit the rope bridge (it was never on the published list – but might have been possible with a little more time). There is time for some refreshment in Ballycastle where I manage to consume some Guinness and admire the Four Swans.

When we reach Larne which is now the ferry port and I can see a lighthouse in the sea – but it is too close to be on the Scottish coast which we have seen in the very far murky distance earlier – possibly it is the East Maidens lighthouse. We head back past Carrickfergus into Belfast more or less on time, despite the earlier delay.

Dinner this evening is in the Great Room which is within the Merchant Hotel, allegedly the most expensive hotel in town. This was originally the banking hall for the Ulster Bank and the room has been beautifully restored a few years ago. The quality of the food matches those of the surroundings and we enjoy an excellent meal. I am particularly taken by the desert combining cherry and goat’s cheese – the latter cutting through the sweetness of the former, plus too much chocolate.

An inspection in the mirror shows no bruise on my back – just a continuing pain. I shall hope it recovers soon.

Belfast 16.9.24

17 September 2024 / admin

Stormont

This should be day 2 of our holiday in Belfast waking in our hotel room followed by a full Irish. However air traffic control said no to our flight yesterday and so we left home at 4 am. We are soon through security and depart on time.

At Belfast City Airport we are met by the local Newmarket representative and we are soon at the hotel and can check in, lose our cases and we are ready to head off for a City tour as part of a group of 48 most of whom did make it yesterday one way or another.

Belfast is a Victorian city and contains some impressive buildings. The City enjoyed huge prosperity during late Victoria times riding the benefits of the linen industry and then ship building with the construction of the White Star ocean liners among many others driving the rises in finances.

The subsequent history of the area was dominated by the religious alignments of the residents plus the steady decay of those two industries, even whilst we are in Belfast it is announced that once again that the Harland and Wolff holding company is going into administration, although the yard itself has orders for at least three warships so may well survive under new owners following a period of administration.

However the last 25 years have brought marked change. The Blair government’s greatest legacy is probably the Good Friday agreement which set forth a devolved coalition administration – both sides have to at least work together and the agreement allows the voters to eventually choose to join the rest of Ireland which since Brexit seems even more likely, particularly as the voter demographics have changed over recent years.

The tour opens with a visit to Stormont where, as part of the reforms and opening up, visitors now have access to the area immediately in front of the Parliament building as can be seen above. One matter which I find disappointing – as a child I was taken by my parents to see the front door of No 10. Now that is denied to the children of today and it is a shame that the openness in NI cannot be reflected in London.

Our journey around the City continues with the former shipyards which have seen the construction of a new Arena, the Titanic museum, conversion of the former paint shops into film studios responsible (amongst much else) for Game of Thrones and so on.

Alongside this new the old has been revitalised. We are staying the Cathedral Quarter and even on a Monday night there is music emanating from at least one bar close by – and other bars on other nights as if someone has planned a rota on different evenings. There are many magnificent Victorian buildings. Within City Hall there is a series of displays telling the history of the City, plus a café, although the quality of scones is not as good as the exhibits.

Titanic Museum

The afternoon is dedicated to the Titanic Museum telling her history through construction, sailing, destruction, discovery and how to have enough lifeboats for those on board. They try hard to convey the shipyard during construction using a “ride” which was no doubt the subject of much planning – but little can convey the reality and I am not sure it succeeds. Such environments no longer really exist and indeed that way working no longer exists.

Albert Memorial

Being a Victorian City also meant Albert and the Albert Clock is the local memorial to him. It does in fact lean slightly – it is not just my photography!

Dinner this evening is at Taylor and Clay – a steak restaurant along from where we are staying and we have an excellent steak each. The chateaubriand were all large cuts and would need three or four people to do justice to them but the steaks were all excellently cooked and it was a simple walk back via the Albert Clock to our hotel.

Queen Anne 31.8.24

1 September 2024 / admin

DFDS Cross Channel Ferry

Today we are at sea – all day with docking in Southampton due in the early hours of Sunday morning. If anything looking out of the windows at time are progress not only seems glacial – more like non-existent. I assume we are moving forwards but we really are moving very gingerly – the average will be under 10 knots for this journey.

To ensure we are au fait with the dining options we go to the Artisans Foodhall for breakfast – it is of course simply a renamed buffet and here I sense a real design problem. The counters are set high and plates are all passed over it with all food being served by the chefs. Fine – except that the plates are pretty warm and we have seen a lot of people this week on board using walkers and wheelchairs who simply cannot reach that high (and can probably not so easily manage a hot plate). I assume the high level design emanates post-covid – but to me it feels like a step backwards. However I do get both black and white pudding – which is rare anywhere else – so well done Cunard.

White Cliffs Dover

Regrettably the fine weather has vanished and it is grey and overcast outside; if it were not for the excessive number of windmills on the various horizons it is similar to being mid-Pacific – although as the day progresses we get views of coast lines and indeed intermittent 4G signals enabling a partial football score – until the signal is lost!

We have not previously visited the Observation Deck so head up there – it is open air and as we soon find it is the only location onboard where smoking is permitted – well there has to be somewhere! We do some reading but head elsewhere in favour of fresh air after a while. I think we have seen most of the ship on our various peregrinations around the boat. We did plan a burger on the Pavilion Deck – which is the main pool area – but it is both busy and noisy so decide on a light lunch up in the Grills restaurant.

Appealing activities were limited this morning but we have a busy afternoon. Jackie does her packing and then heads off to Bingo. I make use of the balcony – the seats are comfortable and I can listen to some podcasts and also observe the white cliffs of Dover as we are proceeding (still pretty slowly) along past Dover and Folkestone – with cross channel ferries crossing in front of us at one stage.

I then attend to some of my packing and then I attempt to find out progress in Brentford of the Southampton team – once we go 1-0 down I am fed up and almost glad that we lose the signal. I then join Jackie for some music in the Queen’s Room before attending most of the evening performance in the Royal Court theatre – but it is not as enthralling as “Brief Encounter” so depart for dinner.

Come Sunday morning we are docked and an early breakfast beckons before we can disembark, find our suitcases and car and return home.

Queen Anne 30.8.24

31 August 2024 / admin

Cube Houses Rotterdam

We remain moored in Rotterdam and following breakfast we take the free shuttle bus which is running from outside the cruise terminal to the Markthall. Shuttle buses are running about every 15 minutes and take about 15 minutes with driver commentary on the surroundings. He refers extensively to “livings” – flats or apartments. The Erasmus bridge is one way for cars and buses so we take a slightly longer route across a couple of other bridges to reach our destination.

Even so we had no need to start this early as the Market does not open until 10 so we have time to look at the outside of the Kubuis houses – surely the result of a joke rather than a serious design approach plus a building with all the pipework on the exterior which houses the library (and a Starbucks).

Surfing in the Street Rotterdam

We walk through the Markthall stopping to buy some local cheese and then in the direction of the main shopping area just to see some of the City. In a small cut off the city has placed some water and a wave machine and the local surfers are all practicing their craft on this resource in the bright sun which we have today. Not quite a beach – but earlier the bus driver had pointed out another end of a waterway where a beach is being created in a former port area with diggers and so on at work spreading sand – a little late for this summer but it should be ready for next year!

We wander through the City and then back over the Erasmus bridge to Queen Anne – and soon enough as it is quite warm walking through the city today.

Queen Anne Rotterdam

One delight of Cunard is of course afternoon tea and so to the Queen’s Room at 3 for tea. Sandwiches, cakes and the obligatory scone, jam first and cream to go with the tea all delivered with silver service. Excellent and as it is later than lunchtime ideal for the late dinner we are planning after going to the Bright Lights Society!

Tonight is also gala night – so DJ and dress shirt are donned – the latter with more difficulty than anticipated as it seems I am no longer 16 1/2″ around the collar – doing up top buttons on my old shirts is proving distressing as it seems I have expanded. I do manage it eventually.

We take a drink up in the Commodore Club – deck 14 (there is no 13) forward with a view of the outside world and listen to some jazz before our 19:30 appointment at the Bright Light Society back down deck 2. When we get there we find that the performance tonight is cancelled due to illness – disappointing.

However we determine to simply advance dinner and go to the Queen’s Grill where as it is on the main menu we can have chateaubriand tonight. Another lovely piece of steak and so stomachs sated we retire earlier than planned.

Queen Anne casts off in the middle of the night and commences the return journey to Southampton.

Queen Anne 29.8.24

30 August 2024 / admin

Queen Anne Staircase

As breakfast serving time feels early, especially given the lost hour, we have ordered room service with an omelette and accompaniments which gets the day off to a very solid start. Nicely delivered and a little touch of luxury. We have a decent size couch for two, a rotating single chair and a very solid table. Outside on the balcony are two comfortable loungers and another smaller table.

Various sounds and noises disrupted sleep last night, in particular when I think the engines were working harder than they do throughout most of the cruise – I suspect we were given a specific period to traverse the narrowest section of the English Channel between Dover and Calais. Otherwise given the sailing times on this holiday we are progressing at fairly low speeds. Google reports that the distance is 221 nautical miles (254 land miles). Given that the outward sailing is around 20 hours in elapsed time we are doing little more than 10 knots – Queen Anne is capable of just over 20 knots which is slower than either MS Queen Elizabeth or MS Queen Victoria as a top speed.

Queen Anne Deck 11

Jackie wants to play bingo this morning which is in the Golden Lion, which is forward on deck 2. Once she is there I take myself up to the Terrace on Deck 11 to do some listening and some reading. There is some low level music playing on the Terrace but it is not too intrusive as I am using earphones. Given that the weather is looking good we decide, after taking a light bite in the Carinthia lounge – just to maximise our sampling of all outlets, to return to the Terrace. Notable aspect of our light bite was that the yolk of the egg was still slightly frozen! Although regrettably the sun disappears behind clouds whilst we proceed along many miles of industrial docklands as we head towards Rotterdam.

Eventually we reach our berth which is very conveniently located in the centre of the city, immediately adjacent to the Erasmus Bridge. We are adjacent to a terminal building and can see coaches parked alongside for those going on trips this afternoon. We are taking it easy and I manage to get a booking for the Bright Lights Society which is a second entertainment venue on board. This seems to have limited capacity and books up rapidly but I can get into the earlier session tomorrow evening – although I think I bag the last availability.

We dine in the Queens Grill tonight and then head to the Royal Court Theatre for a stage version of Noel Coward’s Brief Encounter. This stage version was devised by Emma Rice in 2007 and adds some additional detail around the lives of the supporting class plus an express train headed by U class 1638 which is based on the Bluebell so I assume the other trains projected at various points are also from filming at the Bluebell – all very clever. Although filmed in Carnforth station the setting is supposed to be somewhere in Southern England in the early thirties. The locomotive is currently stored awaiting a full overhaul – which will be expensive as it will need boiler and firebox repairs and new tyres.

Queen Anne 28.8.24

29 August 2024 / admin

Queen Anne Southampton

Embarcation for our cruise is Southampton ocean terminal and whilst we are half an hour early many others are well in front of us. We join short queue but soon a man is taking notes and then photos of the car, key handed over and we walk across to drop our main cases and head into the Ocean Terminal.

Check in is busy and passport dates are closely checked but we remain well within validity at the moment. They decide to retake our security photos with glasses on but the longest delay is the check at the ship, although I cause a delay as my watch has tripped the security gate as I forgot to take it off.

We are asked to also visit our muster station and have our passes scanned as a double check that we are on board and also know the location of our muster station. As the muster station is on stairway C, at the aft so having walked back we get scanned. Next we want the Queen’s Grill where we will be eating our meals so we take the lift up to level 10 which is the location of the Grill restaurants. Only to find that there is no entry from this direction – it is closed off – so we have to go down a floor, through the buffet restaurant (re-imagined as an “Artisans’ Foodhall”) to the mid-ships lift.

We head up in the lift to the Grill restaurants which will open at 1300 and after a drink we are positioned at a table behind a pillar and close to a serving station so the good lady wife is not at all happy and asks if we can be relocated, we shall see.

Lunch devoured we find our suite on deck seven which is towards the aft of the ship. Jackie’s case arrives and she unpacks and mine then appears quite a bit later. As ever I suspect we have both over packed.

Queen Anne remains stationary and we head up to deck 11 and the Grills terrace where we can sit in the sun for an hour or so, although it is cloudier than early and even spits with rain at one point.

Showing that the ship is new it is announced that the usual emergency sirens will be heard and we have to go to our muster station. Given our earlier visit this is a surprise! However shortly before the alarms are sounded the instruction to visit the muster station is counter-manded; obviously scripts are not up to date!

Queen Anne

Warning sirens sounded we commence sailing and head steadily down Southampton Water past Fawley and Netley and then we start heading eastwards towards the English Channel, turning as we get close to the Isle of Wight following the marker buoys.

Arriving back at the Grill restaurant for our dinner it is pleasing to hear that an alternative table has been found from which we can view the passing landscape on the port side, Gosport, Portsmouth, Spitbank Fort, distant Wittering and Pagham are all out there somewhere.

We each have excellent steaks for dinner.

Post dinner we visit the theatre but are not greatly taken by the entertainer so slip out and return to our suite for a drink and bed. We lose an hour tonight as we move to Rotterdam time ahead of our arrival there tomorrow afternoon.

Sleep is a little disturbed, hot, then cold, then hot again, odd noises and some strange notions. First night is often short of sleep.

Welshpool and Llanfair 29.6.24

30 June 2024 / admin

ZB.2 ‘Zillertal’ footplate

Following another excellent breakfast it is time to start our homeward journey. Having found the right way out of the hotel by decent roads yesterday I follow the same route today and then we head towards Llanfair Caerinion which is the base of the Welshpool and Llanfair Railway.

My last visit here was in 1978 with Geoff – and whilst parts of the railway have improved the gentle rolling scenery remains unchanged. Indeed the biggest improvements are at Welshpool where there is now a proper station building and facilities and an exhibition building which we do not have time to visit.

The staff are all very friendly and despite threatening rain we manage to stay dry. I was kindly invited onto the footplate of ZB.2 ‘Zillertal’ which is our locomotive today – by someone who was probably not born when I last visited. The highlight of the trip is the climb out of Welshpool on the return as the loco has to work hard ascending Golfa Bank. Traffic all appears end to end today – brief pauses at some of the intermediate stations do not seem to have any traffic.

ZB.2 ‘Zillertal’

Our onward journey is to Ettington Park near Stratford upon Avon which we have visited before. Aspects of the bar and drinks service are a little disappointing but the surroundings are very nice. On the way the M6 signs are being poorly managed causing delays and inconsistencies – I also get flashed but no penalty notice ever turned up.

Finally on the Sunday we head onwards to home.

Llangollen Railway & Meanderings 28.6.24

29 June 2024 / admin

Hellfire Pass

Jackie decides not to move far today and I set off first to drive around Lake Vyrnwy which takes 35 or 40 minutes. My next task is to find the way out without using that narrow little road we used on the inward journey and I find that the signposted route consists of fairly normal roads. Ignore the satnav folks!

My plans for today had originally been quite extensive – but given recent driving I know that the AA times simply are not possible and so visiting both the Talyllyn and Llangollen railways was going to be an almost impossible ask as the traffic simply does not travel fast enough (well to ensure I managed both trains and not wanting too long a day).

My first target is the Bwlch-y-Groes pass, also known as the Hellfire Pass with the uphill section from the south having historic uses as a test climb for new Austin cars before WWII. I find the route and I am pleased that I can see to near the summit and there is nothing coming the other way so I am able to reach the top without any problems.

The descent towards Bala is less spectacular – but had the drawbacks of numerous (well 5) vehicles coming the other way. For 4 of these I am the one to have to find space to pull over – the first being most threatening – a tractor with mowers mounted being wider than normal – but I actually find a pull off and can watch it advancing up the hillside and can stay well off the road until it has passed.

Regrettably the Bala Lake Railway is not operating today and so cannot be visited on this tour and must await a future visit.

When we visited the Llangollen Railway 10 years ago they told us they were on the brink of opening the line into Corwen but were then terminating at Carrog. So today I drive to Carrog to park and then do the journey over the now opened line into Corwen – where I eventually buy a ticket before returning. Buying a simple ticket is so difficult – nothing as simple as an Edmondson card ticket these days – I understand the till and computer records – but there was a queue and I missed the loco running around whilst waiting to be served. Annoying.

Carrog – 47+5

In common with other railways these days off peak services are noted as diesel hauled so I am somewhat surprised to find a long train hauled by a class 47 – I was expecting a small multiple unit. However the loadings seem to justify the length of train and the loco duly runs around the coaches to return me to Carrog and everyone else to Llangollen I assume.

I return by a slightly more direct route to Lake Vyrnwy – although not quite the route I had planned as I miss a turning at one point, but return much earlier than if I had tried my somewhat more complex outing today.

Vale of Rheidol 27.6.24

28 June 2024 / admin

No 7 VoR

We travel further down the coast this morning, again with the top down, to Aberystwyth and the terminus of the Vale of Rheidol railway. This has been transformed in recent years. Since my last visit (undocumented) a couple of years ago they have opened a museum which I wander around. There is a mixed collection of locomotives and other stock – at the time of my visit it includes the Dukedog from the Bluebell, a WHR Garratt plus other locos – but it is an interesting collection and well housed.

The floor is notable as it is made of small wooden blocks which are removable and it means that tracks can be laid to take rails which can then be any gauge allowing a huge and varied range of exhibits over the years – in a light and spacious environment. Externally there is a small segment from London Bridge which was moved here for preservation when the station was rebuilt. It is all a long way from the BR owned line I first visited in 1976.

Whilst the first part of the line remains unexciting further up the closed in nature was eased many years ago by some tree clearance and there are still some great views plus the hard work of the locomotive as it ascends the gradients and tight curves is very obvious as we wind up to Devil’s Bridge. Less has changed here – although far more exists than in 1976 – but then it is not long since my last visit.

On the return trip we have a discussion with other passengers who are relatively local residents as far as we can gather.

Our onward journey is to Lake Vyrnwy in mid-Wales and is uneventful until the sat nav decides to make use of a very narrow road with grass growing in the centre of the single track with not much in the way of passing places. We emerge to quite a major road and the hotel tells us that all the satnavs follow that route – whilst the road signs take a far better route as I will discover tomorrow.

Lake Vyrnwy

The hotel at Lake Vyrnwy has a high location overlooking the lake – which is in fact a reservoir – and faces west with the sun setting over the hills on the far side of the lake as we eat dinner. The main drawback is that it feels like a huge hike from our room to the reception and the dining room but even so I like it. It is very quiet and even though the hotel is busy the dining all seems to run smoothly.